clutch acting weird


18 replies to this topic
  • thatraptorguy

Posted September 28, 2009 - 07:34 PM

#1

have had this 07 wr450 for about a month now and i just really noticed that when its in gear and im cruising down a BIG hill on the road my bike actually slows down instead of coasting up to speed????feels like the clutch....and when the bikes not running but in gear and i pull in the clutch to move it its hard to move like somethings holding it back....but when its in gear at a stand still it dosent pull or anything....got me clueless:bonk:

  • eu001939

Posted September 28, 2009 - 10:46 PM

#2

Couple of possible causes:

-Not enough free play on the clutch cable. Check the clutch lever
-Change the oil
-Possible you have "burned" or even fused clutch plates. Drain the oil and check your plates for wear and tear, and replace them if necessary.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted September 29, 2009 - 08:12 AM

#3

Couple of possible causes:

-Not enough free play on the clutch cable. Check the clutch lever
-Change the oil
-Possible you have "burned" or even fused clutch plates. Drain the oil and check your plates for wear and tear, and replace them if necessary.


i have that same problem as well on my wr426f. i just put on a new lever on though so i may have adjusted it wrong. cant remeber how it was working before i switched the levers though so i dont now if it was an already existing problem. does yours seem to bump a little before it rolls in gear while the engine is off when you pull the clutch in and push it

  • diegox450

Posted September 29, 2009 - 08:20 AM

#4

It's totally normal to have drag while in gear, and trying to move the bike, with engine off.

With engine on, the oil layer at the clutch plates "un-stick" and that drag dissapears.

If you have too much drag, or problems to shift, you may have a worn cluth basket, causing the cluth to not fully disengage.

Also, you must have 5mm +/- of free play at the end of the lever. Not enough free play will cause the clutch to slip, while too much free play causes it to not fully disengage, causing shifting and drag problems.

I hope I explained well with my poor english...

Greetings, Diego

  • bakeyz426f

Posted September 29, 2009 - 08:25 AM

#5

It's totally normal to have drag while in gear, and trying to move the bike, with engine off.

With engine on, the oil layer at the clutch plates "un-stick" and that drag dissapears.

If you have too much drag, or problems to shift, you may have a worn cluth basket, causing the cluth to not fully disengage.

Also, you must have 5mm +/- of free play at the end of the lever. Not enough free play will cause the clutch to slip, while too much free play causes it to not fully disengage, causing shifting and drag problems.

I hope I explained well with my poor english...

Greetings, Diego


that info helps a bunch ill check my free play today

  • thatraptorguy

Posted September 29, 2009 - 06:00 PM

#6

im pretty sure my clutch is adjusted right atleast to the best of my knowledge....i just changed the oil for the first time since i traded for the bike and the oil wasnt the greatest lets say....is it common for the oil to have a pretty bad gassy smell and thin viscosity to it???seems like im gettin fuel in the gas

  • diegox450

Posted September 30, 2009 - 10:32 AM

#7

im pretty sure my clutch is adjusted right atleast to the best of my knowledge....i just changed the oil for the first time since i traded for the bike and the oil wasnt the greatest lets say....is it common for the oil to have a pretty bad gassy smell and thin viscosity to it???seems like im gettin fuel in the gas


Well, how much did you ride before changing oil? Wich oil are you using? I use Motul 5100 10W40, for temps between 0°C and 20°C, in my zone.

I use to change it after 4 rides or 500 kms. That gassy smell and thin visco could be too much kms on it. If you race the bike is nice to change it before every race.
Change your filter (if its the paper type) every other oil change. I don't like steel screen filters because the only way to clean it perfectly is using an ultrasonic cleaner (the same you use to clean fuel injectors).

Also take note of debris (metal chips or particles) caming from the used oil. It's normal in our bikes to have some small metal or fiber particles, but not a lot.

I forgot to mention that when the bike is cold is pretty normal to have lots of drag, even to the point of stalling the engine when you shift.

Greetings, Diego

  • bakeyz426f

Posted September 30, 2009 - 03:04 PM

#8

do most bikes have a clank or thud sound when shift into first gear for the first time? seems like my old bike did and so does my wr426f now. my clutch works fine while running and better when off while the engines warm. i was able to start the bike in gear with the clutch in also. when its cold its hard to move the bike in gear with the clutch in when the engines off. is this normal? could the oil im using be a problem? i used synthetic lucas motorcycle oil 20w 50. it is starting to get colder out now. should i go to 10w 40 or 10w30 in the winter?

  • thatraptorguy

Posted September 30, 2009 - 04:49 PM

#9

10w30......not sure if i would run that oil though....it matters if its made for wet clutches because otherwise regular car oil has friction modifiers that will ruin your clutches

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  • bakeyz426f

Posted September 30, 2009 - 04:53 PM

#10

it said motorcycle oil on it. how can i tell if its made for wet clutches? still have the bottle what would it say on it?

  • thatraptorguy

Posted September 30, 2009 - 04:58 PM

#11

if its said motorcyle oil you should be fine then

  • bakeyz426f

Posted September 30, 2009 - 05:52 PM

#12

ill switch to 10w 30 cause this stuff is pretty thick. it would be good in the summer though. it wasnt cheap really either about 9$ a quart. i just wired up a keyed ignition on my bike. ill need is a horn, mirror, turn signals, and a brake light to make it street legal.

  • diegox450

Posted October 01, 2009 - 09:09 AM

#13

do most bikes have a clank or thud sound when shift into first gear for the first time? seems like my old bike did and so does my wr426f now. my clutch works fine while running and better when off while the engines warm. i was able to start the bike in gear with the clutch in also. when its cold its hard to move the bike in gear with the clutch in when the engines off. is this normal? could the oil im using be a problem? i used synthetic lucas motorcycle oil 20w 50. it is starting to get colder out now. should i go to 10w 40 or 10w30 in the winter?


It's normal to have that sound. When my bike is cold it's impossible to start in gear with cluth in, and very difficult to move it. When hot I have no problem.

What temperature do you have in your place? I think 20W50 is a bit thick.... I use 10W40, with temps ranging from 0°C to 20°C...

If you make a search, you'll find lots of threads discussing wich oils we can use in our bikes.

If it said MOTORCYCLE OIL in the can, means it's designed for wet clutches. The problem is automotive oils have anti friction additives that attack the clutch of the bike, causing slipage and other problems. Motorcycle oils doesn't have them.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted October 01, 2009 - 09:37 AM

#14

its about 40 degrees farenheight and getting colder

  • diegox450

Posted October 01, 2009 - 03:50 PM

#15

10W30 or 10W40 will be fine

  • brent665

Posted March 19, 2010 - 10:49 AM

#16

My bike used to operate just like the other descriptions above - tight when cold but fine when warm. Now I'm finding it VERY difficult to pull the clutch lever even when it's warm. In fact, it seems like it gets worse as it gets hotter. Thought I was just extremely weak until a buddy took it for a spin and he made a comment. His clutch has a very easy pull. Could it be the cable, plates. clutch basket, ???

  • eu001939

Posted March 20, 2010 - 06:27 AM

#17

Had a Bultaco in the old days where the clutch required 2 hands to pull :-)

Turned out to be the cable which wasn't greased enough. The bike had not been driven for a couple of years and the grease inside the cable had dried up.

Also, the routing of the cable from lever to clutch pull lever was wrong. This resulted in a too tight turn on the cable, making it harder to pull. When the engine warms up, so does the cable, and it becomes a bit smoother to operate.

Suggest you check out the whole cable assembly. Disconnect it on both ends, try pulling it with pliers to check if it moves smoothly.

If that's not it, then the problem is on the pull lever assembly or the clutch plates need replacing...

PS: Bultaco was a brand of Spanish built MX and enduro bikes very popular in the 70's. They went bankrupt somewhere in the 80's I think. Great bike, 370cc 2-stroke, way too much power (I was 14), and waaaay too heavy...

  • tek9tim

Posted March 20, 2010 - 12:07 PM

#18

My bike used to operate just like the other descriptions above - tight when cold but fine when warm. Now I'm finding it VERY difficult to pull the clutch lever even when it's warm. In fact, it seems like it gets worse as it gets hotter. Thought I was just extremely weak until a buddy took it for a spin and he made a comment. His clutch has a very easy pull. Could it be the cable, plates. clutch basket, ???


ALL bikes act like the other descriptions above. :thumbsup: Must have been newbies or something.

  • brent665

Posted March 22, 2010 - 08:51 AM

#19

Thanks eu001939. The cable is a good place to start troubleshooting and the cheapest thing to fix if necessary. The routing should be fine since that hasn't changed but I'll double check that too.

My dad used to have a Bultaco when I was growing up. Fond memories.




 
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