how do i install a ignition key on my wr426f??
Posted September 29, 2009 - 02:01 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:05 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:08 PM
2. If you are going to use heat shrink tubing instead of electrical tape, you need to be able to slip the heat shrink tubing over the wires once the soldering is completed. If you can remove the boots on the end of the connectors, you MAY be able to get the heat shrink tubing over the connectors and covering the solder joint. You need to cut the heat shrink tubing so that it does not obstruct the connector boots, and it covers ALL of the solder joint & bare wire, and preferably so that it extends at least 1/2" past any bare wire or solder. Wait for the solder joint to cool COMPLETELY BEFORE you attempt to slip the heat shrink tubing on, or it will shrink from the heat of the wire/connector before you can get it over the joint. Once you have it in place, use a match, or a lighter, or your soldering iron, or a heat gun to heat the tubing so it shrinks around the wires and the joint.
3. Strip about as much insulation off the end of your new wire as you have stripped off of your existing wires. Lay your new wire right next to, and parallel with the wire that goes TOWARD your kill switch. Then, wrap the bare part of the new wire around one of your existing bare wires. You ALWAYS make a good, clean, mechanical connection between the wires BEFORE you solder.
4. Heat your soldering iron up and "Tin" it by lightly allowing some solder to melt onto the bare tip covering all of the bare tip with a thin layer solder, then gently wipe off the excess solder from the tip with a wet cloth or sponge. Get in the habit of doing this before every solder joint and before you put the iron away and it will be easier to solder and the tip will last longer.
5. Hold the tip of the soldering iron against the bottom side of one of your wire joints.
6. Briefly touch the solder to both the iron tip and the bare wire where they are touching to help speed up the heat transfer.
7. Then, feed the solder onto the top of the wires directly above the iron tip. Once the wire gets hot enough to melt the solder, it should flow onto all of the bare wire. If any of the joint is still bare, touch it with the solder and it should quickly cover it. The smaller the diameter of the solder, the quicker it will melt and flow.
(By the way, the Radio Shack kit I listed in Post #19 includes the correct iron and solder as well as an instruction book on soldering.)
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:16 PM
PLEASE go back and read my previous posts.
i soldered 1 strip of 18 gauge wire to those two wires. i went to look at the switch i have and it has 4 wires comming out of it. does this mean it will not work? hope it will because i already have soldered. there is a red , black, green, and a black and white wire comming from my switch.
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:19 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:33 PM
should i melt off the solder i have on the wires and do it over or what?its already soldered to the wires. will it not conduct current? ...
Without the rosin-core, it depends on how clean the wires were before you soldered them. (varnish, corrosion, grease, oil from your skin, etc.) You may have a perfectly fine joint, or you may have poor adhesion from the solder. A poor joint could cause connection issues and/or could start corroding down the road. A poor connection means that you may not be able to kill the engine, or you may be able to start the bike without the key.
...also do i just pick 2 wires from the switch and use them because it has four wires?
Answered in detail in one of my previous posts.
Posted September 29, 2009 - 03:39 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 05:41 PM
let me know if any one has any ideas.
Posted September 29, 2009 - 06:14 PM
Unplug the two wires that now go to the kill switch and to the new keyed switch. If there are any problems, at all, related to these two items, unplugging them will remove them from the circuit.
well i finished all the work and it wont start now! i put the tank back on and i dont think thats the problem. any reason it wouldnt start because of what ive done? it has commpression and sounds like its almost about to start when i kick it. also my clutch isnt engauging at all right now for some reason. i hope this things starts i havent even got to go ridding yet. it looks like im going to be taking a trip to the dealer. this sucks!!!
let me know if any one has any ideas.
You will need to shut off the gas or put it in gear and ease the clutch out with the brakes on to kill it since you won't have a kill switch.
Posted September 29, 2009 - 06:21 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 06:25 PM
If you unplug them and determine that the problem is not with your kill switch, you'll have to solder the wires back together.
Post a clear picture of your completed wiring where it hooks to your old kill switch wires.
Posted September 29, 2009 - 06:56 PM
Posted September 29, 2009 - 08:33 PM
The bullet connectors are right by the spot where you stripped the wires. Are you sure you're not trolling, here?
i cut the wires because i didnt see a disconnect. i think they go too the carb. the bike started right up first kick after i cut the wires. what do you think i did wrong? could the switch be bad?
Posted September 29, 2009 - 08:39 PM
Posted September 30, 2009 - 03:08 PM
Posted September 30, 2009 - 03:46 PM
Yes, as long as they are clean and are making a good mechanical connection.
im going to check the solders and solder my wires back tonight and see if i can get it to work. will it work if i twist the wires to connect them and check to see if it starts and then solder them?
Posted September 30, 2009 - 04:37 PM
Posted September 30, 2009 - 04:50 PM
Posted September 30, 2009 - 05:50 PM
Congratulations, you're now an electrician!
well i twisted everything up and it works!! thanks alot for all your help. im going to go solder them and tape everything up.