A little background info on the problem.

The last two times i rode my bike to work(10miles) I noticed my battery was extra weak. I typically have my bike hooked up to a battery tender at night and I have a kickstarter on it and rarely use the Estart. When putting on my turn signals my gauge would go out and all bulbs were very dim. Made it home and my battery was at 8v! Threw it on the battery tender over night. 12.8v before I left in the morning. 11.5v when I was hoping on my bike to go home for lunch. 9v when i got home. Obviously not charging.

Bike is an 02 S with 16k on the odo.

After a few test(and a recharged battery) its apparent that the battery is not charging and all signs point to the reg/rec but i have a question about the stator. With the bike running at idle I get the same output from each "leg" of the stator, about 25 VAC. This goes up with engine rpm and seems to be between 50-70 VAC at 3-4krpms. BUT each leg failed the continuity with ground test, or i should say each had continuity with ground. here is an excerpt from the bronco/noble faq

"Motor off: check each yellow to ground. (The wires from the stator coils not the RR. We will check that later) No continuity is good, any continuity is bad."


and just as an fyi I did the free power mod a few years back, my bike is still running the stock flywheel.

So, is the stator part of the problem?

Doh, just wanted to double check. Ive got a moose one on the way, seemed to get good reviews here.

Thanks

So much for on the way. They are back ordered everywhere:(

electrosport.com

Electrosport.com

Stator Suzuki DR-Z400

Part Number: ESG180
Price: $139.00

TEMPORARILY SOLD OUT

Do not know anything about these but says available , might be worth checking into if you dont want to wait.

http://www.rmstator....rz_400/4221.htm

yeah justin at the TT store said they are all the same just with different names. so the moose unit from the TT store is the electrosport unit. 10/23 is the expected date.

I only have a short commute, i could ride it as a total loss system and just hook up my battery to a charger at work:) I do have a kick starter on the ole S:)

DLConaDRZ said:

thanks for the link. Looks like they are in canada. Odd that their stator is the same price as the others:).

maybe i should try to fix mine :D

I see all these stator failures here and it makes me wonder exactly what makes them fail and how come some seem to go forever? Any info would be appreciated so I can stretch mine out as long as possible. I promise I will do my loctite fix on it in the next month or two....I have 11,400+ miles right now.

I ride mine everyday , had to wait a week for the paycheck and another week for the part but I was only going 12 miles to work and twelve miles back , every evening when I came home it went on a battery tender till it was fully charged ..I read in here somewhere that could be bad for the batteries lifespan but i used the old battery so wasnt worried about it ..Not sure if it can damage anything else.
Heres what the stator looked like when I opened it up to put in the moose

post number 1, and I am 0 for 1.

Unplug your headlight and rotate the plug so the black ground wire which is normally on the left side faces the top. You will have light on the low beam position, and high will turn off the light saving your battery.

dirtwiz said:

Here are four reasons

1
2
3
4: Electrical / mechanical assembles fail, manufacturing blip, installation mistake, things fail.

yeah ... i fitted a new moose unit @ 20000 klm just to be safe

When i pulled mine apart it looked great, not like all these pics of burnt ones. Ill snap a pic tonight. But when running tests each yellow had continuity with ground. It still appeared to putting out VAC but i get nothing at the battery or after the regulator. The regulator might be my problem but since the stator failed the continuity test its the first to get replaced.

The first stator on my '03 KLX400R lasted until last fall with over 40,000 miles. It was faster and cheaper to re-wire the OEM than to try to find a new one in Mexico where I live. I do keep the oil fresh and I don't ride as hard as most probably, never raced the bike or maybe I just got a good one. They don't all crap out the first year.

shift1313 said:

FYI so you guys know the Rm Stator RMESG180 is our stator as well which is the same as the Moose. They buy directly from us.

Best Regards,

Trent Kirby
Technical Sales Representative
Electrosport Industries
3803 Oceanic Dr Suite 201
Oceanside Ca 92056
760-842-8300 x1
760-842-8306 fax
www.Electrosport.com

I dont remember the exact mileage mine went out , somewhere after 13,000 .

Well mine is an 02 with 16k. I ride almost every day i just dont have far to go most days. Bike sees mostly commuting duty but weekend back roads or trails(some jumping). I change oil every 2k. I did the free power mod probably 5k miles ago and i think im on my third battery. Bike stays hooked up to a battery tender most nights.

i snapped some pics tonight and i also have an interesting idea.

Here is a close up of my stator.



Let me also say this I have other project bikes and one im currently doing im fabbing up some custom charging system stuff so I had a bunch of things laying around. One of those happened to be most of a polaris pheonix 200 engine. Just for kicks i grabbed the stator out of curiosity. Both are oil bath units and surprisingly close. Only difference physically i could see are the green stops on the windings for the polaris unit are a little taller.









Im thinking tomorrow night about playing around with it a bit more. Obviously I wouldnt use the polaris hall effect sensor but I want to see if this will actually work out. Ive already got one on order so it cant hurt to play in the mean time right :) Even though the polaris unit looks larger its not. Anyone have a good reason for me not to give it a shot?