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Homemade loading ramp


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Or if you're not a Hobbit, you just step up into the bed of the truck in one smooth stride as the bike clears the top of the ramp.

I'm beginning to think chickenhauler is a giant. Or hispanic with a ridiculously lowered truck and 10" skateboard tires :busted: either way...

I'm either not coordinated enough, or too short, to load my bike as easily as you say. (In a real truck that is)

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I'm beginning to think chickenhauler is a giant. Or hispanic with a ridiculously lowered truck and 10" skateboard tires :busted: either way...

I'm either not coordinated enough, or too short, to load my bike as easily as you say. (In a real truck that is)

I'm 6-2, and my truck is a half ton Chevy, stock suspension, no lift or lowering.

Hispanic? Not even close-whiter than rice here-Polish, Swede, Irish and German ancestors.

I can do that with my Toyota Tacoma, but not with my jacked up Dakota...I actually am looking around for a 8' ramp for that (little) beast.

Hahaha....he said Hobbit....

We tease my wife she's a hobbit-she's a full foot shorter than I am-even more so when I'm all dressed up and wearing my cowboy boots.

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Here is the exact opposite of cheap, but i thought I'd share.

99900.gif

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99900

Motorcycle Lift Ramp

Easily load even large motorcycles into the back of a truck single handedly.

* Max. capacity: 1000 lbs.

* Installs or removes in minutes

* Push button remote control

* Two ramps can fit into a truck bed

Overall length: 14 ft. 10-5/8"

ITEM 99900-2VGA

$599.99

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Loading ramp?

That looks like you could safely use it as a launch pad for a utility quad.

Looks nice. Heavy?

Not really heavy , it's aluminum. That's why I put casters on it, just roll it out and flip it up. Not bad for $30.00. Plus I overkill everything I build.

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Buy a Ramp top kit and use a 2x8 or 2x10. I use two as I walk up the other but if you wanted to do it on the cheep you could just buy the single. Put a miter on the bottom to decrease the lip when it sits on the ground.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_44403_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

G16RAMTP.JPG

exactly what I use. I have a piece of Velcro on the ramp and my tailgate. It works really well.

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Not really heavy , it's aluminum. That's why I put casters on it, just roll it out and flip it up. Not bad for $30.00. Plus I overkill everything I build.
Yeah, but it's about $200 in aluminum at today's prices, if not more.

I also overbuild everything. I'd rather use an extra half a gallon of gasoline toting the 10 extra pounds around for the life of the trailer than have it fail. #1 if it were to fail, I've gotta lift what ever back on the trailer, it's no fun trying to "squat" a GPZ550 (yup, done it). #2 it's likely to break something a whole lot more expensive when it fails. That "whole lot more expensive" could be me. Not worth it.

The ramp I posted is 45X45" (I would have liked bigger, but that's what I had space for. It's 2X2X1/8" angle iron, there are four supports along the width of the ramp. I probably could have done three, or 2X2 on the outside and 1X1 on the inside.

To further beef things up, the aluminum railing on the outside is also 1/8"X1-1/8" C-channel. Not a huge structural increase, but every little bit helps. Going to 1/4" thick steel would just be ridiculous.

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