I just relocated my battery, Nothin' new here, I just read old threads and basically did what everyone else did. Used the XR 600 side cover from XR's only (had to cut a little from the side to fit the seat strap).

I drilled about 10 holes (3/4") in the remaining top of the air box in front of the battery and the section on the side. You can't really see it in these pics, but they're under there. So far, it's plenty of air for piggy to breathe, no problems at all, running great. Used the CRF 450X (YTZ7S) battery and i think it cranks better then the stocker.




Wrapped the battery in some foam for a tight fit, plenty of room to get the air filter out, just gotta grab it from the bottom and slide it out.




No more black suitcase hanging off the side and the bike feels much better because the weight is centered.










Here is the thread i got all of my info, thanks to all who posted up here. This is an inexpensive mod to do to the L and makes it much nicer!!

http://www.thumperta...light=rascal560

Nice work - looks righteous!

good job!!

Thanks dudes

Any noticeable difference in power characteristics since the airbox now has the battery partially in it?

looks gud...u may want to put sum heat shrink on the battery lead(red wire/buss bar) to the starter relay...i did :smirk:

also make sure the wiring where it crosses over the frame isn't get'n pinched by the seat...i routed my wires under the frame. :thumbsup:


:cheers:

Kenzo said:

Thanks, I'll do that on the red wire.

I cut my seat just a little so the seat doesn't pinch them, but going under the frame would be the best. May have to go back and do that.

Bibleman said:

No power loss that I can feel at all. Drilled about 10 holes on the top front and top side section of the box and it's fine.

Slight Hijack: I am doing this mod currently, the battery box and bracket weigh 3.2 lbs, add in the decreased battery weight of the 450X battery 2.3 lbs, and 5.5 lbs gone! and better looking too.

So the mod intells just relocation and remounting. So I need the battery, side panel, and some foam, and heat gun to re-shape the air box right. There is no wire splicing or anything.

no wire splicing, just have to re-route. You can go under the frame by loosening the airbox, but I didn't do that yet. I've had no problems.

I cut a little section out of my seat to allow for some extra wire over the frame. You'll see what you need to do once you get into it. It's not hard, but just takes some trial and error. There are several good threads to help you out on this board.

Very nice job indeed and where I am heading during my USD fork swap. Even found a guy who does the triple CNC with all the key and mounting holes.

Heck, if going through all that I am going to cut my wires down too. Possibly use weatherpack plugs since I am cutting wires anyway!