HELP PLEASE! 1995 RM250 motor on a 1998 RM250 Possible?


13 replies to this topic
  • dadsrm250

Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:02 AM

#1

Hi all, I am new to here and need help fast. I have a 1998 RM 250 with a blown water pump and milky oil. I have the motor out and started to break down the motor and holy crap, it is involved more than I thought. In the interest of saving time, I have a chance to get a 1995 (J114) motor for a good price but mine calls for a (J115). Besides the obvious, will the 1995 bottom end 1. work with my existing electric 2. will my cylinder and head work 3. will the motor mounts align? Thanks in advance for your help.

Joe

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  • ghrocketman

Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:22 AM

#2

I have a 1994 RM 250 that I ride quite regularly and am familiar with the 1993-1995 series engines and I don't think anything will bolt from them to the 1996-1999 engines. Cylinders, bottom ends, heads, and mounting points are ALL different. It may be possible to swap the entire 1995 engine into your 1998 frame, but then you would still have to custom fabricate mounting points, pipe routing, airbox, etc. It would be a MAJOR headache probably costing you MORE in the long run than just fixing your 1998 powerplant properly.

  • dadsrm250

Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:02 AM

#3

You can always hope. With that said, is there anywhere I can get a good bottom end for my 1998 RM 250?

  • zig06

Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:23 AM

#4

There is no way that a '98 cylinder will fit a '95 bottom end ~ unless you have a welder a machine shop and lot's of free time.

You really are better off just fixing your engine. The milky trans oil is just a sign that your water pump seal is shot, and that's an easy fix. You do not even have to pull the motor, just the left side engine cover.

Did the pump actually explode? Or is it just leaking coolant into the transmission? If it's just leaking then replace the seal and you'll be back in the dirt in less than an hour.

  • dadsrm250

Posted 18 September 2009 - 10:41 AM

#5

I was just following the book. It said I had to split the case because the shaft was in both sides. Is there an easier way?

  • Vankaye

Posted 18 September 2009 - 02:48 PM

#6

Yes, you'll need to split the case to change the pump or the seal. Might-as-well do them both while your in there. Crank seals too.

You will need some specialty tools to get the job done... They will cost you about the same as having a mechanic do the job for you. The upside is you'll learn enough to not need a mechanic ever again!!

  • hefe055

Posted 18 September 2009 - 08:27 PM

#7

Yea I'm still baffled as to why Suzuki put the waterpump inside the cases on those 96-00 bikes.....the seals are a regularily replaced item makes no sense you'd not have easy access to it. It would be like not having a removable clutch cover....

  • Dante04SRT

Posted 19 September 2009 - 05:41 AM

#8

I replaced all the seals in my cases on my 98 recently. First thing I will tell you is ONLY use OEM seals/gaskets on these bikes. I bought a complete gasket set and a complete seal set and wound up replacing them all again with an OEM set. The aftermarket stuff fit/sealed like junk.

You've got to take the motor out anyway to swap them; instead - Take the 98 motor out, take off the covers and clutch, cylinder, and then split the cases. To change the seal you need a pair of snap ring pliers. Its easy. It really truly looks complicated, but after having done it once now, it wouldn't be THAT bad to do again - Its a dumb design, but not impossible.

[edit] Oh yeah, I got my OEM seals/gaskets from my dealer, a la carte. I paid about $77 for all the seals, and gaskets needed to get the thing back together. That was LESS than buying a crappy aftermarket seal kit and a crappy aftermarket gasket kit. I just went through the fiches that are available for the bike and got the OEM part numbers that way.

  • dadsrm250

Posted 19 September 2009 - 06:48 PM

#9

How about the "Suzuki" wrenches needed for the clutch basket and stator nut? I have tried everything. I would hate to get this far to only take it in to get done. Any ideas?

  • Dante04SRT

Posted 19 September 2009 - 06:51 PM

#10

How about the "Suzuki" wrenches needed for the clutch basket and stator nut? I have tried everything. I would hate to get this far to only take it in to get done. Any ideas?


Got air tools available? I just used an impact in reverse to get mine off. Worked like a charm.

  • dadsrm250

Posted 20 September 2009 - 06:20 PM

#11

OK, I am on board. I can get air tools but I am having an issue hoding the clutch basket (already broke one post off) and the cover on the other side. How does an air tool break the nut loose? I am up for anything. Thanks.

  • zig06

Posted 21 September 2009 - 09:59 AM

#12

Wow, I never realized that replacing a water pump seal on the '96 to 2000 RM250's was such a pain.

Moton Pro (and some others) sell a clutch hub tool that looks like a big set of vise grips. It's designed to grab the hub so you can take the nut off with an air wrench or a simple ratchet. It also works great when it's time to install the nut and torque it down. Any cycle shop should have one, or you can order one from the T store.

  • Dante04SRT

Posted 21 September 2009 - 11:41 AM

#13

I can't remember exactly what we used on mine, but I believe we just used a long wrench in between the teeth of the basket - With the air tools, it was very easy to remove.

  • zig06

Posted 21 September 2009 - 06:10 PM

#14

You only need this tool to remove the clutch hub.

Posted Image

http://www.motionpro...partno/08-0008/




 
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