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flywheel removal help


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Yes tighten the puller so that is pushes against the crank and pulls the flywheel off. The outer part of the puller threads into the flywheel and pulls, while the inner part pushes against the crank.....am I right? I think that is how it works. I have a WR so it's a little different but that is usually how it works on motocross bikes

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got it off. what i was doing wrong was just trying to torque it loose instead of smacking the rachet with a hammer to break it loose. thanks for your help. now i got the engine off and im waiting on parts. should i split the cases before the parts arrive or just wait?

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Really it is your choice. But, if you don't have the room to set everything in order as you take it apart, I would leave it together until you are ready.

One advantage of taking it apart now, is that you can inspect the internals and get other parts you need while waiting for the parts you ordered.

Make certain that you have a lot of ziplock bags and you tag and bag everything as it comes apart. It will save you some serious time when putting it all back together (now where did I put the clutch springs?????).

By the way, have you downloaded a service manual for your bike yet?

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Oh the other side......those two gears run the balance shaft. Again only replace if worn or damaged. Check out the splines on the inside of the the gears and also on the crank and balance shaft. They will most likely be fine with no wear, but always check.

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no i have the yamaha one that came with the bike. do i need to repace the gear drive that goes on the crank after the bearings, part number 8 in the crank and piston chart? also do i need to buy anything for the balence gear shaft?

You really should get one of the complete service manuals that are free to download.

Try going here "http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php" and downloading the service manual for your bike. I know that it is available.

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If you are taking the complete engine down to the cases, buy new lock washers for the clutch, the counterbalance gears, and the idler (between the clutch and crankshaft gears). Get new seals for the shift rod, clutch lever, kick start and output (counter shaft sprocket) shaft. I would also recommend getting new o-rings for the lower oil lines, mine started leaking after removing the lines two different times. I just received all of my bearings and seals yesterday, so I am starting the reassembly (again) of my semi-trusty steed in earnest tonight.

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If the cylinder has plenty of cross hatching you don't "have" to hone it. I used a scotch brite pad with some ATF to clean mine up and get the glaze off as my cyl had lots of crosshatching there. Worked good for me, also Eric Gorr recomends this method. Most will say you have to hone no matter what. To each his own

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