Darn.. Kinda got the wrong clutch cover here.. Anyone wanna swap?


1 reply to this topic
  • cjard

Posted August 28, 2009 - 08:36 AM

#1

I bought a clutch cover from a 2000 WR400 expecting that it would fit my 98 but it's slightly larger and some of the screw holes don't line up. (5JG vs 5BE)

I've asked a LOT of breakers, and scoured ebay for several weeks but not found anything.

Has anyone run into this before and come up with a novel solution?
Can anyone suggest a way of modifying it to fit?
Alternately, have you bought some kind of spangly new racing cover for your WR400 and have an old one to get rid of?
Have you any ideas where I can get one for a reasonable price (maybe you were at a breakers recently and saw one) ?

Right now I'm thinking that making an adapter plate might be easiest; there's a company locally that can cut a steel plate if I draw it up, or maybe modifying the one I have with some epoxy round the screw holes that need to be moved (only a little) and then drilling them out.. I'd cut the plate and move the casting if I knew I could get it welded but the local fabricators don't have any mg-alloy rods :/

Thanks in advance for any thoughts

:ride:

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  • cjard

Posted September 20, 2009 - 01:01 AM

#2

Part is no longer swappable; I've modified it to fit my 98 WR 400. If anyone else needs to do the same:


File a bit off the outer rim nead the oil pump (only a bit!)

For the bolt in the 4 and 7 oclock positions, ream the holes out a little on the cover and use a grinder to grind the threads off the bolt under the head, for a distance equal to the thickness of the cover where the bolt goes through

For the bolts in 9 and 10 oclock, I drilled the bolt hole out completely, removing the inner rim, also drilled some small holes next to it and wound small self tapping screws through from the outside. I put duct tape across the hole on both sides (imagine the red box bellow is a strip of duct tape), so that a "container" was formed, and filled the space with epoxy adhesive (any oil resistant setting compound will be ok). After it set, I radiused it out with an angle grinder (note: epoxy is nasty to breathe) so it would foul the clutch, and re-drilled the holes suitable for the existing case. I cut some washers to take up the space on the outer edge of the bolt (because the bolt head was pressing on the sloping section of the dish) and ensured that it was metal being compressed by the bolt, not resin

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For the bolt at 5 oclock, my case here had been damaged and i'd had it welded so I was able to drill and tap a new hole in the engine casing, moving it out a few mm..




 
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