Got my jet kit and AIS removal should be here today


47 replies to this topic
  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 11:28 AM

#21

it didn't come with a gasket for the block off plate... but when i removed the hose mount it had a little metal gasket ... i didn't put it back on....
but its easy enough to get back off in the state the bike is in right now.... so if anyone knows please chime in

  • erickdj

Posted August 27, 2009 - 11:33 AM

#22

it didn't come with a gasket for the block off plate... but when i removed the hose mount it had a little metal gasket ... i didn't put it back on....
but its easy enough to get back off in the state the bike is in right now.... so if anyone knows please chime in


I haven't removed the AIS on my bike, but I'd use the gasket just to be safe.

  • CanadianWR450

Posted August 27, 2009 - 01:05 PM

#23

You know, every time I read these threads on jetting/working on the aluminium frame bikes, I REALLY like my 04 more and more.......:) :lol: :ride:

  • erickdj

Posted August 27, 2009 - 01:27 PM

#24

You know, every time I read these threads on jetting/working on the aluminium frame bikes, I REALLY like my 04 more and more.......:) :lol: :ride:


Luckily, it's not all that bad on the new bikes. Gives you a good excuse to drink a 6-pack of beer or whatever you like in the garage while getting to know your bike better. Once you get the jetting where it needs to be, you really don't need to touch it again, set it and forget it. I did it to my 07 more than two years ago, and haven't touched the carb again, ever. I do, however, enjoy the benefits of the newer bike EVERY time I use it.

  • ohioryder

Posted August 27, 2009 - 01:32 PM

#25

Panaman, what part of ohio are you in? I have done my carb and its fairly simple. I am in the Akron/Canton area and if you are close I could help if you need it or tools.

  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 04:12 PM

#26

I'm in Delaware, so probably a little far...

one thing i just found out is that the JD Jet kit doesn't come with leak jets...
For 75 bucks it should come with a blow up doll

also I am torn between 2 jetting specs......
which one are you running ohioryder?

60 to 75 degrees: 168 main, JD Blue #3 or JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.5 turns, 70 starter jet, #40 leak jet
75 to 90 degrees: 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #50 leak jet

  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 04:20 PM

#27

Ok, i am starting to think that the stock leak jet is a 50 and the one in the GYTR kit is a 40

  • William1

Posted August 27, 2009 - 04:23 PM

#28

165 main
Red needle, clip 3
48 or 45 pilot (you'll have to test to figure out which, jet change on the bike)
Start with 2 turns on the fuel screw
68 starter
#40 leak jet, thick oring

After you put the carb on the engine but before you put the shock back on, set the fuel tank back on the bike and connect the fuel line. Looking in the carb from the airbox side. Check the AP squirt timing, when you nail the throttle, you want the swquirt to just miss the slide. The screw with the spring (where you installed the oring, tighen it 1/4 increments till the squirt just missses the slide. Then continue with putting everything back. When testing the bike, make sure it is fully heated up (20 minutes of running).

Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet
Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method.
Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.
*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***
Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.
if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.
If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.
Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.
If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.
If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.
If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:39 PM

#29

Ok, ran into another stumbling point...
Starter Jet??????

*** is it, where is it at and my JD Jet kit didn't come with any and neither did the GYTR kit.

  • ohioryder

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:40 PM

#30

also I am torn between 2 jetting specs......
which one are you running ohioryder?

I am running a 168 main, 48 pilot, 45 leak, 110 main air, and Yamaha NFLQ needle (5TA-14916-L1) #4. I did all the mods except o-ring, and install a 08 YZ450F pipe. It may be just bit rich but I love it. What a difference the YZ pipe made. Lots of power but no hard hit.

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  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:42 PM

#31

yeah i was looking at the oring mod.... looks wierd.. says its supposed to give you a snappier throttle response

  • ohioryder

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:50 PM

#32

yeah i was looking at the oring mod.... looks wierd.. says its supposed to give you a snappier throttle response


I think it is suppose to address the bog, but so far I havent had any problems. I tend to roll on the throtle most times and havent experienced the bog yet. I also did not have the o-rings at the time I had my carb out and couldnt wait to get it back together :ride:.

  • ww44wrf450f

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:52 PM

#33

The o-ring mod helps, use a plastic twist tie as a tool, get 2 o-rings and use the twist tie to help you slip them on over the cam lever after you first pull them over the screw! then pull the twist tie out!

  • ohioryder

Posted August 27, 2009 - 06:58 PM

#34

Ok, i am starting to think that the stock leak jet is a 50 and the one in the GYTR kit is a 40


the stock leak jet is a 60, and the GYTR leak jet is a 45. I am running the GYTR kit but went with another needle.

  • panaman

Posted August 27, 2009 - 07:33 PM

#35

Ok, well I got all the jets in....
I am pretty disappointed in the JD Jet kit, pretty much a rip off if you ask me...... for 75 bucks It should have all the jets

anyway.... i went with what I have...
This is what I did....
165 main
Red needle clip 5
48 Pilot
45 leak (because thats what came with the GYTR and the JD kit didn't come with poop.
Stock starter jet.. what ever size that may be because neither kit came with one and this is my only option.

I installed the zipty fuel screw. I turned it out 1.5 times.


Now i just need to put the orings on and put the bike back together.....
Thank god I bought a 24 pack of beer.
Tomorrow I will start it up and let you know if it runs... lol

  • thatraptorguy

Posted August 27, 2009 - 08:37 PM

#36

would like to know...im picking my 07 wr next friday and plan on doing this to it if its not already done....im also in ohio....we will have to ride next spring if your gonna be plated panaman

  • William1

Posted August 28, 2009 - 02:14 AM

#37

Stock starter jet is fine for most riders. You'll know if you need a larger one if the bike continually stalls on initial startup and will not idle for the first 10 seconds without fiddling. On some bikes, I have had to bump up the starter, some no. If you run a rich pilot circiut then often the stock starter jet never is an issue.

45 leak jet will be fine.


BTW, installing the oring on the bike is very easy to do with long tipped needle nose pliers.

Once the bike is back together, you can change both the main jet and pilot jet through the 17mm cap on the bottom of the carb in about one minute. The needle, well you need to pull the tank but with ball end drivers, you do not need to remove anything else, takes ten minutes at most.

  • erickdj

Posted August 28, 2009 - 08:08 AM

#38

Ok, well I got all the jets in....
I am pretty disappointed in the JD Jet kit, pretty much a rip off if you ask me...... for 75 bucks It should have all the jets


Yeah, you'd think they put all the necessary jets in the package for that kind of money. But they say that you're really paying for the "research" that went into putting together the jetting suggestions. Sad thing is, there's much more information to go by just in this forum alone, specially in the jetting sticky thread. So people pay the $75 "research", and still have to come to the forum to get jetting suggestions, AND still need to buy other jets.

  • William1

Posted August 28, 2009 - 08:20 AM

#39

Do not forget, you are also buying a triple taper needle, that is a large part of the package.

  • ohioryder

Posted August 28, 2009 - 08:43 AM

#40

I do not think the kit is necessary for those living in relatively flat areas(elevation speaking) and will never need to rejet. I think I have $45 in my jetting.




 
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