how difficult is it to install new valves??????


46 replies to this topic
  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 18, 2009 - 02:35 PM

#1

i talked with edco and they want 570 bucks in labor to fix my head so i think im going to buy a new one. i was wondering how hard it is to install valves into a new head. i have a valve spring commpressor what other tools would i need? i dont really have the money to buy a new head and pay to have valves installed along with the other parts i have to buy for the motor. edco was saying it would proboly be 300 + to install valves and springs.

  • grayracer513

Posted August 18, 2009 - 03:10 PM

#2

I think you need to go back and clear up a couple of things:

Is the $570 the cost of repair including the labor for the valve installation? Since seat repair is needed, I would think so.

Does the price they quoted include the valves and springs?

You do understand that a new head runs nearly $800, and does not have any valves, springs, etc., in it.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 18, 2009 - 04:07 PM

#3

on motosport.com they have a new head for 600 dollars and the 570 was just labor without parts. ive already orderd new valves and springs. wondering what you need to do and what tools you need to install new valves?
Labor
weld repair
replace 2 guides
replace 2 seats
repair spark plug hole
bucket repair
valve job
assemble with valve train
Total $571.00

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 19, 2009 - 02:30 PM

#4

i went with the stainless steel valves

  • mxmaddman

Posted August 19, 2009 - 03:24 PM

#5

Its easy to do, but If you mess it up its a costly mistake. You need the proper spring compressor as well not the big car style compressor either.. Normaly its just easier to have the people who cut the seats install it since they can make sure your seats and valves are going to mate perfectly on the newly cut seats.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 19, 2009 - 03:36 PM

#6

im buying a new head

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 19, 2009 - 04:02 PM

#7

is buing a used crank from a running motor a bad idea?? does the crank usally get worn out. i can get a crank cylinder and piston from a running bike for 200

  • mxmaddman

Posted August 19, 2009 - 07:05 PM

#8

is buing a used crank from a running motor a bad idea?? does the crank usally get worn out. i can get a crank cylinder and piston from a running bike for 200


Don't put used parts in it...whats the difference in parting it out and buying a used one or spending more money to rebuild yours...only with used wearable parts. In my garage if the piston or crank comes out 90% of the time its getting replaced with a new one, unless it was some unusual circumstances.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 19, 2009 - 07:27 PM

#9

yeah ill get oem. i was told i can install valves with a valve spring commpressor and a lapping tool. what size lappng tool should i get????

  • grayracer513

Posted August 19, 2009 - 10:17 PM

#10

The size that fits on the valve head. Lapping should not be necessary with a new head and valves. In fact, titanium valves should not be lapped under any circumstance, as the hard coating used on them is extremely thin, and can be seriously damaged by lapping. It's OK with most stainless valves, unless they are also coated.

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  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 20, 2009 - 04:51 AM

#11

yea i went with stainless steel valves so i should lap them right?

  • grayracer513

Posted August 20, 2009 - 08:31 AM

#12

yea i went with stainless steel valves so i should lap them right?

Lapping should not be necessary with a new head and valves.

I don't recommend it, but if you feel compelled...

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 20, 2009 - 10:40 AM

#13

so it isnt necessary to lap the valves?

  • grayracer513

Posted August 20, 2009 - 11:15 AM

#14

How many times would you like me to say it?

  • 426 NOOB

Posted August 20, 2009 - 12:16 PM

#15

How many times would you like me to say it?


lol :thumbsup:

  • mxmaddman

Posted August 20, 2009 - 12:57 PM

#16

LOL, Its a new head the angles on the valve and head are unworn and identical so there's no need to lap them. Just put them in and make damn sure your keepers are in correct.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 20, 2009 - 02:50 PM

#17

since i went with the stainless steels valves/springs do i also nee to buy the cotters, pad adjusting, lifter valves, retainers, and seals for the 2000 model????

  • grayracer513

Posted August 20, 2009 - 03:10 PM

#18

All of those parts are the same between the two models, but the cotters should be inspected for any signs that they've been beat up at all (check the edges of the ridge on the insides of them for signs of "mushrooming") and the retainers should also be checked for any undue signs of wear. "By the book", the keepers should be automatically replaced.

Lash pads are going to need to be selected once the new valves are in place.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted August 20, 2009 - 03:21 PM

#19

wonder why that stuff cost more for the 2002 model than the 2000 yz426f

  • cowboyona426

Posted August 20, 2009 - 03:50 PM

#20

grayracer, do I recall correctly that Ti valves should never be lapped? I remember reading that lapping a Ti valve would remove the hard coating or something to that effect one time...





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