WR Battery Issues


17 replies to this topic
  • DIX

Posted August 14, 2009 - 04:34 AM

#1

I lent my bike to a buddy, he ran the battery down, trying to restart it after a get off, and now the bike wont recharge the battery...

Would running the battery down to the point where it wont turn the bike over anymore, kill the batter stone dead?

This is the third new Battery that I put in the bike this spring, and at 70$ a pop, Id like to figure out whats happening with the batteries?

The previous batteries I concluded were being drained by the electrosport headlight kit which ran everything off the the ac (or dc I dont remember). So I went back to the stock headlight setup and thought everything was fine. In fact it seemed to be fine, as I ran the bike myself for a couple tanks of fuel without issue. Now this happens and I am wondering if the bike is still running down the bat.

How do I test the charging system to ensure everything is cosher???

  • idamoh

Posted August 14, 2009 - 06:08 AM

#2

I've gone through two batteries on my 08 WR so far so I feel your pain. I am on my third one and it seems to be lasting longer. I ran the charger cables out from under my seat so I can easily plug it into the trickle charger after each ride. This has worked really well so far.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted August 14, 2009 - 06:34 AM

#3

1) Definitely get a Battery Tender Jr or equivalent and keep the battery charged when you're not using it.

2) Check the voltage with the engine running. It should be > 13.5 volts and < 15 volts. If not there is something wrong with your stator/regulator.

3) Try to avoid running the battery down to dead. No battery, especially lead acid types, tolerate that well. If it won't estart without killing the battery then kickstart it. Usually you will only need to do this first start of the day if at all.

  • tribalbc

Posted August 14, 2009 - 06:35 AM

#4

The specs for checking your charging system are in your manual, it's pretty easy.

If you guys are going through battery's so fast you should get one of these.

http://ebattonline.com/

Save 5lbs of high placed weight - WILL make a difference to handling - and a better battery to boot.

I have one of their older Nicad models and it's been great. Way more juice for cranking over the starter and a good weight loss. Mine weigh's 2.5lbs, stock is 5.5lbs.
With this deal on the new Lithiums I decided it was time to upgrade. I ordered one last week, should be here any day :thumbsup:
I'll do a little review when I get it.

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 14, 2009 - 06:49 AM

#5

Here is another battery thread to follow up on. http://www.thumperta...578#post7627578 Just make sure to use the 5 ah version for the 450. :thumbsup: WR Dave

  • tribalbc

Posted August 14, 2009 - 07:03 AM

#6

Here is another battery thread to follow up on. http://www.thumperta...578#post7627578 Just make sure to use the 5 ah version for the 450. :thumbsup: WR Dave


Have you had problems starting with your 2.5 amp Turn Tech ?

I've never had a problem with my 2.5 amp Ebatt Nicad turning over the starter. I always cold start the bike with the kicker, Estart is simply for starts on the fly while riding but this is only because it takes so many revolutions with the Estart cold, always did. The 2.5 amp still turns it over faster than stock batery cold, I just can't be bothered when it will start in 1 or 2 kicks.

  • William1

Posted August 14, 2009 - 07:11 AM

#7

My wr battery is 2 years old and still as strong as new. If yours is not charging, you need to see why. If a battery is fully discharged and left that way for a perod of time, it cen get 'stuck'. Sometimes, a strong short charge (16+volts) for 15 minutes will 'unstick it', then you can recharge it as normal.

A iie battery should ast a minumum of three years, I have had quite a few last eight. I have had some only last a year but those were ones where teh initial prep and charger was done poorly. The inital fill and charge are critical to battery life.

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 14, 2009 - 10:44 AM

#8

Have you had problems starting with your 2.5 amp Turn Tech ?

I've never had a problem with my 2.5 amp Ebatt Nicad turning over the starter. I always cold start the bike with the kicker, Estart is simply for starts on the fly while riding but this is only because it takes so many revolutions with the Estart cold, always did. The 2.5 amp still turns it over faster than stock batery cold, I just can't be bothered when it will start in 1 or 2 kicks.


Like you I always cold start with the kicker, but not all users are as disciplined as us, so I am recommending the 5ah so there is no future issues. The 2.5 TurnTech spins the 450 over just fine when the engine is warm. Is the Ebatt now being charged by the bikes charging suystem or do you have to trickle it between rides? I find the bike starts pretty good with the blue/white wire unplugged. The info on this starts on page 2 of the thread

http://www.thumperta...y blue wire mod WR Dave

  • tribalbc

Posted August 14, 2009 - 12:33 PM

#9

Like you I always cold start with the kicker, but not all users are as disciplined as us, so I am recommending the 5ah so there is no future issues. The 2.5 TurnTech spins the 450 over just fine when the engine is warm. Is the Ebatt now being charged by the bikes charging suystem or do you have to trickle it between rides? I find the bike starts pretty good with the blue/white wire unplugged. The info on this starts on page 2 of the thread

http://www.thumperta...y blue wire mod WR Dave



On the 07+ WR's the Ebatt Nicad charged off the stock charging system as well but I know what you mean about earlier models needing a trickle.
The new Lithium one I'm getting plugs straight into the stock charging system as well. He's eliminated installing his circuit to prevent overcharging so I'm not sure if it's new bat tech or if the circuit is in the wiring of the bat ?

I was always a little skeptical that the blue/white wire disconnect might cause issues so I've been sort of waiting that one out. Seems everyone is still happy with it so maybe it's time to give it a try.
I just never saw the need as that critical since I dead engine start at races with the kicker and like I said only use the estart when I stall riding. Clutch, hot start in, still rolling, press the magic button and no one even knows you stalled :thumbsup:

I will give it a try and see what I think :worthy:

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  • DIX

Posted August 15, 2009 - 03:41 AM

#10

As this happened while a friend was on the bike Im not certain what actually happened. I normally estart the cold bike but it never takes more than a few revolutions to get fired up.

Any more info on getting a dead battery to take a charge again?

  • beezer

Posted August 15, 2009 - 03:56 AM

#11

Your buddy killed your battery. The 450 e-start is barely adequate, I only use it once the bike is warm.

I bought a 5 amp TurnTech and it doesn't start the bike any better then the stock battery but it is a bunch lighter.

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 15, 2009 - 05:40 AM

#12

If the battery is completely dead or has shorted plates you willl likely never get it back. That is the reallity of the liquid chemical battery, once the plates have shed all of the coatings they won't go back with charging and the battery is done. With the Turn Tech and I assume with the Ebatt as well, the battery is a dry chemical that when it is dead can be recharged a certain number of times ( don't know the number ) before it won't respond anymore. Once a lead acid battery gets low on charge and you keep pulling power out of it, it gets very hot, sheds the plate material and shorts the plates. Recharging, can at this point get dangerous in the form of a battery explosion. Never use more charging amperage than the battery tells you on the side ( on the stock ones anyway)

WR Dave

  • William1

Posted August 15, 2009 - 08:37 AM

#13

If the battery is completely dead or has shorted plates you willl likely never get it back. That is the reallity of the liquid chemical battery, once the plates have shed all of the coatings they won't go back with charging and the battery is done. With the Turn Tech and I assume with the Ebatt as well, the battery is a dry chemical that when it is dead can be recharged a certain number of times ( don't know the number ) before it won't respond anymore. Once a lead acid battery gets low on charge and you keep pulling power out of it, it gets very hot, sheds the plate material and shorts the plates. Recharging, can at this point get dangerous in the form of a battery explosion. Never use more charging amperage than the battery tells you on the side ( on the stock ones anyway)

WR Dave


I'd like to add to this. If a battery is deep discharged, a higher VOLTAGE 16~18V for a short while) may bring it around. Never crank up the amps

With most LI batteries, you never want to fully discharge them. That does severely shorten their life. One of the cool things about these batteries is for most of their charge, they operate at 100%. As soon as you notice significant decrease in performance (ie slower starter rotation), the battery is close to fully discharged and should be considered dead and recharged.

  • truebluedrz

Posted August 20, 2009 - 04:13 AM

#14

I'd like to add to this. If a battery is deep discharged, a higher VOLTAGE 16~18V for a short while) may bring it around. Never crank up the amps


with this in mind,
my ctec charger (7A) has a recondition function that puts out 16v on only 1.5amp.

while i know this is a little too high amp, if i charge the batt with my usual 600mah charger then put on the ctec at 16v/1.5A for say 10-15 mins do you think it will it have the same "bring it around" fix??

  • nbeze

Posted August 20, 2009 - 03:11 PM

#15

With this deal on the new Lithiums I decided it was time to upgrade. I ordered one last week, should be here any day :thumbsup:
I'll do a little review when I get it.




I still have the ORIGINAL battery in my 04 WR450 and debating whether to get another or go Lithium 2.5 or 5.0 ... cant seem to find the dimensions on the bigger model and don't know if it will fit in the cavity... anyone know? Hard to justify a change since I have never had to put a charger on the stock one even after:

1) 6600 miles to date over 5 years
2) NEVER use the kick start except the time the button broke on a ride
3) Stop and go one-day rides, 60 to 100 miles long, every other weekend

I could use some more convincing data...:worthy:

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 20, 2009 - 04:39 PM

#16

I still have my original as well ( 2 years and 3000 kms on it) and there isn't anything wrong with it either. I don't know about the rest of the guys on the forum, but I wanted to try out the lithium technology for myself. The 5 ah lithium battery will be 1/2 the size of your perfectly good stocker. In the Canadian climate it is good to try other ways to get the power to the starter as the lead acid battery really gives up the amperage on a cold morning. It's a choice only you can make for yourself, if you need more convincing then I would stay with what you know. WR Dave.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted August 21, 2009 - 03:10 PM

#17

I'd like to add to this. If a battery is deep discharged, a higher VOLTAGE 16~18V for a short while) may bring it around. Never crank up the amps
.


I don't get it. if you crank the voltage, you will crank up the current.

  • JoeT

Posted August 24, 2009 - 02:47 AM

#18

I don't get it. if you crank the voltage, you will crank up the current.


Voltage, current, and time are interrelated in batteries. You can set 2 of the 3. Once you set 2 the third is fixed.

For example if you were charging a nearly dead battery. To charge it to 16V quickly you would need to crank up the amps, but charge slowly and the amps will be low.




 
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