also i only have electric start, i'm wondering if i'm ok keeping it with my planned motor mods or should i get a kick shaft/gears/lever installed.
cheers,
Gila
1
Tell me everything you know about the Suzuki DR 125
Started by
Smacaroni
, Aug 08 2009 02:52 PM
58 replies to this topic
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 30 October 2009 - 05:57 AM
I forgot the 90s DRs had a battery. Mine and the DR-Z125 don't.
I'd look into relocating the battery first, but the remote reservoir would be an option too. I'm sure you can find one, might be a little pricey though.
I'd look into relocating the battery first, but the remote reservoir would be an option too. I'm sure you can find one, might be a little pricey though.
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 30 October 2009 - 07:16 AM
GilaMonster said:
yes, the last time i measured, the steering head is a bit longer on the dr compared to the drz/kx and the steering stop is different, will investigate more this weekend. - SNIP-
Haven't investigated the rear shock yet, with the battery on the left side i'm thinking the shock reservoir won't be able to rotate to that side so maybe i'll look for an older 80 shock with remote reservoir. hope i can find one.
cheers,
Gila
Haven't investigated the rear shock yet, with the battery on the left side i'm thinking the shock reservoir won't be able to rotate to that side so maybe i'll look for an older 80 shock with remote reservoir. hope i can find one.
cheers,
Gila
GilaMonster said:
Great thread, yes DR125 discussion is very meager anywhere on the net and all your research is greatly appreciated - especially any frame observations to other models. I'm about to cast off on my winter project - a winter indoor racer / street legal summer commuter / possible motard. Starting with my registered/plated/safetied/insured 94' DR125SE and after a ton of insight, i'll go with a hassle free EO 190 kit on 91pump. Next we have a full and complete 03' KX100 carcass on it's way next week and all i have left to track down is a full set of DRZ/KLX125 plastic & gas tank. Then she's off to jenny craig - hardest part will be macguyvering that sleek youth plastic onto that ol' husky adult frame. an old dude can dream i guess. i'll let the forum know how she goes.
Cheers.
Cheers.
That EO Kit is a 70mm piston right? I'm not sure about pin height at all, but I know the LT250S two wheel drive sport quad is a 72mm bore. That works out to almost 199cc, or if combined with an LT230 crank, 272 cc!
That's my goal, right there.
What kind of indoor racing are you planning on doing with it? I'm pretty sure your bike won't handle very well with a 19 inch front wheel. Come to think of it, I'm not sure how good your bike would handle turns in an arenacross anyways. Guess you'll be the lab rat for the rest of us.
I know the 80s KX80s accepted KX125 front wheels with the use of caliper adapters, but I'm lost on newer than say.. 85. Never liked them green bikes much anyways.
For a shock, consult Works Performance. They list a remote reservoir shock for the KX80 which is 14.95 inches long, versus 14.88 inches for a stock KX100. Perhaps you could barter with the nice boys over in the DR-Z Forum for some cash?
You haven't mentioned your exhaust yet. I bring good news! FMF DR200SE Q4 Should fit without too much fuss, designed for 200ccs anyways! Could cut down a few lbs too.
All in all, good luck with this project! It's cool to see I didn't buy into a group of one, so to speak, by buying a DR200 engine with intentions of building a fun bike with cams!
Edited by 500XC, 30 October 2009 - 07:16 AM.
forgot a word
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 03 November 2009 - 06:01 AM
Over the weekend I threw a DR-Z125 complete exhaust onto my ugly DR125.
Almost a perfect fit. Install the silencer before tightening down the head bolts, or you'll never get it on. There's one hole in the middle of the pipe that you probably should drill one to match the frame, I didn't though, I think it will be fine. Takes about 15 minutes to install.
The modern piece is so much lighter, probably 1/2 the weight of the stock DR piece.
Sounds like a DR-Z125, although there's a tiny metallic under tone to it. But it looks natural. Before:
After:
Almost a perfect fit. Install the silencer before tightening down the head bolts, or you'll never get it on. There's one hole in the middle of the pipe that you probably should drill one to match the frame, I didn't though, I think it will be fine. Takes about 15 minutes to install.
The modern piece is so much lighter, probably 1/2 the weight of the stock DR piece.
Sounds like a DR-Z125, although there's a tiny metallic under tone to it. But it looks natural. Before:
After:
37 posts
Location: Ontario
Posted 03 November 2009 - 01:31 PM
man u guys rock. i've been wondering how close of a fit a drz/klx 125 aftermarket pipe would be to my 94' DR125. i should have no trouble finding something cheap and used. i almost went with the Engines Only's outlaw exhaust. i like that fmf q4 but can't justify the cost. i thought about that exhaust mod that kientech.com does for $50 but you're right, the stock exhaust is fugly. do you think it'll handle that badly with kx100 suspenders on a large frame? never gave it much consideration cause i need the 19/16 wheel combo for my class at the indoor arenacross/pitbike racing. worst case i can race it like my two-stroke, just steer with the ass-end.
37 posts
Location: Ontario
Posted 03 November 2009 - 01:36 PM
if you're feeling real ambitious, you could try your DRZ125 plastic on your DR125 to check the fit, haha, i'll buy you a beer for that. i'm figuring it will take some custom brackets here and there for sure.
Cheers,
Gila
Cheers,
Gila
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 03 November 2009 - 02:36 PM
If worse comes to worse, you'll find a way!
What people say about bikes being unable to handle certain areas is bullshit anyways. I use a 1984 Husky 500XC in the tight woods!
What people say about bikes being unable to handle certain areas is bullshit anyways. I use a 1984 Husky 500XC in the tight woods!
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 04 November 2009 - 04:36 AM
Compared to the last exhaust transplant I did, this was a piece of cake. The prior endeavor was a KX100/80/85 exhaust on a KE100. That had many "moments", moments of doubt, moments of "oh! Crap!" and moments of undoing previously done modifications that I thought were helping... In the end, it was worth it. I'm amazed no one else hadn't tried it before.
I personally would think the KX suspension on the 94+ DR125 would be relatively easy, one trip to the machine shop, just like on the DR-Z125. On the 87 and under, it would be quite a lot more work, the steering stem is significantly different, so you'd have a lot more cutting and welding involved.
As far as the plastics go, anything is possible.
I don't know what type of air box the 94+ uses, however, the DR-Z125's body panels are designed to mate to the air box in some places. IMHO, the 83-87 air box would probably be an improvement for the youth bike. Perhaps one afternoon I'll get ambitious and mock it up to see what exactly is required. I'm sure it can be done, the question is, is it worth doing?
As you can see, my DR is ugly and then some. It would benefit from any work on the body. There's one pitfall to the DR-Z125 body on the DR125 frame, the rear fender will be shorter, but it'll be cleaner too. Mine is all floppy, I've been tempted to weld some reinforcements under the fender so it can't move. If you want to keep your tail light, you may need to pick an entirely different machine's tail light. I'll venture to guess a CSR305 from the early 80s would be pretty easy to mount, but many of the street bikes with that style tail light are possible candidates. The CSR would be chrome from the factory, you probably want somethign that's plastic, perhaps from an XT500.
Also, I realized that I didn't mention the cost in my previous post, $26 + shipping for a take off from eBay. Having installed a Yosh T-3? pipe on a DR-Z125, I'm certain any of the decent aftermarket exhausts for the youth bike will fit the DR. They're a lot more than $26 though. I would not put a Yosh pipe on this bike, it's insanely loud, we sold that because of the noise.
I personally would think the KX suspension on the 94+ DR125 would be relatively easy, one trip to the machine shop, just like on the DR-Z125. On the 87 and under, it would be quite a lot more work, the steering stem is significantly different, so you'd have a lot more cutting and welding involved.
As far as the plastics go, anything is possible.
I don't know what type of air box the 94+ uses, however, the DR-Z125's body panels are designed to mate to the air box in some places. IMHO, the 83-87 air box would probably be an improvement for the youth bike. Perhaps one afternoon I'll get ambitious and mock it up to see what exactly is required. I'm sure it can be done, the question is, is it worth doing?
As you can see, my DR is ugly and then some. It would benefit from any work on the body. There's one pitfall to the DR-Z125 body on the DR125 frame, the rear fender will be shorter, but it'll be cleaner too. Mine is all floppy, I've been tempted to weld some reinforcements under the fender so it can't move. If you want to keep your tail light, you may need to pick an entirely different machine's tail light. I'll venture to guess a CSR305 from the early 80s would be pretty easy to mount, but many of the street bikes with that style tail light are possible candidates. The CSR would be chrome from the factory, you probably want somethign that's plastic, perhaps from an XT500.
Also, I realized that I didn't mention the cost in my previous post, $26 + shipping for a take off from eBay. Having installed a Yosh T-3? pipe on a DR-Z125, I'm certain any of the decent aftermarket exhausts for the youth bike will fit the DR. They're a lot more than $26 though. I would not put a Yosh pipe on this bike, it's insanely loud, we sold that because of the noise.
37 posts
Location: Ontario
Posted 04 November 2009 - 02:03 PM
cool, i'm not worried about the noise, it'll just be raced indoors and in the summer i can't run it on the road with an aftermarket pipe anyways, maybe i'll try. i don't have to worry about the airbox, it gets replaced with K&N pod.
after reading some more threads and forums and seeing some other possibilities with DR's, i think i'm just going to make the Klx125 tank(black), shrouds(green) & seat(black) fit on this pig. i can use the kx100 front fender or an acerbis universal supermoto fender(black) on the front and the rear i might try a universal maier. i'm not fussy on good looking number plates, they just have to hold my numbers, that's all. although black number plates would be cool, then i could just about black the bike out and run white numbers, hmm. got an acerbis cyclops for it already, will put it on next spring after winter racing. i can't wait to weigh her when i'm done though. She's over 250lbs now, that's even more than my 06'KX250.
Cheers,
Gila
P.S> Any lurkers have an aftermarket DRZ/KLX125 full exhaust system they want to get rid of?
after reading some more threads and forums and seeing some other possibilities with DR's, i think i'm just going to make the Klx125 tank(black), shrouds(green) & seat(black) fit on this pig. i can use the kx100 front fender or an acerbis universal supermoto fender(black) on the front and the rear i might try a universal maier. i'm not fussy on good looking number plates, they just have to hold my numbers, that's all. although black number plates would be cool, then i could just about black the bike out and run white numbers, hmm. got an acerbis cyclops for it already, will put it on next spring after winter racing. i can't wait to weigh her when i'm done though. She's over 250lbs now, that's even more than my 06'KX250.
Cheers,
Gila
P.S> Any lurkers have an aftermarket DRZ/KLX125 full exhaust system they want to get rid of?
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 05 November 2009 - 04:37 AM
Even for racing, I don't think you want the Yosh pipe. My kid, 13 at the time, said it's too loud. This is the same kid who'll take his iPod turn it full blast and stick the ear phones in his ear. It's headache inducing loud for the rider.
What I'm saying with the air box is that you'll need to plan on some sort of tabs to accommodate the bolts where the air box would be on the DR-Z125 side number plates, I guess I wasn't clear last time.
Sounds like a fun bike when it's done. Good luck with the K&N pods, I've had absolutely no success with those things.
What I'm saying with the air box is that you'll need to plan on some sort of tabs to accommodate the bolts where the air box would be on the DR-Z125 side number plates, I guess I wasn't clear last time.
Sounds like a fun bike when it's done. Good luck with the K&N pods, I've had absolutely no success with those things.
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 05 November 2009 - 06:56 AM
Smacaroni said:
-snip-
I don't know what type of air box the 94+ uses, however, the DR-Z125's body panels are designed to mate to the air box in some places. IMHO, the 83-87 air box would probably be an improvement for the youth bike. Perhaps one afternoon I'll get ambitious and mock it up to see what exactly is required. I'm sure it can be done, the question is, is it worth doing?
As you can see, my DR is ugly and then some. It would benefit from any work on the body. There's one pitfall to the DR-Z125 body on the DR125 frame, the rear fender will be shorter, but it'll be cleaner too. Mine is all floppy, I've been tempted to weld some reinforcements under the fender so it can't move. If you want to keep your tail light, you may need to pick an entirely different machine's tail light. I'll venture to guess a CSR305 from the early 80s would be pretty easy to mount, but many of the street bikes with that style tail light are possible candidates. The CSR would be chrome from the factory, you probably want somethign that's plastic, perhaps from an XT500.
I don't know what type of air box the 94+ uses, however, the DR-Z125's body panels are designed to mate to the air box in some places. IMHO, the 83-87 air box would probably be an improvement for the youth bike. Perhaps one afternoon I'll get ambitious and mock it up to see what exactly is required. I'm sure it can be done, the question is, is it worth doing?
As you can see, my DR is ugly and then some. It would benefit from any work on the body. There's one pitfall to the DR-Z125 body on the DR125 frame, the rear fender will be shorter, but it'll be cleaner too. Mine is all floppy, I've been tempted to weld some reinforcements under the fender so it can't move. If you want to keep your tail light, you may need to pick an entirely different machine's tail light. I'll venture to guess a CSR305 from the early 80s would be pretty easy to mount, but many of the street bikes with that style tail light are possible candidates. The CSR would be chrome from the factory, you probably want somethign that's plastic, perhaps from an XT500.
Acerbis! is what I'd use on a clean line DS bike.
There's always alternatives to the DR-Z 125 plastics. It's a full size bike, why not give it full size bodywork?
RM (or any of the other mx models) side panels are relatively cheap, and easy to come by, especially at this time of the year. Dude or lass buys a new bike, suddenly none of their spares fit, so its off to the classifieds.
When I was much younger, I adapted YZ490 side panels to my PE250 for the hell of it, and the square number section. It actually took more time with the heat gun than yours will, but between the heat gun, a jigsaw, dremel and a drill I got 'er dun! Looked ugly tho, wrong color
. Your project shouldn't be too much harder, just make damn sure it'll line up.
37 posts
Location: Ontario
Posted 05 November 2009 - 07:39 AM
As mentioned, I'm going to leave the stock side panels as is/are. They just need to hold some 4" numbers. The plan now is to macguyver only the drz/klx125 gas tank, seat and shrouds to the DR125 frame. i'll try to figure out if this DR250 rear fender will fit or not, hopefully frames are similar: http://www.maier-mfg...&modelyear=1993
actually, even better i just found this one: http://www.acerbis.c...ar_fenders.html
just needs 7.25 inches at mounting point.
not looking for tail lights or anything. everything that isn't needed is going to be stripped off except for the magic button / battery(relocate yes, thanks for the tip).
Cheers,
Gila
actually, even better i just found this one: http://www.acerbis.c...ar_fenders.html
just needs 7.25 inches at mounting point.
not looking for tail lights or anything. everything that isn't needed is going to be stripped off except for the magic button / battery(relocate yes, thanks for the tip).
Cheers,
Gila
37 posts
Location: Ontario
Posted 10 November 2009 - 07:24 AM
will post pics shortly. test fitted a drz125 tank and seat to the dr125 and it's not good. big diff in size from mid-frame drz to large frame dr. the tank actually sits not too bad and only needs a couple of easy custom brackets but the seat is way too short and narrow and mis-shaped. what a weight difference though. thinking of marrying the ass end of the dr seat with the front end of the drz seat, topped and shaved with some high kx250 foam i got laying around. anyone know where to get a big bulk strip of seat material - preferably gripper? also looking for a dr200 full exhaust.
Cheers,
Gila
Cheers,
Gila
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 11 November 2009 - 04:45 AM
I got material for my XT550 DIY seat from the local auto upholstery shop. I think it's intended to be used as a boat cover.
Go there, check out what they have available and buy a yard (or what ever the metric equivalent is). I paid $10 for enough material to sew two seats.
One thing worth mentioning. I spent two hours sewing my seat together by hand. It would have been about five minutes with a sewing machine. Borrow one. I'd imagine any heavy duty home machine will do just fine for one motorcycle seat.
No clue on the DR200 exhaust. I think it's the same as the SP200. Either way, it's gonna be heavy. I'd go with the DR-Z125 or see if you can get your hands on a modern Suzuki 200 4T (DR200SE, etc.) exhaust and go from there.
Go there, check out what they have available and buy a yard (or what ever the metric equivalent is). I paid $10 for enough material to sew two seats.
One thing worth mentioning. I spent two hours sewing my seat together by hand. It would have been about five minutes with a sewing machine. Borrow one. I'd imagine any heavy duty home machine will do just fine for one motorcycle seat.
No clue on the DR200 exhaust. I think it's the same as the SP200. Either way, it's gonna be heavy. I'd go with the DR-Z125 or see if you can get your hands on a modern Suzuki 200 4T (DR200SE, etc.) exhaust and go from there.
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:03 AM
Thread revival!
Z50 tappet covers (valve inspection covers) fit the DR 125 valve cover.
Which really means nothing unless you're stuck and have a spare Honda 50 motor... or three.
Z50 tappet covers (valve inspection covers) fit the DR 125 valve cover.
Which really means nothing unless you're stuck and have a spare Honda 50 motor... or three.
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 03 February 2010 - 09:51 AM
That's cool. I try not to cobble together stuff from different manufacturers unless like you, I have the part on hand and it just kind fits. Usually cause I broke the good one and need a new one yesterday.
That's how our PW80 is going to end up with 90% of a KX60 suspension, I have the parts bike right next to the running PW and think "I bet that would work". And yes, I broke the PW80's suspension first.
Good to know though, some parts are darn near impossible to find.
That's how our PW80 is going to end up with 90% of a KX60 suspension, I have the parts bike right next to the running PW and think "I bet that would work". And yes, I broke the PW80's suspension first.
Good to know though, some parts are darn near impossible to find.
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 04 February 2010 - 06:26 AM
It was actually by accident, my buddy dropped off a Z50 head and new parts, and I threw the old tappet covers in the wrong can yesterday morning. Threw the DR100 head back together, and was wondering why one of the tappet covers looked so wrong! Quick check, and info!
I try to keep things in the same family aswell, but if I know something works well (Husky WR 40mm forks on a Suzuki PE250), then I'll run with it, but keep the stock parts.
PW80 lifted onto KX60 stuff? Make sure you keep an eye on the motor mounts and the backbone, my buddy who dropped the Z50 motor's little bro broke his PW in half.
But that sounds so bad ass that I wish I'd thought of it!:worthy:
I try to keep things in the same family aswell, but if I know something works well (Husky WR 40mm forks on a Suzuki PE250), then I'll run with it, but keep the stock parts.
PW80 lifted onto KX60 stuff? Make sure you keep an eye on the motor mounts and the backbone, my buddy who dropped the Z50 motor's little bro broke his PW in half.
But that sounds so bad ass that I wish I'd thought of it!
:worthy:
19 posts
Location: Georgia
Posted 04 February 2010 - 10:55 AM
This has been a good thread.
I have a '95 and a '96 DR125SE. The both run and look GREAT! My only issue is that the rear end is sagging bad on both bikes.
I reached out to Performance Works and apparently their offering utilizes the stock shock - so that may be a no-go.
I wish I could find some "modern shock" that I could swap in for the rear shock on these bikes..
Any thoughts or ideas?
I have a '95 and a '96 DR125SE. The both run and look GREAT! My only issue is that the rear end is sagging bad on both bikes.
I reached out to Performance Works and apparently their offering utilizes the stock shock - so that may be a no-go.
I wish I could find some "modern shock" that I could swap in for the rear shock on these bikes..
Any thoughts or ideas?
7256 posts
Location: Pennsylvania
Posted 04 February 2010 - 12:32 PM
A thought, but only a thought, perhaps a KX250 or so might fit the bill.
WTH am I smoking? Well, after doing the DR-Z125 with KX100 suspension, I'd bet that Kawi used the same mounting bolts on the 250 as the 100 which would give you the same eye diameter and depth.
IIRC, the modern DRZ uses the same bolts as the DR and the 250 would probably give you the length and stiffness. Possibly too stiff, but you wouldn't know till you research it.
Maybe a KLX/DR 400 shock might work too?
WTH am I smoking? Well, after doing the DR-Z125 with KX100 suspension, I'd bet that Kawi used the same mounting bolts on the 250 as the 100 which would give you the same eye diameter and depth.
IIRC, the modern DRZ uses the same bolts as the DR and the 250 would probably give you the length and stiffness. Possibly too stiff, but you wouldn't know till you research it.
Maybe a KLX/DR 400 shock might work too?
1234 posts
Location: British Columbia
Posted 04 February 2010 - 04:12 PM
Based soley on length and what you want (I'm guessing fully adjustable preload, compression and rebound clickers), I did find one possible solution:
1984-85 XR250R shock.
I have a review here in front of me from BITD, and while the reviewers claim the rear shock was excessively soft, the XR200 people have been using that to jack up the short travel XR200R without revalving or new springs.
Here's one on fleabay
1984-85 XR250R shock.
I have a review here in front of me from BITD, and while the reviewers claim the rear shock was excessively soft, the XR200 people have been using that to jack up the short travel XR200R without revalving or new springs.
Here's one on fleabay
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