Spliting cases on my Yz426


27 replies to this topic
  • mxmaddman

Posted August 13, 2009 - 01:50 PM

#21

i own a 426 and the bottom oil drain bolt has been taped out soooo many times that next time it strips i need all new casing and the dealer said its over $1000 for it but $2000 with labour, i like that bike and ive already put $2000 into but is it worth selling the way it is or should i get the new casing and still own it???


Is it too big to helicoil back to the original bolt size? Why the heck does it keep getting stripped in the first place??

P.S. I use an oven on low for 5-10 minutes just hot to the touch and a can of duster upside down to freeze/remove bearings... they fall right out. When i put them in i freeze the bearings and warm the cases... drop them in and and all is good. May not be yamaha recomended, but it requires no force, banging or pulling.

  • 50300

Posted August 13, 2009 - 01:58 PM

#22

Is it too big to helicoil back to the original bolt size? Why the heck does it keep getting stripped in the first place??

P.S. I use an oven on low for 5-10 minutes just hot to the touch and a can of duster upside down to freeze/remove bearings... they fall right out. When i put them in i freeze the bearings and warm the cases... drop them in and and all is good. May not be yamaha recomended, but it requires no force, banging or pulling.


its been tapped out to the max and has a heli coil theres nothing left except new casing the guy who owned it before me never took the time to properly twist the bolt in

  • gumbellion

Posted August 14, 2009 - 05:07 PM

#23

dont listen to the dealer. I got my new cases with bearings for 100 plus shipping off a guy on here and they are in excellent shape. then spend some time on here reading, buy a manual, and once you have all the parts together the job will take you less than a weekend. Im about 5 hours in and I have the motor completely apart and am just waiting on a gasket kit from the states to put it all back together.

  • 50300

Posted August 14, 2009 - 06:28 PM

#24

haha ontario, im here right now in perth visiting,, but anyways ill get to the point, i dont know if this matters but when u look at the bottom where the drain bolt is the bottom is sooo thin that you could break it in half if you hit a good sized rock, ill take my chance and sell it

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  • dunerat

Posted September 09, 2009 - 07:25 PM

#25

ive been searching threads and cant find the answer,what is the best sealant to use between the case halfs?

  • grayracer513

Posted September 09, 2009 - 07:43 PM

#26

YamaBond, or a Permatex product called "The Right Stuff", which duplicates the RTV sealing compound used by GM professionals. The case joints need to be CLEAN. Finish them with brake cleaner.

  • dunerat

Posted September 09, 2009 - 07:46 PM

#27

YamaBond, or a Permatex product called "The Right Stuff", which duplicates the RTV sealing compound used by GM professionals. The case joints need to be CLEAN. Finish them with brake cleaner.

thanx:thumbsup:

  • mxmaddman

Posted September 10, 2009 - 06:24 PM

#28

Yamabond is the best sealant I have ever found for motors bar none. There is 2 types hard drying and soft drying. Both are excellent sealants. Now that gray mentioned the other type i might give it a shot too just to compare. :busted:
Make sure you use a fast evaporating brake cleaner. It will stick much better.





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