I never said that you said your stator could run and HID at idle...I said that it could NOT and that is a BIG turn off especially when there are two other stators on the market that can.
Also when you speak of the trade off, I dont see that trade off with the Trail Tech....especially as it powers one HID at idle and TWO at anything above idle....so what trade off is there again
The TrailTech stator is 100W maximum output. That tradeoff is in place due to our part being capable of about 137W maximum output. This gives you even more power output at higher RPMS (120W of which is available by 4000RPMs) to allow you to run other electrical accessories (GPS, heated grips, etc). If the absolute most critical feature is to be charging the battery at idle, then I can't argue that our stator is the best choice. We designed this part to be more powerful in RPM ranges you see during use, where the bike spends the majority of its time while being ridden, and in this range you have more power available.
Also keep in mind, we seem to be overlooking the fact that you CAN run your headlights at idle for quite awhile. With a 5AH standard battery fully charged from riding, you could run your lights for 20 minutes at idle and not kill your battery. I figured that by:
5AH = 5amps per hour before being dead.
(2) 35W HIDs = 70W load
70W = 5.4Amps draw @ 13VDC (higher than would still start the bike)
So the battery would be dead in slightly under one hour discharging 5.4A consistently to run both lights.
Lets cut that in half to be safe, so we have slightly less than 30 minutes before having a dead battery, which is why I'm going with 20 minutes.
Most riders will not be idling anywhere near 20 minutes long in real situations.
You merely have to crack the throttle 1/8 of a turn to get into charging range with our part. In this case, the higher overall power output of the part is more beneficial to majority of riders.
Im picking power based on the fact that I dont want a dead battery...I run TWO HID's and when come to a stop I want to be able to run one along with my dual sport kit, GPS and electric start...if the stator can't keep up then I am stuck with a dead battery....that is NO good
As I explained above, you can run your accessories and lights for a completely reasonable amount of time at idle and not end up with a dead battery. Obviously if you leave them all on for a long time (more than roughly 20 minutes as I demonstrated above) you could end up with a dead battery. Trust me, I don't want ANY of our customers getting stuck with a dead battery. But our system is designed to produce more power while riding rather than focus on power at idle. If that is your primary concern, to be able to idle for long periods of time and keep your battery charged, then our system is not ideal for you. All of this discussion is assuming a battery in good shape as well.
You are correct about AC voltage not being a great way to measure power but is a good way to simple compare...I was simply comparing AC numbers accross the board...I just dont see how you can claim such a high DC reading when your raw AC power is so low...again I would be more than happy to test your setup and see what it really is putting out
I believe you still missed point on this issue, the AC Voltage measured out of the stator really is NOT a good comparison to get an idea of power output. You can compare parts this way, but you are not making a comparison of any parameters affecting real world use of the part!
The higher DC voltage measurements are due to the stator being able to source more current (and therefore more power) than the other parts at that RPM, and therefore keep the voltage higher (where 14.6 is the maximum output of the regulator so as not to overcharge the battery).
I would be very happy to sell you an ESK770 kit for your WR450, but unfortunately we do not need any more testers for this kit.
It has been fully tested in house and on local bikes, both track and trail riding.