So this past weekend I went on a ride and found a nasty single track, really tough stuff. Needless to say I stalled alot and since I was barely moving the bike was getting hot and the fan was running constantly. With each consecutive restart after a stall it was getting harder to start untill at the end I had to hold it wide open throttle and crank for over 5 seconds for it to finally start. Also at times it would idle so low that if I gave it any throttle itd stall again. Finally got to some open trail, the bike cooled down and the problem went away, am I alone in this experience?

No, I've been there with my WR-250R, too.
It happened only one time to me, and it was a hot and muggy day.
I've made two changes and it hasn't happened since:

I use a Power Commander lll along with my FMF header, Q4 muffler, and deflappered airbox top.
At first, I was using a map that was intended for a WR-250X with the airbox side door left off.
The bike ran great and starting was fine until one hot and very humid afternoon.
This fuel map was probably a bit too rich for my setup, especially in hot-and-humid weather.
After my no-start incident, I loaded a map meant for a bike with a stock air filter but with an aftermarket exhaust.

I removed the silly please-don't-heat-my-inner-thigh air management duct from the back side of the radiator.
This is a dirt bike with street-legal equipment, dammit - I'm not riding a Gold Wing on my way to the Perrier-sipping tournament dressed in my tuxedo, so let that hot air straight out of the radiator unimpeeded, will ya'? :)
Now, the back of the radiator has just the electric fan hanging on it, and the whole bottom half is nice and clear.

I haven't had a hot starting problem since, including an over 100 mile ride just this past Sunday on some tight Connecticut woods with slow going a'plenty and numerous stops and restarts.

Almost all my riding in this area is thick knarly woods and a lot of times my fan is running if i stop to turn around etc. If I stall it out, I usually just opt to turn off the ignition and give it a few seconds, then turn it back on. This lets the fuel pump build up some pressure and it starts up no problem.

I'm having the same issues as well. Mine is hard to start after going slow and filtering traffic. Am pretty sure it is the fuel pump cutting out, as I don't hear the usual whirr when trying to restart warm/hot. I wonder if the air management duct is holding up heat under the tank causing the pump to overheat? Might give that a shot and see if it is a quick fix.

tonysmallframe said:

You are not going to hear the pump noise if you are just trying to restart after a stall unless you turn the key off and then back on. If you leave the key on and try to restart the pump doesn't make any noise. That is normal. I doubt the air management duct (as you call it) is the problem. Sounds like you just have the hot start problem.

The issue with mine is after I run into a store and back out - put the key back in and turn it to on, the pump will make no noise at all if the bike is hot. I then have to wait 15-20 minutes for everything to cool down, and then everything works again. It hasn't cut out or stalled on me while running yet, but that may happen soon. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is just overheating - but want to find out why instead of just replacing it with another $200 pump.

tonysmallframe said:

Well if that's the case then you have a bad pump. It should make the buzz noise each time the key is turned on. I would take it back to the dealer if it's still under warranty.

My no-start problem reared it's ugly head again, today, and just as I was about to head out to meet my riding buddy.
I did discover the problem, though, and it was my Power Commander lll. :(

Seems the unit wasn't powering-up once the key was turned on and wasn't flashing it's little green LED lights going back and forth on the front of the unit like it's supposed to.
I removed the unit from under the headlight (where Dynojet instructs it be mounted), held it in my hand, and turned the key on.
Viola.
The unit powered-up and the bike started.

After fussing with the unit, I decided to remove it from my WR and just ride the bike for the day with the stock FI fueling.
Throttle response and power were down compared to with the Power Commander, but at least it started immediately whenever I hit the button. :)
I still had fun.

So, I suppose the wiring leading into the unit is not healthy and is not making a solid connection somewhere.
I can't say that mounting it up on the steering stem below the headlight is THE cause of the problem with all of the twisting that wiring gets, but, I guess it's possible.
I've heard of such problems with Power Commanders, and I'm wondering if it's the case with mine.

Anyway, I missed the richer fueling with the unit working, so I'm going to buy another FI programmer unit.
How's everyone getting along with their FMF programmers on their WRs?
Are they reliable? :)

Why don't you try mounting the PC under your seat instead? Maybe there is nothing wrong with it except for a bad connection or pinched wire. Having it under the seat rules out the possibility of pinched wiring by routing it up to the headlight area. I would try that before spending more money on another programmer.

But to answer your question, the FMF programmer hasn't given me a bit of trouble.

Yeah, if only. :)

I just don't have enough faith in putting the PClll back on with it in it's current condition.
With my luck, I'd be out in the middle of East Bumfark and encounder the same problem.
I'd rather just get a fresh unit and carry on, and this time I want to try something else.

Naturally, I'm going to see if Dynojet will warranty repair the unit since it's only a month old. :)

Mine will be difficult when it's hot as well. I have the Q4, Powerbomb, programmer ( stock settings still ), K&N filter and open flapper. I usually just give it a little gas or turn off the ignition for a couple seconds then it goes fine.