Threads coming out of oil drain hole?


24 replies to this topic
  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:05 AM

#1

I was changing the oil in my 06 just awhile ago when I noticed something felt wrong when putting the drain bolt back in the hole when it did not seem to get snug.

I noticed it looked as if there was a spring in the hole. I looked at it closer and the threads were uncoiling out the drain hole:excuseme:.

I thought the threads were embeded in the mold of the motor and not wraped inside the hole.

How is one to fix this? It is the drain bolt under the right side footpeg (back brake pedal side).

I might note that I have an aftermarket drainplug with a magnet on the end but I have never had any issues when tighting or takeing it off until now.

  • WB450

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:29 AM

#2

http://www.timesert.com/

  • aj_yz426

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:31 AM

#3

If you aren't the original owner, probably some one put a helicoil in there to repair the threads in the past?

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:36 AM

#4

No.......I bought the bike new in Feburary of 2006 right off the floor. Never had any issues with the bolt til today.

I just noticed when putting the bolt back in that it would not tighten like it did the last time I changed the oil which was this past friday.

It is odd that the threads look like a spring coming out the hole.

The third thread in the front and on back are close together but I would bet if I pulled on the first thread it would unraveal the rest of them.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:41 AM

#5

http://www.timesert.com/


How much are these kits and which one would I need for the right side drain hole (back brake pedal side). The bolt head takes a 14mm wrench to remove it.

  • aj_yz426

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:52 AM

#6

It sounds like a helicoil is in there: the looking like a spring made me think helicoil (http://www.helicoil.in/).

I would pull it out and then use the timesert.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 09:57 AM

#7

Want to hear something even more odder. I pulled on the end of the thread that was at the end of the drain hole and as I suspected it uncoiled the rest of the threads in the drain hole.

So I pulled out the loose thread until it broke off and I seen some more threads in the middle of the drain hole so I took a small screwdriver and stuck it in the drain hole and picked out the end of the thread to get a hold of it and pulled it out.

I put the drain bolt in the hole and screwed it in and as I was turning it...........it felt kinda tight but was going in. It went in all the way and as soon as it seated to the case on the motor I stopped and give it just a little turn (barely) and it stayed.

I guess this will fix it until I change the oil again. It seems to be pretty tight, tight enough to where I think that the motor vibration will not cause it to work out. I didnt use a torque wrench but by the way it feels I believe it feels like it is torqued to over 10ft pounds.

  • Justin89

Posted July 22, 2009 - 10:04 AM

#8

Which drain bolt is it, left or right (under bike)? I've had the same problem with the left drain bolt on my 06 and 07, however both bikes were used when I got them. Also, make sure you didnt mix up the drain bolts when you put them back in. The right drain bolt is a tad larger than the left drain bolt. Hope this helps some.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 10:53 AM

#9

Which drain bolt is it, left or right (under bike)? I've had the same problem with the left drain bolt on my 06 and 07, however both bikes were used when I got them. Also, make sure you didnt mix up the drain bolts when you put them back in. The right drain bolt is a tad larger than the left drain bolt. Hope this helps some.



If you would read the thread!..... I stated it was the right drainbolt (crankcase) Clutchcover side.

And no I didnt mix the bolts up cause it would be about impossible to do that since both bolts are completely different in size (like a etheopian and Budda).

And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.

However the bolt is back in and seems to be tight and I believe it wil hold this time. I will have to see we I change the oil the next time and see if it will be hard to take out or thread back on

  • aj_yz426

Posted July 22, 2009 - 11:00 AM

#10

And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.


Seems unlikely, but maybe they use this type of thread insert from the factory (Grayracer might answer that) or it was somehow stripped when prepping the bike and fixed with a helicoil.

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  • dirt_rider_39

Posted July 22, 2009 - 11:42 AM

#11

If the "spring" comming out can bend and not break its a thread insert, If it breaks when bent its the aluminum tearing out. Either way it is not a good idea to have any screw/plug in a condition that if it comes out you will loose your oil.

Even if you can get a bit of torque on it I would atleast safety wire it

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 12:12 PM

#12

If the "spring" comming out can bend and not break its a thread insert, If it breaks when bent its the aluminum tearing out. Either way it is not a good idea to have any screw/plug in a condition that if it comes out you will loose your oil.

Even if you can get a bit of torque on it I would atleast safety wire it


I saftey wired it somewhat but now I have washed the bike and cleaned it real good and took it to the basement and I will safety wire it better so it will not turn out.

  • jrny426

Posted July 22, 2009 - 12:39 PM

#13

If its a hard metal its a heli coil if its aluminum its the actual threads (not sure how that would happen though),sounds liked somebody F'd up along the the way and tried to hide it.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 22, 2009 - 08:06 PM

#14

Its not hard at all. When I took the thread out it broke into easy. If someone did mees up it took it 3 and a half years and a lot of oil changes to finally tear out.

  • Justin89

Posted July 22, 2009 - 08:08 PM

#15

If you would read the thread!..... I stated it was the right drainbolt (crankcase) Clutchcover side.

And no I didnt mix the bolts up cause it would be about impossible to do that since both bolts are completely different in size (like a etheopian and Budda).

And it wasnt an Heli-coil unless they put it in at the factory cause I also said I bought the bike new off the floor.

However the bolt is back in and seems to be tight and I believe it wil hold this time. I will have to see we I change the oil the next time and see if it will be hard to take out or thread back on


Woa! Sorry just trying to help :worthy: And how many threads do we have asking bout the drain bolt mix up? I wouldnt chance anything when it comes to drain bolts but that's just me...

  • smokin529

Posted July 23, 2009 - 06:23 AM

#16

Its not hard at all. When I took the thread out it broke into easy. If someone did mees up it took it 3 and a half years and a lot of oil changes to finally tear out.


Last night I finished splitting my cases due to the same issue. I am taking it to a machine shop to have them put the insert in for me. Two years of over tightening the drain plug caused mine to pull the threads out as well.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 23, 2009 - 07:30 AM

#17

You stripped the thread, plain and simple. The rear drain hole is an M10x1.25 thread. You will have to at least partially remove the engine from the frame to repair this, since the frame rail is in the way with the engine in place.

  • mxstate

Posted July 23, 2009 - 08:56 AM

#18

Same exact thing happened to a friend on an 07.
It was the first oil change after 5 hours and I know the guy wouldn't tight without a torque wrench (calibrated)
In fact he was not even at the stage of tightening but just make it snug and knew that something was wrong.
Went to the dealership the day after, got it inspected by a tech and Yamaha stepped up on new cases + labor, but like i said the bike was new
In your case you should at least give it a shot and have the damage inspected by a Yamaha dealer but the chances are pretty slim IMO...

So you're going to need an Helicoil insert
It's easy to install but to do a clean job it would be better ot have the cases splitted so that you don't have any chips from the drilling/tapping going into the cases
I know some guys don't even care and just drill and install the insert
You need to be prudent and take your time if you go that way
Drill at incremental depths and back out often to remove the chips
Same thing when tapping
Good luck !!!!

  • dirt_rider_39

Posted July 24, 2009 - 09:42 PM

#19

Same exact thing happened to a friend on an 07.
It was the first oil change after 5 hours and I know the guy wouldn't tight without a torque wrench (calibrated)
In fact he was not even at the stage of tightening but just make it snug and knew that something was wrong.
Went to the dealership the day after, got it inspected by a tech and Yamaha stepped up on new cases + labor, but like i said the bike was new
In your case you should at least give it a shot and have the damage inspected by a Yamaha dealer but the chances are pretty slim IMO...

So you're going to need an Helicoil insert
It's easy to install but to do a clean job it would be better ot have the cases splitted so that you don't have any chips from the drilling/tapping going into the cases
I know some guys don't even care and just drill and install the insert
You need to be prudent and take your time if you go that way
Drill at incremental depths and back out often to remove the chips
Same thing when tapping
Good luck !!!!




Good point! heres the shop tip o the day!...When you are drilling or tapping a hole like that pressurize the cases with either low pressure shop air or even a vacum cleaner exhaust...it will blow any chips out as you drill and tap....

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted August 10, 2009 - 07:10 AM

#20

You stripped the thread, plain and simple. The rear drain hole is an M10x1.25 thread. You will have to at least partially remove the engine from the frame to repair this, since the frame rail is in the way with the engine in place.


I ordered the Time-Sert application kit and it will be here tomorrow. I ordered the M10x1.25 kit for the drain hole bolt.

Which way will be the best to raise the motor enough to clear the frame rail to gain good acess to put the insert in? I dont want to split the cases but Iam going to take my time while drilling and tapping and clean the shaveings out.

I was just wondering which would be better> Take the motor out the frame or just some of the mount bolts and lift the motor up enough to gain acess the the drain hole.





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