BD Kit Battery Not Charging



5 replies to this topic
  • BillS

Posted September 19, 2002 - 09:01 PM

#1

My BD kit nicads were no longer holding a charge so I recently installed a new .8Ah Powersonic lead/acid. I went for a test ride and my blinkers weren't working. Also the battery seemed to not be holding a charge as headlight was dimming at idle so I charged it fully with a charger and the blinkers still didnt work. I replaced the flasher with a standard automotive 12V flasher and they started working fine with the bike not running and batt fully charged (with a batt charger). Last night I went for a ride and the blinkers were getting highly erratic at high RPM, flashing really fast. I was thinking maybe because of vibration due to the way I tie wrapped the flasher unit. But then my battery proceeded to die completely as I rode - at intersections I had to rev quite high to get appreciable light out of the headlight. It does take and hold a charge with the charger. I suspect the regulator/rectifier is shot. I will get out a voltmeter tonight to see what the battery is getting supplied with. Anybody have any insight or troubleshhoting suggestions? I also want to know if there are any suggestions on where to get one of these regulators/rectifiers (or equiv) in Canada.

  • Chaindrive

Posted September 19, 2002 - 10:13 AM

#2

I would contact BD for specific troubleshooting instructions first. Electrical components are never returnable, so make sure you have the correct diagnosis first.

as an aside, Given the tiny capacity of the NiCad battery and the fact that it is only there to pass the "taillight on for 20 min without the engine running " requirement, I don't understand why D.S. kit manufacturers like B.D. haven't switched to L.E.D. tail/brake and turn signals.

I drive truck, and these are standard on new equipment. They never burn out, are totally sealed, and best of all, require a tiny fraction of the juice that incandescant or halogen or any other type of lights do. They cost a lot more, but when a single burned out bulb costs you $50 or more at the chicken coop, its cheap insurance.

  • Chaindrive

Posted September 19, 2002 - 10:18 AM

#3

HEY!!
That was post #200!!!
GUARANTEED good advice from a boner-fide ekspurt! :D :D :)

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Chaindrive

Posted September 19, 2002 - 10:22 AM

#4

Hold on! NOW it calls both of those posts #201 (or willit be 203 when I post this one?) I never noticed it did that before. Who's yankin my chain? :D :D :)

  • techman

Posted September 20, 2002 - 04:53 PM

#5

Hi BillS,
BD hasn't switched to LED's because of approvals and liability issues. You'll notice the truck and bus ight assembly products are DOT approved. That's a bit of a procedure, requiring proper engineering design and performance tests. I've looked into the issue myself because I'm sick of broken bulbs. Lower power is big bonus. You can get 1156 or 1157 bulb replacements which have a cluster of LEDs on a bulb base, BUT, it's the assembly that gets DOT approved, ie a holder with lense taking a specified bulb like 1156 or 1157 etc. Change the bulb, you lost the approval and safety rating re liability in accidents/incidents ("I didn't see the brake light come on" you-"It did come on, see, it even still works after the accident" - lawyer-"it wasn't bright enough, in the right spectrum and pattern to meet DOT requirements, that's why it wasn't seen" you-"DOH! I'm screwed!") You'll note that there's big disclaimers on all the internet site and packages of those LED 1156/1157 thingies saying not for highway use.

Now for offroad-only use, hey, go ahead and convert. BD makes street legalising kits - hence no LED's - yet. I'll bet they're in the works, they have to be, it just makes too much sense to do it.

Re your regulator, if it's two wires, one hot and one to ground, it's a shunt type and you can just swap in one from a snowmobile. Grab one at your local shop, should be pretty cheap. As for the Nicads, they may have truly died a natural death and the acting up you're experiencing with the SLA sounds like a regulator gone bad. Make sure you didn't boil out your battery liquid!

If replacing the regulator doesn't fix the situation, you could have bad windings (read shorting due to insulation breakdown) in your lighting stator. That would cause lower voltage output. Also sheck your connectors for mechanical integrity and corrosion.

  • techman

Posted September 20, 2002 - 04:55 PM

#6

Hi BillS,
BD hasn't switched to LED's because of approvals and liability issues. You'll notice the truck and bus ight assembly products are DOT approved. That's a bit of a procedure, requiring proper engineering design and performance tests. I've looked into the issue myself because I'm sick of broken bulbs. Lower power is big bonus. You can get 1156 or 1157 bulb replacements which have a cluster of LEDs on a bulb base, BUT, it's the assembly that gets DOT approved, ie a holder with lense taking a specified bulb like 1156 or 1157 etc. Change the bulb, you lost the approval and safety rating re liability in accidents/incidents ("I didn't see the brake light come on" you-"It did come on, see, it even still works after the accident" - lawyer-"it wasn't bright enough, in the right spectrum and pattern to meet DOT requirements, that's why it wasn't seen" you-"DOH! I'm screwed!") You'll note that there's big disclaimers on all the internet site and packages of those LED 1156/1157 thingies saying not for highway use.

Now for offroad-only use, hey, go ahead and convert. BD makes street legalising kits - hence no LED's - yet. I'll bet they're in the works, they have to be, it just makes too much sense to do it.

Re your regulator, if it's two wires, one hot and one to ground, it's a shunt type and you can just swap in one from a snowmobile. Grab one at your local shop, should be pretty cheap. As for the Nicads, they may have truly died a natural death and the acting up you're experiencing with the SLA sounds like a regulator gone bad. Make sure you didn't boil out your battery liquid!

If replacing the regulator doesn't fix the situation, you could have bad windings (read shorting due to insulation breakdown) in your lighting stator. That would cause lower voltage output. Also sheck your connectors for mechanical integrity and corrosion.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.