I just changed the oil, and the crank Plug doesnt stop turning and thats with hardly presure, there is an oil leak from the plug, is the plug gone bad or i ruined the crank frame?

I'm no expert but I'd be gingerly pulling the plug back out to check the thread on it before you make things worse. If the thread on the plug isn't damaged you might need to retap the thread inside the frame. If you can't do that yourself I'd be surprised if it cost you more than $20 to have it done somewhere if you can transport the bike.

Did you cross thread it putting the plug back in? Threads don't normally 'go' bad, they get damaged somehow, usually by cross threading or over tightening...

it was from over tightening it, so i went to the dealer to get a new plug by the time i got out, all the engine oil spilled everywhere. so i had to leave it with the dealer, he is gonna look at it in a couple of day, he told me its either rethreading it or a whole new crank case? what do you guys think the chance of a whole new crank case?

Hopefully you can repair this problem. Always torque and use a new crush washer after your oil change. Good Luck!

pooks said:

None. A thread insert or retapping would fix it.

Here's a thread I found.

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=469256

It can be fixed... whether or not the dealer is willing to 'hack' a fix is questionable though. Some dealers might say the only way to safely fix it is to replace cases... which would mean get your bike away from the dealer and take is someplace else.

thanks guys i will keep that in mind when i hear from him...

So if its helicoiled, Does it mean the next Plug would need to be bigger in size?

no the heli is inserted into a larger diameter hole and the plug goes into the stock size diameter hole in the heli

Re-using the old crush washer is a good way to crack the case. Then the case must be replaced, or possibly welded. I learned this from Thumpertalk before I did any damage.

This is one place I prefer to use a Timesert. vs Helicoil But it takes a lot more work to use a time sert in an app like this.

Additionally, forget the copper crush washer; just get some aluminum washers from a Honda shop

Heli-coils are crap.

Don't use them. (very old school)

Timesert is the way to go.

Get a new drain bolt & drill one corner for lock wire.
Install the new drain bolt & use a Papco 263-808 sealing washer.
(available at your local automotive parts store).
Tighten wrist tight & lock wire the bastard, done.

The stock suzuki crush washers have caused too many problems.
They are meant to be replaced after every drain.

jmckay

bronco78 said:

I've done about 5 oil changes on my '05 in the past year and still have the same alum. washer on my crank and reservoir drain plug. Every time I change the oil I wipe the bolt and hole threads off then close it up...then one final little tug on the wrench to snug it down. I keep a close eye on them to make sure they're still seated in the right place on the bolt and are not flattening out any more. I have a toolbox full of leftover dealership seals and crush washers from over the years and still have yet to see a reason to need to replace mine, *in my particular situation*.

...not saying they're all the same or it's not safe practice to just pitch em.

DaveW2 said:

I used a brand new crush washer, so i hope i didnt crack the the case

jmckay said:

Well we can agree to disagree… The time cert leaves a shoulder above the material unless you make a counter bore for it.. Not a big deal if you have the machines and tools to do so. And not always needed depending on the application. But on many applications you need to have the thread insert below surface level. All my new or rebuilt aluminum heads and blocks get stainless steel threaded inserts installed, thats hundreds of thread inserts installed. As do some of the cast steel ones depending on the app.
The helicoil is an excellent product, and cannot be beat for use in most applications. As for it being old school.. Yup, it’s been doing an excellent job for a lot longer than newer products, .. Just means it’s still a great product.

I have both TimeSerts and Helicoils on my parts shelves.. Most time I chose whichever I have the right size on hand for the job, but both do the job well. If the threads need to be below surface level, I have a choice, counter bore, or just install the helicoil a few .002 below surface level.

To each his own, use what works for you. :thumbsup:

So i just had a phone call from the dealer, and he says i cracked the crank case and i need a whole new one for hundreds of pounds, should i take it somewhere else? should i believe him? should i just take the bike back and sell it in parts on ebay? im confused... i though it could just be helicoiled...

pooks said:

It can have the threads repaired if only the threads were damaged. On the DRZ, with a reused oil gasket that is over tightened, it can and will fracture the case. The gasket forms into a wedge and simply breaks out a section of the case starting at the drain hole. Do a search, you'll find a few here. Not super common but enough to know it's not a onetime deal.

To fix? Might as well look for a used motor.. Freshen it up and run it. Or Find a motor that is otherwise destroyed (crank bad, head dropped a valve, ect) but has a good case (CHECK THE OIL PUMP WELL IN THE CASE) and have the motor built using it. If you do the R&R of the motor,, setting the new case and old motor on the table for the shop. It should not be that much.. Do a big bore while you’re in there :LOL:

Here have a look.




not much i can do, thinking i might get a new second hand engine.

Damn, we see that too many times around here... which is one of the reason I broke down and bought a decent torque wrench for smaller bolts awhile back.