Everyone with converted fcr39 tell us your set up.

23 replies to this topic
  • blairaudio

Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:21 PM

#1


I am starting this thread to see how your converted and completely converted fcr39 works.
/Name and year of bike it came from.
/All jetting specs.
/What you did to make it work.
/How does it run.
Please no bashing,this is for people who are willing to try and mod out of the box.:ride: :thumbsup:

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  • jersey92

Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:28 PM

#2

Mine is from a yz/wr 426 01 i think,
I followed eddie,s jetting specs exactly with the needle he suggested all for sea level(EMN) needle
I Used all standard adapters,and all the usual mods.The search function is a wonderful thing,,,,Oh It runs as advertised,, Well worth it

  • hi_im_sean

Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:33 PM

#3

came from an 01 E, installed on my 07 S with an RS-3, and 3x3

155 mj
38pj
emp needle 2/4 clip, summer/winter
pilot airscrew 5/8 turns out from seated
tune fuel screw to suit conditions
forgot the rest, but im sure its stock, 200maj?

used E model intake, and sudco bell, both came with the carb as i bought it used, had to buy E cables

runs fantastic

  • blairaudio

Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:35 PM

#4

2008 yfz450 fcr39.So far i bought the e intake boot. I removed and am in the process of manufacturing and relocating the vapor box.(will post pics when done).Do not have an intake bell,i modded a rubber boot to work.Will be buying a JD kit once i know the carb is mocked in.I know i have a 155 main,42 pilot,trying to find out the rest of jetting tonight(it is all stock).
Will post more after the weekend i will have it mounted .

  • ebrabaek

Posted 14 July 2009 - 05:54 PM

#5

Poopers..... I don`t qualify........

Erling

  • lynk

Posted 14 July 2009 - 06:19 PM

#6

I've got a Yoshi RS2 and the FCR-MX 39 (bought from the TT store).

My bike is running fantastic now, and should only need one more tweak. I've got another session on the dyno scheduled for July 25. I'll try to remember to update this post with my results. If all else fails, I'll post my final jetting on my thread, here: http://www.thumperta...stock+yoshi+rs2

I am *not* running an ACV (decelleration enrichener). Here's my jetting:

42 (100) NYCR-2 155 (200)

My idle is a little rich, but inside 1/4 throttle feels great, so I'm expecting to settle on this, as soon as I can get a new pilot-air jet:

42 (108) NYCR-2 155 (200)

One thing's for sure... I like it a lot better than an EMN. :D


DUHHH, I guess I should state that I'm running at sea-level around 70*F.

  • blairaudio

Posted 17 July 2009 - 06:44 AM

#7

I really gave it a go with an 2008 yfz450 fcr39 and it just would not work,,So i called Eddie and bought a fcr39mx,,,Okay i am excited now.......Full speed ahead..

  • HOOD

Posted 17 July 2009 - 04:38 PM

#8

I have a FCR-mx off of a first year YZF250, removable bell, non-cast throttle hookups, TPS, and hotstart. 37mm. looks exzactly like the one I bought from the TT store except for the hot start and TPS. I ordered the adapter bell from SUDCO and dropped it off to Ron at RHC and he's boring it to 40mm. Going to run the same setup as the one I bought from TT store.

  • robklx400

Posted 17 July 2009 - 04:49 PM

#9

I bought an FCR from a yamadog w/a removable bell. It worked great for a little while, but an old carb is not worth the money in the long run. Mine had grooved out roller tracks that broke the slide. A new slide is $130, so I bought the FCR MX kit from TT.
So, if you buy a carb from some other source, make sure it's not wore out.:rant:

  • R-CMAN

Posted 17 July 2009 - 05:00 PM

#10

For anyone who buys this eBay Fcr-Mx carb here is what you need to do;

*Fcr-Mx Carb off eBay* http://cgi.ebay.com/....6%3A2%7C39%3A1 ***FYI if you submit a "best offer" he'll sell it for $300 shipped!!!***

Buy the following oem Suzuki parts;
P/N 13111-29F00 OEM Suzuki E Intake Manifold $13.48
P/N 09402-58208 OEM Suzuki Clamp $3.44
P/N 13685-29F00 OEM Suzuki Vacuum Port Nipple $7.33

JD Jetting kit; 165 main, 42 Pilot, red JD needle 4th clip down, 85 starter jet, 70 pilot air jet, quickshot 2 AP cover, Merge AP spring, Tokyo Mod Fuel Screw (or the like) and float bowl drain bolt. (1) turn out on fuel screw. (1) turn in on AP screw.

I also have 3x3 mod, full Yoshimura carbon/ss exhaust with baffle/spark arrestor removed, K&N air filter.

This carb has NO popping on decel and starts without using your choke or pumping the throttle. It idles PERFECT and has NO BOG off idle.

Posted Image

  • craigs449

Posted 17 July 2009 - 07:38 PM

#11

fcr 39 from a 2000 e-model

155 main
200 main air
emn needle clip #3
45 pilot jey
2 turns out fuel screw


straight from eddie himself:thumbsup:

Little decel popping lets cagers know i'm approaching:smirk: :p

  • Debi

Posted 17 July 2009 - 11:15 PM

#12

TT FCR
160 main jet
200 main air jet
EMN needle
clip 3
45 pilot jet
remove pilot air jet
2 turns fuel screw ( Merge extended fuel screw)
Merge AP spring
MRD/SSW
3x3
K&N
Posted Image

Still tweaking but ....WOW:p

  • Eddie Sisneros

Posted 18 July 2009 - 05:11 AM

#13

a correctly jetted fcr will require choke on cold start up and pop on decel.

  • Debi

Posted 18 July 2009 - 05:18 AM

#14

Eddie Sisneros said:

a correctly jetted fcr will require choke on cold start up and pop on decel.

Mine does both...needs choke and pops on decel :smirk:

  • Tard2020

Posted 21 July 2009 - 07:18 PM

#15

Is there another way to tell if your jetting is on? My "E" has no running issues, but I'm not sure if it could be better. Nothing to compare it to.

  • lynk

Posted 22 July 2009 - 05:40 AM

#16

Tard, the only true way to verify your jetting is to take the bike to a dyno and measure lambda values (A/F ratio) at various throttle positions, under load. Mind you, the dyno needs to have similar environmental conditions as your typical riding environment. Ideally, the readings should be taken at the same temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity as your day-to-day.

  • eddie odell

Posted 22 July 2009 - 07:58 AM

#17

lynk said:

Tard, the only true way to verify your jetting is to take the bike to a dyno and measure lambda values (A/F ratio) at various throttle positions, under load. Mind you, the dyno needs to have similar environmental conditions as your typical riding environment. Ideally, the readings should be taken at the same temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity as your day-to-day.

This is why here in the Indy area, being a huge motorsports arena with countless bike, nascar,pro drag, open wheel, etc.etc. racing teams here. Many teams use the trailer-ed dyno set ups because its not valuable data when ran in an air conditioned shop at 68* when it's 94 outside with a very high RH :thumbsup: (water grains per pound of fuel) out side where the machine will be competing.

  • eddie odell

Posted 22 July 2009 - 08:17 AM

#18

eddie odell said:

This is why here in the Indy area, being a huge motorsports arena with countless bike, nascar,pro drag, open wheel, etc.etc. racing teams here. Many teams use the trailer-ed dyno set ups because its not valuable data when ran in an air conditioned shop at 68* when it's 94 outside with a very high RH :thumbsup: (water grains per pound of fuel) out side where the machine will be competing.

Tard - This is also why I have so much sensory data on my bike some call gadgets. Dyno runs are great, but what do you do with the numbers once you have them from the dyno. Dyno #'s to me are considered an output source, while AFR, EGT, HG's, RPM's, TPS, MFS's, and atmospheric gauges are considered to be input sources that generated the dyno or output #'s in the first place. Basically speaking, if you could ride or dyno your bike thousands of feet deep down in cave while breathing cold, dense dry air, your bike would run its best. But this is not reality.

  • garrysimmons

Posted 27 July 2009 - 04:05 AM

#19

Eddie Sisneros said:

a correctly jetted fcr will require choke on cold start up and pop on decel.

I can get my freshly installed TT-FCR39 to start without choke, but it doesn't like it. Started great w/ choke before bolting my 3.9 tank in place. Problem is, when bolted down, my Clarke 3.9 interferes with the choke, so I guess the carb is coming off again for the choke mod. I get a nice burble on decel, but not really any popping.

I have the recommended jetting installed (160 main, EMN needle, etc w/ Yosh RS exhaust, 3x3, 2000' elev +/- 1000 ft). What jetting change would you recommend since the carb will be coming off for the choke mod and to install an extended fuel mix screw. FWIW, the bike runs fine, but isn't quite as crisp as I'd expect. Did the o-ring mod too.

  • eddie odell

Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:46 AM

#20

garrysimmons said:

I can get my freshly installed TT-FCR39 to start without choke, but it doesn't like it. Started great w/ choke before bolting my 3.9 tank in place. Problem is, when bolted down, my Clarke 3.9 interferes with the choke, so I guess the carb is coming off again for the choke mod. I get a nice burble on decel, but not really any popping.

I have the recommended jetting installed (160 main, EMN needle, etc w/ Yosh RS exhaust, 3x3, 2000' elev +/- 1000 ft). What jetting change would you recommend since the carb will be coming off for the choke mod and to install an extended fuel mix screw. FWIW, the bike runs fine, but isn't quite as crisp as I'd expect. Did the o-ring mod too.

Have you confirmed your a/p squirt yet?



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