Servicing the front forks?


10 replies to this topic
  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 13, 2009 - 03:45 PM

#1

Well I have studied the manual,watched videos on YouTube from rocky mountain and Motosport and I have even bought the Powersport video on servicing the front forks and shock for my 06 450f.

Now that I have all the proper tools for the job and a good heavy duty vise with RaceTech soft jaws for holding the fork tube and damper. My question is?

When replacing the oil in the forks do I need to seperate the inner and outer tube? I know the answer will probally be no but I was wondering if you have to seperate it in order to clean out the chamber with brake cleaner to make sure everything is clean.

If Iam going to change the fluid I wont the inside to be clean when I replace with new fork fluid.

I would like to also check the bushings to see if they still have the teflon coating on the inside but dont wont to if I cant reuse the seals.

I mainly wont to change the fluid but would also like to check the bushings and clean everything up but at the same time be able to use the same seals if everything looks ok. Just put them back on along with the bushings and add new fluid and be done.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 13, 2009 - 10:07 PM

#2

Well I went ahead and changed the fork oil. I did not seperate the inner and outer tubes. I took the inner cartaridge out and the rod with the lock nut on it out and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and blowed it dry with a air hose.

I did everything according to the manual and by some of the videos and everything went ok all but one small thing.

I noticed after everthing was together that when I was screwing the clicker all the way in on the bottom of the fork(adjuster nut) I noticed it would click 23 times in and 23 times out.

I know it is just suppose to max out at 20 clicks fully in and fully out.

My guess is that I turned the lock nut to far up which allowed the adjuster bolt to go futher up in the bottom of the fork which gave me three extra clicks. The top clickers on top the fork tube are correct (20 clicks fully in and out). Its just the bottom clicker that is off by three clicks.

I used grayracers advice in that one post he refered me to about the lock nut and the adjuster nut about the gap between the two. I did like it said and screwed the lock nut all the way up till it stoped turning and then screwed the adjuster nut on till it stoped turning and then screwed the lock nut back down onto the adjuster nut and torqued to spec which was 21Ft pounds.

How did I gain three extra clicks?

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 14, 2009 - 06:54 AM

#3

Went back down in the basement this morning to check the clicker again on the left fork(front brake fork) and noticed it would only go in 4 clicks from fully turned out(where I left it at last night).

Did I tighten the adjuster nut to tight? I tightened it to torque spec. I thought to myself I will take the adjuster nut back off but first I need to loosen the top cap and drain the outer chamber oil.

So I loosened the top cap and turned the fork upside down and unscrewed the adjuster nut and took it off and took out the push rod. Turned the fork back up and then some fork fluid came pouring out the hole so I quickly turned the fork back upside down.

Unscrewed the top cap and drained the oil in to the ratio cup. I didnt catch the same amount that I had put in it last night so the oil that came out at the adjuster screw hole was from the outer chamber.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 14, 2009 - 08:33 AM

#4

I noticed after everthing was together that when I was screwing the clicker all the way in on the bottom of the fork(adjuster nut) I noticed it would click 23 times in and 23 times out.

I know it is just suppose to max out at 20 clicks fully in and fully out.

My guess is that I turned the lock nut to far up which allowed the adjuster bolt to go futher up in the bottom of the fork which gave me three extra clicks. The top clickers on top the fork tube are correct (20 clicks fully in and out). Its just the bottom clicker that is off by three clicks.

How did I gain three extra clicks?

22/23 is normal. Be certain the adjuster is backed all the way out while you run the rebound adjuster onto the rod, otherwise, it won't run up as far as it should.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 14, 2009 - 09:22 AM

#5

22/23 is normal. Be certain the adjuster is backed all the way out while you run the rebound adjuster onto the rod, otherwise, it won't run up as far as it should.


I did and it is. One other thing I might add is I noticed before I started changing the oil in it last night when I was getting ready and was backing out the rebound clicker that when I was at like two clicks being from fully turned out the whole adjuster nut was turning.:worthy:

The adjuster nut was loose. I checked the other fork and it was the same (adjuster nut was loose). I hadnt even touched this fork yet.

Did they forget to tighten the nut when they last serviced my forks or is it suppose to be loose and not torqued to 40 ft pounds like the manual calls for?

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  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 14, 2009 - 01:22 PM

#6

I guess everything is ok. The clickers are all working and I have the right amount of oil in each fork and I went ahead and torqued the adjuster nut to the fork at 40ft pounds (per the manual) after I got both forks back in the clamps.

As far as I can tell the suspension in the forks feels pretty good. Cant really tell just off the stand. Guess I will have to wait til this saturday and see.

One thing that was kinda confusing through this whole thing was......... The right fork had a gap in between the locknut and the adjuster nut. I even had the lock nut screwed all the way up as far as it would go.

The left fork didnt have a gap between the lock and adjuster nut and I screwed the lock nut all the way up on the rod also.:worthy:

  • grayracer513

Posted July 14, 2009 - 01:26 PM

#7

... The right fork had a gap in between the locknut and the adjuster nut. I even had the lock nut screwed all the way up as far as it would go.

The left fork didnt have a gap between the lock and adjuster nut and I screwed the lock nut all the way up on the rod also.:worthy:

Sounds like you did something wrong.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 16, 2009 - 08:25 AM

#8

[quote name='grayracer513']Sounds like you did something wrong.[/QUOTE]

NO!.... You just dont understsand what Iam saying. After I completed the left fork I left no gap space between the locknut and adjuster nut (per grayracer).

Before I started the work on the right fork,after loosening the top cap and then loosening the adjuster bolt I compressed the fork to expose the locknut so I could place the fork tool under it. I then noticed there were a small gap between the locknut and adjuster nut.The gap was the distance that it called for in the manual.

So per grayracer.........I backed the locknut all the way back as far as it would go and set it the same as the left fork (no gap).

Although before doing all of this I serviced my forks first.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 16, 2009 - 08:42 AM

#9

Sounds like you did something wrong.[/QUOTE]

NO!.... You just dont understsand what Iam saying.

I rarely do.

One more time:

http://www.thumperta...008#post8002008

  • Wiz636

Posted July 16, 2009 - 09:51 AM

#10

I rarely do.


Almost blew my coffee on the keyboard on that one...

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 16, 2009 - 12:36 PM

#11

[quote name='grayracer513'][quote name='CaptainKnobby']I rarely do.

One more time:

http://www.thumperta...008#post8002008[/QUOTE]

[quote name='grayracer513'][quote name='CaptainKnobby']I rarely do.
One more time:

http://www.thumperta...008#post8002008[/QUOTE]

Here I will explain it so a TWO year old can understand.

Before I even took the forks off the bike....... I went ahead and loosened everything(top cap,bottom adjuster-nut).

Took the fork off the bike and then took top cap off and drained the fluid. Put topcap back on(did not titen) fliped it upside down and compressed the fork to expose the lock-nut and the took the tusk fork tool a put it under the lock-nut to hold the adjuster-nut up.

Took the adjuster-nut off and then took push rod out and compressed fork and took out fork tool and lowered rod back down in tube. Took top cap back off then took inner cartridge out cleaned everything.

Put new fluid back in inner cartridge and bled and then done the following

http://www.thumperta...008#post8002008[/

The clickers are working now the way they are supposed to 20 clicks out and 20 fully in. Just for some reason they were acting crazy for awhile.

How I got the left fork straightened out was I took the adjuster nut back off and made sure the clicker screw was backed all the way out. On the left fork it wasnt. But before I took the adjuster nut off the very first time(when I first started working on it) I knowed for a fact I backed that clicker screw all the way out before I even loosened the topcap on the forks.

How it got screwed back in I have no Idea but it was in about half way. So I couldnt have done anything wrong because they are working now and I rode the bike today and the forks felt better than they ever have.

Actually they feel just like they did when I first had them revalved. I guess they needed the fluid changed in them. I changed the fluid in them cause they were getting to feel weak almost like the bushings were about gone but I knew that couldnt be cause it hadnt been hardly 30 hours since I had new ones put in.

Now that I know how to work on my forks now I will change the fluid in them more often and will be able to change the seals and bushings.





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