Should I stay away from anything that doesn't specifically say "motorcycle oil"?

I have limited choices in my area. Though I did find some V-Twin motorcycle oil at the grocery store. Mobil1 I think.

I need to do the oil change tomorrow and don't have time to order oil.

Yes you should try to get m/c oil if you have time. M/C oil has chemical provisions in it for your clutch and especially your trans. If it wont be in there for long then its OK, as clean car oil is better than over due carbonized bike oil. Change it A.S.A.P.

eddie odell said:

I get Amsoil 20/50 and pick it up locally...for $20 a year membership you can get a dealer price on all the oils they sell. I buy for my cars and 20-50 for my DRZ. The 20-50 is under $8 a quart and I will call it at their warehouse in my home town.
A case of 12 is just over $100 with tax at Amsoil but the dealer gets $12.99 Qt. I have seen many tests and every one shows Amsoil at the top or near the top. For $8 a qt. you can afford to change it a lot...I do 1000 mi. changes and it is still shifting great when I change it.

Regalman said:

Compatibility issue with the clutch. I have been strongly advised not to use synthetic in that bike by my mechanic and members of this forum because synthetic is too slippery for the old skool clutches in this and other vintage thumpers.

Yes, most of the trendy new oils are a joke... as far as their marketing and price. They probably barely change the additive package and then throw a designer label on it. However, that doesn't mean its a bad oil. I'm sure the Mobil 1 20W50 Vtwin oil would be fine for the DRZ.

Regalman said:

Ok since your not getting sucked in what about this oil. I was told to use it by you once....

It's a tough call... the vegatable version is 100% natural, but its also a light so it has a much lower viscosity. That might be OK if you live in Alaska, but since you live where it gets warm now and then I think I'd go for a 50/50 mix of corn and sunflower. I have heard however that the corn version can cause clutch slippage with the recluse so if you are running that, go with the sunflower only.

eddie odell said:

I thouht it was the other way around. 50 in the summer, 20 in the winter.??

Regalman said:

Funny you mention that, 'cause I usually rub-off a couple rattlesnakes at a time, and mix in their spooge with the Rotella for extra lubricant.

That combination, coupled with my "life saving" LOUD MRD pipe works wonders!

Yokomo said:

Oil is more viscous (thicker) at colder temps and less viscous at warmer ones.

Thank you all again.

Just trying to avoid the dealer's 'cause the parts guy and service counter guy treat me like a dirt bag. I had to go in twice to get everything for my first oil change. 3 times for the second oil change.

Among other problems that caused me to have to return again and again, they gave me the wrong oil twice. My buddy noticed before we left the showroom the first time, the second time I had to drive back again. They said it was my fault for grabbing the wrong oil off the counter, when in fact you can only grab what the parts guy puts in front of you. He had actually given me one quart of the right stuff and one quart of ATV oil, I had only bothered to check one. Luckily I noticed before beginning the oil change.

Took me 4 trips and being treated like a prick on the phone to get a bar end replaced (they were both loose when I got the bike, I thought they were supposed to spin freely so left them that way). Would have been way cheeper just to buy one.

The owner seems like a great guy though, sales guys too, and the newer parts guy for that matter.

Anyhow I ended up doing my 600mi maintenance myself and plan on avoiding that place like the plague for fear of another unnecessary headache.

My last two oil changes I used Motul 300v full esther synthetic changed at 1000 mile intervals but I notice the shifting is a bit more notchy than when I use the cheap Valvoline 20w-50 4-stroke motorcycle oil from AutoZone. And at $50 a gallon that blows! I think I'm going to go back to the Valvoline and 500 mile change intervals. Even though I'll be changing the oil twice as often it will still be cheaper than the Motul.

ToadKilla said:

If you get treated poorly I would resort to online parts stores... they are cheaper usually and all you have to do is think ahead a little. Personally, I would let the owner and sales guys know and not go back again....too many choices these days to put up with below average service. It's the only power the buyer has....and it works.

I called TT about some parts and they were super friendly, loved it!

I too was looking for good oil from Auto Zone-like stores. Synthetic, I have ideas now so it's time to go there to see what they have

Yokomo said:

I've had nothing but good results with Amsoil.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G-2156.pdf

I'm still using Mobil1 Gold cap 15w-50 non motorcycle specific... I've never had any problems with it and I can get it anywhere. It actually has less moly than the old red cap that billions of people used to use before they stopped making it. I change every 1000 miles anyway so it's complete overkill.

ManimalOfNature said:

I have done the same since, and got what I needed.

• • •

I know it's been a while but I have to ask about this API code thing. What numbers would be right for the my SM?

Thanks in advance Eddie or anyone who can answer.

eddie odell said:

ovrrdrive said:

DO NOT USE MOBIL IN YOUR DRZ!!!!

Mobil 1 oils contain sulfur compounds as high pressure lubricants, and they WILL eat "Yellow metals." And guess what?... the copper windings in your stator are considered "Yellow Metal."

Most stators are not wet like in our DRZ's, but they are in Harley's. My shop (as I hate to admit here) is based off of the V-twin industry, and it is widely known in that part of the motorcycle world to not use Mobil 1 in the primary case anymore. Even Mobil has changed their labeling to reflect that fact on thier V-twin oil.

Harley's use oil in ant least 2 places... and most of the bigger bikes use 3 oils. They have separate engine oil, in the chain or primary case, and the transmission. We can use Mobil in the engine and trans... but not in the chain case where the stator is.

Oh... also... if you using the car oil... it has Moly in it... and it can coat up your clutches. (be careful)

Just my two cents... use it for what it's worth.

AND...


I second the vote for Valvoline 20-50 4-stroke.

I've already had 3 different oils in my bike... and without a doubt... the Valvoline 20-50 is the smoothest shifting of the ones I've used. Since I bought my bike with a bad trans... and I had the indexer stick... smooth shifting is what I was looking for.

I go to the link below to buy my oil and best thing is there is no tax and when you spend over $75 there is no shipping (I tend to spend more). I have been running Maxima Synthetic in all my bikes with not one issue. I was going to rebuild my top end on my CRF250 and I found a spot less engine that really did not need a rebuild, just a valve adjustment..

http://www.motorcycl...-Extra-Oil.aspx