the reason why i rebuilt the motor is becuase the rod got seized to the crank
How did you not need to rebuild the low end then? And my guess would be to not worry about fine tuning yet, even a poorly jetted bike should start and run. What caused the original failure, it very well may be whats still wrong
the stock piston is still in good shape i just wanted to try a big bore i didn't rebuild the bottom end the only thing i have touched is the top end. as for it being on true tdc i looked down the plug hole with the valve cover off and could see the piston reach the top and right when it started going back down i stoped moving the motor and looked to see where the mark was and it all looks ok.
Do like Gray said, use a poor man's dial indicator (screwdriver) and find TDC, then take a picture of the cams and the flywheel and post them here, we can tell you for sure if it's all right.
The bike sat for about a year not running but all of the jets look clean and are not plugged i think i might look more into the valve clearances to see if they are in spec.
This would be very easy to check, and could be the problem. Were you carefull to use the exact same pads that were on each valve. If you had enough heat/wear to seize the crank, theres a good chance you also have valve issues
also how can i tell if the float valve is stuck
If you are seeing the A/C pump squirting every twist of the throttle, then you are getting gas. You can lean it over and some should start running out the overflow as well, but it sounds like your getting gas. I'd be willing to bet that whatever caused your original seizure, is still causing you problems, or you do not have the timing correct. Do not do any further mods or jetting/tuning until you know why it doesn't run.