Need help after Mod's
Posted April 04, 2003 - 05:30 AM
As far as your coil is concerned I would be very suspect of changing any electrical part based on ohmmeter readings that are slightly out of spec,I've really never seen an elec. part that was within printed specs.Unless you can visually inspect & condemn the coil I would not change it based on ohm readings that are slightly out of spec. IMHO.
An open curcuit would be grounds for replacement,coils can breakdown under a load (hard accel) & still show good when bench tested.Sadly the only way to verify some elecrical problems is to replace the component with a known good unit.
Other electrical things to check are TPS,CDI box & all engine/frame grounds & related connections.Keep plugging away
Posted April 04, 2003 - 06:59 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 09:20 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 09:41 AM
I took the coli into work along with my tester and had someone verify I was doing this correct. I did not remove the spark plug cap, resistor, and spring before doing the test. We did that, stuck a long screwdriver down in the boot to make a connection to the metal at the bottom and redid the test. Coil tests good. There is one more thing ruled out and $85 saved.
I did notice the spark plug cap was loose. I checked the archives and found that member (Rich in Orlando) had similar problems due to loose cap. I can only hope that is what it ends up being. I am already on system overload, my head is going to explode, but I will look into the valves etc next.
Thanks again for stickin with me through this.
Posted April 04, 2003 - 10:13 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 10:26 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 10:46 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 10:53 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 11:05 AM
Posted April 04, 2003 - 11:31 AM
I will get another plug and check.
Posted April 04, 2003 - 03:18 PM
Posted April 05, 2003 - 03:29 PM
I am afraid my manual doesn't have any voltage check on the TPS in it. I have done all the checks per manual and they are all ohm resistance. I am feeling pretty comfortable about the TPS.
This is where I'm at now.
When I took the bike out this spring to start it up, it had a bad bog at idle when snapping the throttle. I figured the carb needed a good cleaning because I didn't drain the gas when storing it.
So I cleaned it, left everything else alone (jetting and did no mod's). I did put in a new plug and gas though. It ran worse. This tells me I put something back together in the carb incorrectly. I should have just rechecked the carb from here but I decide to change the jetting and do the Taffy mod. Bike runs the same as previous jetting (bad). So I am thinking the carb did need a good cleaning but I put it back together wrong. I rechecked the slide and plate and there are no cracks. The needle valve and float are in good shape and in spec. I have tripple checked the Taffy Mod and I am real close to a .5 second squirt durration. The only thing I am not sure of is the adjuster screw and locknut inside the carb at the top. Looks like it slightly adjusts the slide height. Right now the slide plate (engine side) is about the thickness of a dime above the bottom of the carb. There are a couple posts about this adjuster screw. One response by Taffy says the slide plate (engine side) should be at the bottom of the carb.
I will do this next. If this doesn't work I am afraid the next step will be a mechanic. Hate to do that after all the time I have put into it. I have a ride coming up the first of May and I'm afraid if I get into the valve adjustment and so on, I will mess something else up and not know where to turn.
I will let you know how the slide adjutment works.
Posted April 06, 2003 - 04:58 AM
There are 3. 2 in the accelerator pump, 1 on the fuel screw. There is also the rubber gasket between the air horn and the carb body, where your main AIR jet and pilot AIR jet sit.
On your fuel screw, the order is drop the spring on the screw, then the washer, then the o-ring. Then the screw inserts into the carb.
You checked your float height?
No air leaks, either on the carb, airbox boot or rubber manifold that connects the carb to the engine?
Unless I am sadly mistaken, there should be a slight gap at the bottom of your slide w/ the throttle closed. Without that gap, the engine cannot draw in enough air at idle.
I really hate to see you bring the bike/carb into an OFFICIAL YAMAHA DEALER. I know more about my bike than those guys do.
Posted April 06, 2003 - 05:54 AM
Posted April 06, 2003 - 11:17 AM
Is that 2 or 3 O-Rings in the accelerator pump? I have the 2 small O Rings in there. All other O Rings are in. Float height is in spec.
Hot Start is good.
This is where I am now, I think I'm getting close.
I tightend the adjuster screw and locknut (adjuster screw first) inside the top of the carb last night all the way down putting the slide plate at the bottom of the carb. I put the carb back on and almost tightened everything when I noticed the airhorn carb joint wasn't all the way on the carb. I pushed it on all the way and tightened everything down. When I started it later this morning it started with a couple kicks with choke on. I was letting it warm up when it died after about 1 minute idleing. Then it wouldn't start with the choke on. It would almost start with the hot start. It started with 1 kick with both choke and hot start. I could then turn the hot start off, but it would die if I turned choke off also. So I had to turn idle screw as far as I could clockwise (make idle faster) before I could turn choke off. It still wouldn't idle very good after doing that. The only way it ran good was to turn idle down and have choke on.
This is telling me it is too lean???
My thoughts now are that I had an air leak at the airhorn and carb before I adjusted the slide plate down to bottom of carb (and that was my problem not the slide plate), and I should readjust the slide up a little???
Maybe now it is just a matter of adjusting the fule screw???
I am at the same jetting setup as LarryCo.
I would really like to know for sure how to adjust the slide plate with the adjuster screw and locknut.
Posted April 06, 2003 - 11:58 AM
My 2000 WR400 was doing the same thing and I was blamming jetting. I spent weeks on my jetting. It ended up being the coil was not grounding to the frame. I cleaned the tabs on the frame and cleaned the coil tabs and tightened it down and my bike run better. I also cleaned the bottom wire mount. I don't know if this will help you or not but it help me.
Posted April 06, 2003 - 01:21 PM
Is that 2 or 3 O-Rings in the accelerator pump? I have the 2 small O Rings in there.
just 2 in the accelerator pump (AP). You are all set.
If you need both the bypass and choke here is what's going on:
The hot start is porting air directly from you airbox around your carb to your engine's intake. As for choke, you are getting extra fuel. If your slide is bottomed out in your carb's throat, you will need to raise it up a bit.
Posted April 07, 2003 - 07:32 AM
Posted April 07, 2003 - 08:30 AM
Posted April 07, 2003 - 10:25 AM