Stator removal 06 450


16 replies to this topic
  • SimonSaysHello

Posted June 27, 2009 - 03:51 AM

#1

Just wondering how hard is it to remove the stator?
and where do the wires from it run to? do they unclip?
I'm looking to send mine to Baja for the mod to finish
my street legal project.

  • stevenacarter77

Posted June 27, 2009 - 05:14 AM

#2

you will need a flywheel removal tool, repair manual and time to read it so that you can put it back together!! and its not hard at all.

  • jhmotard

Posted June 27, 2009 - 06:45 AM

#3

may i ask why your sending it to Baja? the stock WR stator has enough juice....

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted June 27, 2009 - 12:28 PM

#4

you will need a flywheel removal tool, repair manual and time to read it so that you can put it back together!! and its not hard at all.


You do not need to remove the fly wheel to pull the stator on an 06 WR. I just replaced my stock stator (with the floated ground) for a ricky stator. I took detailed pictures if you can wait, ill post them up later this afternoon.

  • SimonSaysHello

Posted June 27, 2009 - 12:32 PM

#5

Hi Gone450,
I had read some where on these forums that you can't run high beam with stock stator they didn't give a reason why so i emailed Baja and they said to do the stator mod and run everthing off the battery right now I have DRC602 rear turn signals and zeta hand gaurd turn signals in the front and a 07 WR tail light on a 05 yz fender the wiring is easy just dont know what to do with the head light I also thought about a HID light but I guess those are DC and I havent found a hi/low beam one.
Thanks for the help

  • SimonSaysHello

Posted June 27, 2009 - 12:34 PM

#6

That would be awsome 123BigCoopDawg576

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted June 27, 2009 - 12:54 PM

#7

That would be awsome 123BigCoopDawg576


http://www.thumperta...663#post8285663

Hers is a picture of what is should look like after you remove the side cover

Posted Image

Here is a close up of the stock stator with the floated ground

Posted Image

  • SimonSaysHello

Posted June 27, 2009 - 08:12 PM

#8

Thanks 123BigCoopDawg576 for the pictures that helps alot

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  • stevenacarter77

Posted June 27, 2009 - 08:16 PM

#9

You do not need to remove the fly wheel to pull the stator on an 06 WR. I just replaced my stock stator (with the floated ground) for a ricky stator. I took detailed pictures if you can wait, ill post them up later this afternoon.


you are right!!! i was wrong!!!!!! (1st time lol):worthy:

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted July 17, 2009 - 09:17 AM

#10

Thanks 123BigCoopDawg576 for the pictures that helps alot


You also might want to check out this thread

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=438469

  • William1

Posted July 17, 2009 - 09:35 AM

#11

FWIW, when you re-install the wire grommet, do not use RTV or gasket crap, use ThreeBond/YamaBond/ect and then just a tiny amount.

Be sure to clean the stator after dremeling. I just use masking tape on the stator and leave an oping just big enough to do the work, keeps filings out of the nooks and crannies and further protects the delicate varnish on the stator windings.
Lastly, when making the connection, solder it inside a butt barrel and use a Nomex or other sleeve on it. It should be heat and oil resistant. Plain old shrink wrap is really not up to the task.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted July 17, 2009 - 09:52 AM

#12

FWIW, when you re-install the wire grommet,use ThreeBond/YamaBond/ect and then just a tiny amount


Isnt that the truth...BTW like my bookmark for the thread I linked :worthy:

Thanks again!

  • 2FlatsandBent

Posted July 17, 2009 - 03:31 PM

#13

Hi Gone450,
I had read some where on these forums that you can't run high beam with stock stator they didn't give a reason why...


Most states require that all the electrical (headlight, brake light, horn, etc) work without the motor being on so that means the AC headlight on the WR must be converted, via stator mod or aftermarket, to run DC from the battery.
When you get an inspection in Va. for instance, they run you through everything with the motor off. Some states also require that the lights will stay on for a certain amount of time.

  • William1

Posted July 17, 2009 - 04:40 PM

#14

VA does not require the headlight to operate with the engine off, most staes do not. The all require the taillight to operate with the engine off. Tail light must operate for 30 minutes though no one ever checks it.

  • 2FlatsandBent

Posted July 20, 2009 - 10:25 AM

#15

VA does not require the headlight to operate with the engine off, most staes do not. The all require the taillight to operate with the engine off. Tail light must operate for 30 minutes though no one ever checks it.


After some quick checking I see you’re right about the headlight not having to come on while the engine is running. I was questioning Baja Designs about the stator mod and that’s the reason they gave for it. Plus, since every bike I’ve owned until my ‘new to me’ WR has had fully operational lighting via the key and thus every inspection I’ve had has been done with the motor off, I suppose I just assumed that’s how it had to work.
I also was not able to find in the Motor Vehicle Safety Rules and Regulations any requirement for the tail light to have to turn on while the motor is off so I called a few inspection stations. Everyone I spoke with said the lights do not have to be able to turn on without the motor. So that's cool.
Perhaps you can answer the stator mod part of simonsayshello’s Q because now I’m wondering too. I’m guessing now that it’s more trouble/ hard to find a dual filament AC bulb as well as rig an AC switch and high beam indicator light. Not to mention the WRs headlamp isn’t SAE.

Looks like what we have to have for inspection in Va is: approved high and low beam, high beam indicator, tail light that comes on when headlight is on, brake light actuated by front brake and rear brake independently*, license plate light (white), a horn and a mirror.


* Although the wording is “when the brake control foot pedal or hand grip brake control device is activated”. This could be interpreted as ‘either / or’ but I think it may mean both b/c of the following sentence of the code: “On motorcycles manufactured prior to January 1, 1972, the activation of the front wheel brake control device is not required to activate the stop lamp”.

  • William1

Posted July 20, 2009 - 12:46 PM

#16

Almost all headlight bulbs are AC, as well as most indicators. As long as the bulbs are incandescent, you will be fine.
The reasons for doing the stator mod multi-fold:
1) Have all the electrical power one type, this provides more overhead (watts) I could explain it in more detail but I'd be typing for an hour.
2) Because of the above, you can run a large output headlight bulb
3) Because it runs off the battery and the engine charges the battery, the headlight is just as bright at idle as it is at speed.
4) Because of #1, you may have extra watts you can use for other things.

There is more but these are the biggies.

Depending on who does your inspection, you really need very little to pass in VA.
Brake light switch on the rear brake
Horn
Mirror

Most will pass the stock headlight as it does have a hi/low and allow you to use the stock tail light as it does have a brake light. You will need to add a license plate light though.

I've never had to have more.

  • 2FlatsandBent

Posted July 20, 2009 - 01:08 PM

#17

Thanks, that all makes sense. The electric system is a big weak point for me but I’m starting into some studying to try to rectify that.




 
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