Just bought a 2009 KLR 650

[eightarches]

Looking for some proven add ons.

Experienced Enduro Rider. Will be using bike mostly touring mountain areas.

Seanic Highways, Forest Roads, and Gravel Roads. Mostly Weekend Get aways.

I'm thinking

Bark Busters

Crash Bars

Skid Plate

Tail Bag

Saddle Bags

Extend Wind Shield

Any thought, experiences, or recommend products or brands.

Thanks in advance

[picard]

Welcome Eightarches,

we (my wife and I) use our KLR for the same thing (often 2up). I have the Happy Trails setup (nerf bars, skid plate and hwy pegs) and like it. pretty hefty stuff. My 2008 was practically new when I bought it and the PO had put Caribou bags on it - very sturdy and a nice fit, but expensive. We don't use a tail bag since we strap our tent and other stuff onto the back. The OEM plate works well this way.

Mine also came with a higher windscreen (National Cycle) but I don't like it. I'm 6'2" and it causes strong buffeting - would rather have the stock screen.

I also have raising links on the bike to facilitate 2-up riding with stuff. Without these the rear is too soft.

You will also want to do the "$0.22 mod" and replace your doohickey spring

Good info on klrworld.com and klr650.net

Have fun with the bike.

[broncobowsher]

You should upgrade the "doohickey".

That is not a joke. The KLR is nearly bulletproof, but does have an arkelys heal. Eagle Mike has the best Doohickey (there are bad clones out there now so watch out for those). Some Doohicky searches will come up with what happens if not upgraded. Known flaw that Kawasaki has never addressed.

[great08]

The "Doohickey" is a lot beefier than the Pre-08. I changed my doo while next to an older bike and the difference was that my spring's coils were about twice as thick and my doo was 2-3 times thicker. I had around 7500 miles on my bike at the time and the springs tension was almost done after two adjustments. That is the main complaint with the new gen bikes. After a few adjustments the spring is to long.

Klrworld.com and Klr650.net are wonderful places with ppl who have vast knowledge and experiences and opinions on the different aspects of this bike.

I would recommend the Thermo Bob if you are planning on keeping your bike for a serious amount of time. Especially before your engine breaks in completely. Here... http://www.members.cox.net/watt-man/TB%20order1.htm

Here are some links to vendors...

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productlist/653/

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4840552&showprevnext=1

http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650%20'08-.aspx

http://www.day-long.com/new_pages/options.html#backrest

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html

http://www.dual-star.com/

http://www.tpi4x4.com/TPImotorcycleparts.html

http://www.digitalprovisions.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=FARKLEMASTER&Category_Code=KLR

Twisted Throttle, motorcycle superstore, and Dual Star are my most used. If you need more links to other sites I have many more.

Cee Bailey makes a good windshield that no-one really complaines about. I like mine a whole lot and am in fact on my second one. So if someone is wondering if I would buy again I would have to say Yes I already have and would again.

There are some serious luggage options available. Caribou Cases is OK but If I were you and wanted those bags... then I would just buy a rear luggage rack and buy some Pelican cases and cut out the middle guy who makes some serous profit off of others. That is all the caribou luggage is. Military grade pelican cases.

I have the SW Motech crash bars and center stance and Happy Trails Skid Plate. I would buy those again as well.

I have the Jesse Luggage aluminum boxes. They are some good boxes too.

I hope I helped save you many hours of searching around and dont cause you to spend months staying up late surfing the web. hehe

Happy Riding!

Marty

[honxl]

what is the doo hicky mod??? What is it replacing/improving? Do all models have this as an achilles heel?

[great08]

The "doohicky" is slang for the "Balancer Chain Adjustment Lever" (I believe is the proper term.) The 07s and earlier especially have this as an Achilles heel. The 08 and newer for the most part it is pretty good. Spring tends to be to long after a while on the newer ones. I have seen a case where the new spring broke on one guys bike. That is one out of many bikes on the KLR forums though.

Here is Eagle Mikes aftermarket doo. Made of forged steel instead of cast. If doing this mod go ahead and get the circle spring also. It's a little extra but is worth it due to how tight it is and how many more miles it lasts...

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html

When I changed my doo I was with a guy from Canada on a 06 I believe it was. At 30,000km his doo was warped and a good sized chunk of his spring was missing. His bike still ran but was really loud rattling inside. If that piece of floating metal ever catches on anything he could end up having some major damage done. He was lucky and I bet his ended up in the internal oil screen and out of harms way. Others on the older models have had their valves warped, etc. due to metal snagging here or there. Other than that the older engines are supposed to be nearly bullet proof. I have seen a few with over 100,000 miles on them.

When your engine wears out... there is an aftermarket 685cc big bore kit available for only $250. The quality is supposed to be of superior to stock with incredibly tight tolerances and the bigger piston is actually lighter and makes the engine smoother. Also, the 685 from Snitch is not supposed to use oil even at super high cruising speeds. When my engine wears out I'll be making the switch. Then when that wears out I'll be going to their 705cc conversion. Many many riders have gone this route and I have never heard a complaint.

A short while back I loaded my bike up and took off to TN and went off -roading for a few days and then returned with about 1500-2000 more miles on my odo. Measured oil usage on my bike was 4oz. So I am happy with that considering how hard I was pushing it. I just check the oil level every once and a while when traveling at high speeds.

A 16 or 17 tooth front sprocket is also available for a more hwy suitable gear ratio. Each size up lowers the rpms by about 400rpm or so at 70 mph indicated. I have a 16 on there now and seems faster 0-60 but less torque. Works perfect for me from red light to red light and long jaunts down the hwy hauling to much gear.

Hope I helped,

Marty

[Royalwapiti]

What is the $0.22 mod?

Have a 2009 with 36 miles on it : )

[great08]

The 22 cent mod is basically takeing two washers that cost 11 cent each at a hardware store and using them as spacers inside your carb to open up the fuel flow a little. Many just do the 11 cent mod to increase throttle response a little. Go to one of the KLR forums and they will have articles with pics to walk you through it step by step.

While you are at it look up the PCV mod. Can come in handy if any water were to ever get into the intake. It would keep the water from draining into your oil. Use the PCV for the 1994 chrysler LHS I believe it was. Fits perfect on both of it's ends with our stock hose size. Also seemed to give a tid bit of response off of idle and raised my rpms a bit when idleing and engine was warm... so I had to adjust.

[MantaRay67]

Just bought my first bike in 20+ years and the wife is blowing a gasket!! I had an opportunity to ride a USMC KLR while serving in Afghanistan and immediately fell in love. Waited for the 2010 but there will probably be to many changes (to include EFI) along with a steep increase in price... so, I pick up my black stealth machine tomorrow. I've already installed a MoTech Center Stand and a low profile magnetic oil drain plug at the dealership.

[Royalwapiti]

I picked up the washers for the 22 cent mod. My bike does have a backfire cackle on deceleration and it is sluggish to start so the mod should help. Just seems crazy taking a brand new bike and altering it this way.

I also installed a Signal Dynamics headlight modulator. You can see me coming now! It works on the low beam only and in high beam mode the low beam stays on and the high beam flashes. It is bright in high beam mode, I am saving that for busy traffic or highway use. Only a few people have flashed their brights at me. Most just look at me like I'm a crazy man. The Back Off XP is next for the brake lights.

If anybody ever buys a new bike take note before going too far. I read somewhere that another guy's bike came and was low on oil. So I checked mine. (It only had 55 miles on it) I think Kawasaki must only put 2 liters in them at the factory because I added 1/2 quart to mine to get it to the proper line in the sight window. I suspect a decent dealer would know that and catch it.

It now has 145 miles. Just short pleasure rides with my 14 year old son following on my old 2008 CRF230L. I was thinking adventure rides out west and to Alaska when I bought it. Not now, it is not nearly comfortable enough.

[Red08]

It now has 145 miles. Just short pleasure rides with my 14 year old son following on my old 2008 CRF230L. I was thinking adventure rides out west and to Alaska when I bought it. Not now, it is not nearly comfortable enough.

Buy a Corbin Flat seat and you can ride this bike anywhere. I did a trip to the Arctic Circle and back last June/July, 9100 miles in 30 days. I had a BMW 1200GSA along and another 2008 KLR, we 0 problems. what a great trip.

RED08

[great08]

I picked up the washers for the 22 cent mod. My bike does have a backfire cackle on deceleration and it is sluggish to start so the mod should help. Just seems crazy taking a brand new bike and altering it this way.

I had considered doing that .22 mod to my (08)bike about 12,000 miles ago but just never got around to it. Popping on decel is due to the fresh air injection on the exhaust for emissions. Burns the left over fuel. Just take that out and the popping is supposed to stop.

After around 10,500 miles I did my first valve adjustment on my bike. I know I know I was supposed to do that earlier. I just wanted my valves to have a chance to seat really well before tearing her open. I got the $100 shim kit and went to town. Everything in there was to the tightest tolerance. So... since I had the shim kit. I was able to set everything to the loosest tolerance.(this engine gets tighter as it breaks in) Now my bike starts easily without ever using the choke. No matter how long it has been sitting. Feels a little more torquey too and harder to lug. From what I hear could be 40,000 miles before I need to do it again. Maybe even longer. I'll just keep an eye on how well it runs or pop the valve cover off every 15,000 miles.

Happy Riding!

I have heard of one dude who has over 130,000 miles on his bike and claims to have never adjusted the valves. I don't believe everything I hear but don't dis-count it either.

Marty