Oil filter drain bolt stripped


29 replies to this topic
  • natehawes

Posted June 10, 2009 - 07:48 PM

#1

I decided to be a good boy and change my oil tonight. I removed the plugs, drained the oil...all was going well.

When I was reinstalling the plugs, I got a little too excited with the allen wrench on the oil filter drain plug, and I think it stripped. I can thread the bolt all the way to the bottom, but it won't get very tight. Once the bolt gets to the bottom it just spins.

The bike is a 2006 YZ 450. How do I fix this?

  • Aka.Goose

Posted June 10, 2009 - 08:14 PM

#2

Time-sert


  • grayracer513

Posted June 10, 2009 - 08:16 PM

#3

Either Heli-Coil or Time-Sert (preferred) the hole, replace the bolt, and read this:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=575367

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=634724

If the thread repair insert is long enough to close off the drain hole, you won't have to do the mod in the second link to avoid a repeat failure.

  • Mark Grant

Posted June 10, 2009 - 08:18 PM

#4

I hate when that happens!!! It's pretty easy to fix, but what a lame problem, sorry buddy.

  • natehawes

Posted June 10, 2009 - 09:24 PM

#5

Thanks guys!!! Very helpful. I had no idea about the propensity of this bolt stripping. I just thought I was too strong :thumbsup:.

Has anyone done the Timesert fix before? How easy/hard is it? Do you know what kit I need for a 2006 YZ450? Also, I need a new bolt. What size do I need?

  • grayracer513

Posted June 10, 2009 - 09:41 PM

#6

The bolt needs to be replaced with the same specific one: PN 90110-06228-00

The insert should be a M6x1.0 thread, and be about 12mm long. Time-Serts are easier to install than Heli-Coils.

  • nickeenoo

Posted June 11, 2009 - 07:18 AM

#7

If your near Southern Utah just come over and we'll fix it at my house. I already have a longer time-sert sitting in the tool box. PM me if your interested.

Nate

  • natehawes

Posted June 11, 2009 - 12:58 PM

#8

Ordered the time-sert kit today.....they are not cheap, $70 shipped. But if it fixes my problem for good then I'm happy. Should be here Monday.

  • Dube2

Posted June 11, 2009 - 08:13 PM

#9

Grayracer513 has the sweetest fix, however this is what I just a few minutes ago on my 08 and my buddies 06 WR's.

With the side case still on the bike, I retaped the thread with wheel bearing grease on the tap, traping the small leftover metal particals, running a que-tip in and twisting the que-tip counter clockwise to draw them out even more. Several times till clean and debriless. Run the new bolt into the newly threaded hole and then mix up some aluma-bond. Carefully cleaning the hole and serounding area with contact cleaner(de-greaser) and apply a fairly small amount of Alumabond and making it flush with the casting surface. Pretty sure it wont come loose. I used Alumabond on the casting before for an oil leak. WORKED LIKE A CHARM......... Looks pretty good and very confident with my fix. Now I need to break down my 05 WR and do that one too. :thumbsup:

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSC00289.jpg


  • Mark Grant

Posted June 11, 2009 - 08:19 PM

#10

Grayracer513 has the sweetest fix, however this is what I just a few minutes ago on my 08 and my buddies 06 WR's.

With the side case still on the bike, I retaped the thread with wheel bearing grease on the tap, traping the small leftover metal particals, running a que-tip in and twisting the que-tip counter clockwise to draw them out even more. Several times till clean and debriless. Run the new bolt into the newly threaded hole and then mix up some aluma-bond. Carefully cleaning the hole and serounding area with contact cleaner(de-greaser) and apply a fairly small amount of Alumabond and making it flush with the casting surface. Pretty sure it wont come loose. I used Alumabond on the casting before for an oil leak. WORKED LIKE A CHARM......... Looks pretty good and very confident with my fix. Now I need to break down my 05 WR and do that one too. :lol:


I think I would be more confident with the time-sert, sorry! :thumbsup:

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  • grayracer513

Posted June 11, 2009 - 09:36 PM

#11

Pretty sure it wont come loose.

Now, maybe you will explain why you would take this approach instead of a steel ball, which you could have been certain of?

  • Dube2

Posted June 12, 2009 - 06:59 AM

#12

Now, maybe you will explain why you would take this approach instead of a steel ball, which you could have been certain of?


As said in my origianl reply, Grayracer513 had the sweetest fix and my hats off to you, however I was just doing the lazy aproach:bonk: In order to drill the hole I would have to remove the head pipe to gain the space for the drillmotor. Could not get a strait enough shot to the hole. So I came up with another idea. 15 minutes later the Almumabond was hard as a rock.

My buddy has an 03 YZ and he used JB weld back in 04 and still the same condition today.

If I made a mistake, than my bad. Next oil change isn't too long from now. I'll take a pic of it again wether good or bad and re-post so all can see if it worked or not. It can't fall into the oil bucket because of size/shape and the screw will prevent that anyway. I'm totally sure it wont, but worst case if it comes lose, it will sit in the filter compartment. Time will tell and I'll tell you how it worked.:thumbsup:

  • Dube2

Posted June 12, 2009 - 07:34 AM

#13

I think I would be more confident with the time-sert, sorry! :thumbsup:


Sorry? don't be. We all have our own opinion and who could take offence to it. Free County and Freedom of Speach, God Bless America:usa: .

I hear you on the time-sert, but my threads weren't very bad. I mearly clenaed the threads up. I re-taped the thread on my 05 3-years ago and have changed the filter at least a dozen times and no tourqing issues whatsoever. Had they been any worse, i'd be ordering the time-sert soon.

I'll keep you posted, if I screwed(punt) up? than I'll post my findings and you all can learn from it.

  • natehawes

Posted June 15, 2009 - 05:30 PM

#14

I got the Time-Sert kit today. Now the questions. Look at this picture:

Posted Image

As you can see the threads don't start until about half way down the bolt hole. Now look at this picture:

Posted Image

You see that the tap wants to start cutting immediately. Now look at this one:

Posted Image

You will see that the insert fits into the hole, but the flange will not clear it. This means that the insert will want to seat much earlier than where the original threads started.

If you have done this fix before I hope this all makes sense. What would/have you guys do/done? My thought is to drill out the hole, DON'T use the counterbore, tap the entire tube and just let the insert flange rest on top of the lip of the existing hole. Do you think this will work?

  • icon27

Posted June 15, 2009 - 08:42 PM

#15

Grayracer513 has the sweetest fix, however this is what I just a few minutes ago on my 08 and my buddies 06 WR's.

With the side case still on the bike, I retaped the thread with wheel bearing grease on the tap, traping the small leftover metal particals, running a que-tip in and twisting the que-tip counter clockwise to draw them out even more. Several times till clean and debriless. Run the new bolt into the newly threaded hole and then mix up some aluma-bond. Carefully cleaning the hole and serounding area with contact cleaner(de-greaser) and apply a fairly small amount of Alumabond and making it flush with the casting surface. Pretty sure it wont come loose. I used Alumabond on the casting before for an oil leak. WORKED LIKE A CHARM......... Looks pretty good and very confident with my fix. Now I need to break down my 05 WR and do that one too. :thumbsup:


I like the look of this.. Did you scuff up the inside of the hole to help hold the alumi weld? I dont like the idea of punching the case to hold a bearing:bonk:

  • grayracer513

Posted June 16, 2009 - 04:50 AM

#16

I dont like the idea of punching the case to hold a bearing:bonk:

Why not?

  • Aka.Goose

Posted June 16, 2009 - 09:34 AM

#17

I like the look of this.. Did you scuff up the inside of the hole to help hold the alumi weld? I dont like the idea of punching the case to hold a bearing:bonk:

You don't actually punch the case very hard, just enough to skew it a bit...the ball bearing fits extremely tight by itself...Just be sure and use the #15 drill bit (the one used prior to tapping) and the fit is perfect, use a nail punch to tap the bearing down...Just be carefull to not let the bit take to much of a bite and go to deep, you're making a ledge for the ball to seat on...
Just did this for the second time the other day, was super easy...

  • nickeenoo

Posted June 16, 2009 - 09:47 AM

#18

In regards to the threads starting immediately on the time sert fix: I just ran the threads up the bolt a little farther, problem solved.

  • grayracer513

Posted June 16, 2009 - 10:02 AM

#19

You will see that the insert fits into the hole, but the flange will not clear it. This means that the insert will want to seat much earlier than where the original threads started.

If you have done this fix before I hope this all makes sense. What would/have you guys do/done? My thought is to drill out the hole, DON'T use the counterbore, tap the entire tube and just let the insert flange rest on top of the lip of the existing hole. Do you think this will work?

Counter bore the hole far enough to recess the insert to the original thread depth.

  • jjsmx

Posted June 16, 2009 - 10:04 PM

#20

i just had the drain hole fixed on my 426. my local Yamaha dealer used the Heli-coil. . . so far so good.





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