time to take it to a shop


11 replies to this topic
  • bdruff

Posted June 05, 2009 - 10:43 PM

#1

Enough is enough! I give. It won't start and I'm tired of fighting with it! Ive torn down the carb over and over, read the manual, kicked it countless times and asked tons of stupid questions on here. Still nothing. So... Time to take it to a shop.

I've replaced the pilot jet, the plug, checked for spark, put new gas in it, adjusted the pilot screw (This may be the problem and I know i'm not supposed to change it, but I messed it up taking it off). Checked the air vent on the gas tank, checked the petcock, made sure the float was right, made sure the hole on the slide was on the bottom. I have no idea what to do next.

My question is what I should expect to spend on repairs. The bike has always run very strong and has never given me any problems. Ive had it for about 4 years and I've put maybe 200 miles on it. I bought it from the dealership used.

Things I've gathered from reading on here are that:
1. It could be valves. I just don't think i know what im looking for with clearance and the bike has never given me any symptoms or problems untill now.

2. Could be electrical and not getting enough spark. I don't know how I would test this. I have some tools but no experience with this.

3. It is probably in my carb. i don't know how to trouble shoot this...Aparently

I'm in Fresno, California if you know of a good bike shop in the central valley. Clawson Motorsports Honda Yamaha is the biggest dealership in town.

  • Strattos

Posted June 05, 2009 - 11:04 PM

#2

Have you checked your valve clearances? I thought your problems were mainly just rough running.

If you're having trouble even getting the thing started try them. If they've closed up you will have major dramas getting it started.

  • Strattos

Posted June 05, 2009 - 11:05 PM

#3

Oops. sorry just read your post a bit closer re mention of the valves.

If you've tested for spark and you're getting a decent spark i would rule out electrical. I had some electrical dramas on my 426, but it was up higher in the rev range when the secondary resistance would be a factor. I couldn't test that. I could just check the primary - ie kicking it over by hand and checking with a multimeter.

Checking and adjusting valve clearances is sort of a regular maintenance thing for bike shops (thankfully probably not too common with the mighty WRs as they're pretty good in that department).

  • KAS

Posted June 06, 2009 - 02:08 PM

#4

Rag in the airbox?

Never hurts to ask.....

If you take it to a shop make sure and lube up your corn hole.

  • bdruff

Posted June 06, 2009 - 05:04 PM

#5

no rag in the air box... I'm almost certain its the pilot screw. I've got it all jacked up. Ive tried turning it an 1/8th turn each time but it won't kick over. I can get it to start with just a little bit of starter fluid but I cant keep it running.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 06, 2009 - 07:30 PM

#6

What part # are you referring to as the pilot screw?
And what does 'all jacked up' mean?
If you are talking about # 24 (fuel screw) , why not just replace it?
The bike usually won't run if it's no good (bent, no washer or o-ring) or it's way too lean or rich.

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  • zookrider98

Posted June 06, 2009 - 08:04 PM

#7

Have you tried bump starting the bike?

  • bobdea

Posted June 06, 2009 - 08:55 PM

#8

yeah, I have to agree with that. have someone give you a tow and pop it

if you have a 426 you really should do that, they are a BITCH to kick over if anything is wrong be it valves or your idle is not set correctly or something but they do pop start fairly easy as long as you decomp to get everything spinning.

to check the spark take a plug (since you put a fresh one in you don't need to pull it) pull off the plug wire from the plug insert a plug, lay it on the pipe or another unpainted piece of metal on the bike, zip tie down the decomp and crank the kick with your hand while looking at the plug.
assuming the timing is not ****ed you will see if there is some spark, does not mean the cdi is working properly but does mean it's doing something
if you have the happy magic button same thing but crank starter

  • bdruff

Posted June 07, 2009 - 06:26 AM

#9

The pilot screw im referring to is #24. I replaced the pilot jet also (#21). I had it running and idling perfect. I went for a ride and it cut out and died in 4th gear. I coulnd't get it started again and had to push it home. I found the vent on the gas cap was clogged and blew it out with an air compressor but that was after I tinkered with the screw again. I can get it to start with just a little starter fluid... but it still acts like its not getting gas.

  • bdruff

Posted June 07, 2009 - 07:13 AM

#10

The manual says to record exactly the position of the pilot screw because it was set individually at the factory. I didn't and now have it "all jacked up" The spring, washer, and o ring look good.

Thanks Bob... I did check for spark and it was good. Don't really know much about the CDI.

  • Mr-Brightside

Posted June 07, 2009 - 02:19 PM

#11

Had this problem myself before. Both intake valves had gone tight. Purchased a number of different shims to get the right clearance and it fired up first time. If your valves are tight it will noit start..FACT. You will be surprised what tight valves can do..check them...have you got a set of metric feeler gages?

  • bdruff

Posted June 09, 2009 - 05:24 PM

#12

got it dialed in. Valves were good. One exhaust valve was within specs but just barely. It was the float and needle valve. thanks again




 
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