why is all of my oil in my frame, and not in my motor after rebuild
Posted June 03, 2009 - 10:26 PM
i just replaced the cases and head on my 2004 wr450 i just bought it needing those. the chain broke and broke case, and when i pulled the cams out the intake cam journal was trashed (machine shop said one of the worst he's seen) being mislead by seller i ordered 07 cases cam and head which all seem to fit just fine when i swapped it all over, i rebuild the motor pull the plug on the left side of motor and dumped in 2 qts of oil (i wasn't sure of the actual capacity but 2ts seemed like enough but not too much for the maiden voyage) i hop on it to go ride it i rode it for about 10 miles, no leaks but i pulled the dipstick in the frame anyway, as soon as i cracked the threads on the dipstick it forcefully shot out and overflowed everywhere. maybe 1/4 quart was on the ground,
so i pulled the bottom drain plug..........nothing, barely a drizzle.
i popped of the clutch cover and the clutch discs are bone-dry, and black in places
whats going on here? did i miss something important? (i reallydon't think i did)
Posted June 03, 2009 - 11:06 PM
A 'little to much' oil is enough to blow a seal, so get a manual and follow it.
Posted June 04, 2009 - 05:08 AM
I am wondering if you possibly put a wrong bolt onto one of the external passages - the external passages need to be connected using Banjo bolts (special bolts drilled and machined to allow oil to flow around and through them) if you accidentally use a normal bolt, you end up blocking that passage.
Posted June 04, 2009 - 06:16 AM
Posted June 04, 2009 - 06:42 AM
(banjo bolts must be used)
the external passages need to be connected using Banjo bolts (special bolts drilled and machined to allow oil to flow around and through them) if you accidentally use a normal bolt, you end up blocking that passage.
this is the fifth time or so i have done a total engine rebuild (i.e. splitting cases etc) and yes guys i know what a banjo bolt is but my oil lines are connected with a 6mm bolt holding a machined female hole over a dowel pin with an o-ring as shown here: http://www.ronniesma...=2004&fveh=1249
i also agree that the cam wouldn't have lasted 10 miles without oil, but i do remember it taking a few kicks to start back up before i checked the oil (it started first kick when i firt hopped on) maybe the oil starvation problem was what ate the cam journals the first time
Posted June 04, 2009 - 07:56 AM
My suggestion would be:
Take off all external lines one at a time and blow them out using compressed air - blow them out into a bucket to see if they contained any crap until you are sure they are all clear and have found crap.
Your cases and head should be fine (no plugged passages) since they were replaced and are no longer old suspect parts, however, take your lid off and check how the cams/lobes/bearings/journals are looking after your 10 mile trip because you might be doing another rebuild......
Also check your frame filter (bottom of frame) it might be plugged....
Essentially - you WILL need to check that every oil line external to the bike is free of debris - you might want to check what you can internally too - there is an internal oil delivery pipe (brass I think) that also matters, plus, check everything in the oil filter area.
Posted June 04, 2009 - 11:12 AM
there is an internal oil delivery pipe (brass I think) that also matters
yeah it goes in from the clutch side through the case to the mag side, its there, and the o-rings are intact, what i am thinking is that there is a hole in the outside bearing race on the main shaft, mag side, that is supposed to line up with an oil port, which then pumps oil through the man shaft and into the clutch........maybe in all of my heating the case and pounding in the bearing, it may have rotated just enough to not line up
Posted November 08, 2009 - 04:00 PM