Free and easy klx 110 mods


6 replies to this topic
  • thevat0

Posted May 31, 2009 - 04:50 PM

#1

So heres the scenario: you bought a klx 110 and figured out that you dont want to take out a second mortgage for your pitbike. I had the same problem. At 15, with no job i dont have alot of money kickin around. I bought new front and rear sprockets, geared for power, and didnt wanna put any more money into the bike. here is my solution:


For power:

Exhaust:
I took the exhaust pipe off, but it backfired alot, and didnt sound right, so i put it back on. It does however give you a noticebale power difference. im not sure if this damages your motor. I am currently working on a homemade exhaust mod and will keep you posted.

Air filter:
dont waste $150 on a bbr filter. do this:
1:take off the left radiator shroud, and remove airbox, and the hose connecting it to the carb.
2:take the airbox apart and take out the rubber piece with the 2 holes for air. there is now an oval shaped hole.
3: take a file or a grinding drill bit and grind the hole to your desired size. then put the airbox backtogether MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE OUT THE RUBBER PIECE WITH THE HOLES,
4: Put the hose into the airbox (this is a little tricky) then bolt it back in and put the other side of the hose into the carb.
5: play around with the jets till you find what works.

The whole process is fairly simple, took around 30 minutes and has a noticeable power/top speed increase, and it sounds cool.



I have read that removing the choke will give it less air constriction, but have not done this yet. When I do I will put the steps on here.







For the pitbike look:

Remove:
-chain/sprocket guards-looks so much better - but make sure you dont get your pants or shoelaces caught in them.
-kickstand
-rubber piece off the kick starter
-rubber piece off shift lever
-rubber chainguard on stock swingarm

Move the brake lever to the left side of the handlebar (unless you installed a clutch kit) but first you will need to move the run/off switch: i took mine off the bars, then put it back together, then slid a cotter pin throught the back bracket so it was beetween both pieces. there is a little hole in the frame near your airbox, behind the left radiator shroud. i slid the cotter pin through there, from left to right, and bent the ends on the right side. This looks cool and keeps it out of the way so you dont bump it off while riding.

Tall seat:
You could buy an aftermarket tall seat, or you could save $120 and make one yourself. How?
1:take the seat off
2:take out the staples holding the cover on.
**
3:take your foam (i stole mine from my dads bed, mattress foam works well) and use a little tape to hold it in place- note: you dont want it to go all the way down, just on the top
4:restretch the cover over the seat and staple it back on. I ran out of staples but duct tape works just as well
5:done
**My rear fend was broken from dumping the bike during a wheelie. again, save yourself some money and dont buy a new one. beetween steps 2 and 3 i went out in the shop, cut the fender across the broken part, put it on the drill press and drilled 4 holes through the seat and the fender. then bolted it on.

Plastics: Instead of buying a $100 plastic kit I painted them black.you need a special paint that will not chip when the plastic flexes. I dont remember what its called, but go to your local NAPA and talk to them about it.theyll know what its called, and sell it to you.

*if you fall alot i suggest not doing this, as the paint will scrape off and look bad.

Wider footpegs/heavy duty foot peg mounts:
Doing this will save you around $200 and is a must for big riders and if you do jumps. The only difference beetween the stock footpegs is the longer screws and wide footpegs. for the screws go to NAPA (I suggest making 1 trip not 3 or 4) and get some screws that are larger then the stock screws that hold the footpegs on. dont worry, if the are too long use some washers to make it work. before you put them in you may want to put some JB weld glue on them, but be aware that if you do this the footpegs will be stuck there for, well, ever. for the footpegs you can take some long bolts, and cut the threaded ends to the length of the footpeg, then weld them, a little lower then the footpegs so you dont lose notches for grip. this will feel a little bit more secure.





As i do more mods i will post them on here. Hope I helped everyone!

  • thevat0

Posted May 31, 2009 - 04:55 PM

#2

Doing the mods above saves around $600 over buying them online.


I am working on another mod that involves puting round dowels into the forks, to see if it gives the suspension more travel. If it works, it will save around $170 because you dont have to buy stiffer springs and a new dampening rod

  • weantright

Posted June 03, 2009 - 01:16 PM

#3

Remove and cap the choke. Need the choke, lay the bike on the side for a while before you start it cold. Correct jetting and you don't need a choke unless you fall into the low 30's. Toss the back fire screen and the stock air filter. Get a Twin air and use injector oil and coat it lightly. Will need to go up about 2 jets for these mods. I did just about everything to a stock pipe and a PC Ti-4 I have runs alot better. Pulls past a piped 2009 TTR110, a stock or modified pipe will not do this.

  • thevat0

Posted June 03, 2009 - 05:56 PM

#4

yes all that is true but it also costs money. Im doin mods that can be done with spare parts & tools, and trying to help other people with the same problems, but thanks for the imput.

  • txkawboy

Posted June 12, 2009 - 11:00 AM

#5

Hey man, just cut your springs to increase their rate, usually ~5 coils is all you can do. Make spacers to make up for the missing length out of PVC pipe. I have an article on this and many other $aving tips, posted on dirtrider.net, PM, and I think on here too. Cheers!

  • thevat0

Posted June 13, 2009 - 06:08 AM

#6

thanks man

  • simmersm

Posted July 17, 2009 - 11:24 AM

#7

wow... thats all i am gonna say... gonna walk away from this one...





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