XR650L jetting



101 replies to this topic
  • crashmonkey85

Posted February 11, 2008 - 07:29 PM

#21

I have a 2007 XR650L I bought new last summer. It did quite a bit of popping on deceleration and of course felt quite corked up. I all I have tried so far is putting in a 165 main and adding the washer. That seemed to give it a little bit on response but it still pops.

I am new at this forum and see all of the opinions. Does the Dyno jet kit actually have a different needle? Is this the way to go over trying to do some simple jetting changes? If I don't plan to upgrade the exhaust right away, is a jet kit still worth getting? I believe it makes a difference which jet kit you purchase depending on things you have done to the bike.

It sounds like I need to do the smog block off kit and I do plan to get a foam air filter. What are my choices for an '07? Moose doesn't list a part number past '06.

Last but not least, who makes fuel mixture screws for this bike?

  • martinfan30

Posted February 11, 2008 - 07:40 PM

#22

The DJET needle is definately different. My thought is a certain amount of engineering went into the design of that needle for a reason. When I still ran the stock CV carb I installed the DJET kit. Great results. Even drilled the slide.

Removing the smog will help decel popping a bit. Also remove the snorkel on the air box. Typical jetting settings would be 158-160/55. I dont know of a fuel screw manufacturer, just grind the tab off the bowl. That way you can get some adjustment for your pilot circuit.

  • crashmonkey85

Posted February 11, 2008 - 08:44 PM

#23

The DJET needle is definately different. My thought is a certain amount of engineering went into the design of that needle for a reason. When I still ran the stock CV carb I installed the DJET kit. Great results. Even drilled the slide.

Removing the smog will help decel popping a bit. Also remove the snorkel on the air box. Typical jetting settings would be 158-160/55. I dont know of a fuel screw manufacturer, just grind the tab off the bowl. That way you can get some adjustment for your pilot circuit.

Is the DJET the only kit available or is it what is working for most people? What is involved with drilling the slide?

I guess I'm a little unclear on the last comment regarding grinding the tab.

  • martinfan30

Posted February 11, 2008 - 09:25 PM

#24

Is the DJET the only kit available or is it what is working for most people? What is involved with drilling the slide?

I guess I'm a little unclear on the last comment regarding grinding the tab.


The DJET kit is most common. It is sometimes sold under different brand names, but is the basic same kit. Drilling the slide, There are two outer holes that can be enlarged to 5/32". This helps the throttle response a bit.

The "tab" is a stop on the float bowl exterior that wont let you adjust the fuel screw more than 1/3 of a turn roughly. When you rejet, you WILL need to adjust the fuel screw to get your pilot circuit correct. By grinding the tab off the bowl, you now have full adjustment of the screw. It is just an emissions device and not needed.

Drilling the slide is typically done when doing "Dave's Mods". Although I did the drilling and the DJET kit with great results like I said earlier.

  • Denn10

Posted February 11, 2008 - 09:34 PM

#25

165 main on a stock engine and carb will be too rich . Might wanna step that back to 158 with stock engine. I just did daves mods and it helped a little, my mid range seems pretty good so i dont know what difference of DJ needle to stock is. Maybe someone has done both seperately so they can tell if theres much a difference to warrant buying the DJ kit

  • CReffex

Posted February 12, 2008 - 08:43 AM

#26

The DJ 165 is roughly the same as the 158 Keihen jets...
I'm running the DJ kit, 165 Main, 55 Keihen Pilot, slide drilled, top of air box cut, uni Filter, and FMF Q2 slip on... Smog blocked off. Elevation is around 500 ft.. Bike runs phenomenal... Crist throttle response, w/ no popping on decel..

The DJ needle eliminates the need for the washer as it has an adjustable clip, and it is said the design of the needle and the different spring eliminates the need to drill the slide, but I applied both... Slide drilled to 5/32 and DJ kit and am very pleased.

  • Denn10

Posted February 12, 2008 - 09:21 AM

#27

so either buy DJ kit for like $60 or do daves mods and you just need a .10 cent washer and 2 jets that cost about $4/5 each. I have aquired jets over the years so i have quite a few so i never need to buy any and actually have multiples of some thats main reason why i never even thought about buying a DJ kit.

  • crashmonkey85

Posted February 12, 2008 - 09:49 AM

#28

The question here, is the DJ kit needle a different taper design than the stocker?

I believe the stock main jet is a 160. Am I correct on this?

What is the main problem with these bikes? From looking here, it's not that they run lean if people are backing off to a 158 Keihen. Are they a little rich from the factory but mainly need the needle raised, a different main, smog block off, a filter and a new muffler?

  • martinfan30

Posted February 12, 2008 - 11:13 AM

#29

The DJ 165 is roughly the same as the 158 Keihen jets...
I'm running the DJ kit, 165 Main, 55 Keihen Pilot, slide drilled, top of air box cut, uni Filter, and FMF Q2 slip on... Smog blocked off. Elevation is around 500 ft.. Bike runs phenomenal... Crist throttle response, w/ no popping on decel..

The DJ needle eliminates the need for the washer as it has an adjustable clip, and it is said the design of the needle and the different spring eliminates the need to drill the slide, but I applied both... Slide drilled to 5/32 and DJ kit and am very pleased.


Not to start an argument....

I ran the 165 Djet in my CV carb when I first got it. It would barely run anything other than idle. WAAAY rich. So I settled on the 160 Djet, still a touch rich, but ran well.

Now with the FCR, I have settled on 158/55 as the perfect setup for my L at 4300 ft.

Just an observation.
S

  • crashmonkey85

Posted February 12, 2008 - 12:45 PM

#30

Not to start an argument....

I ran the 165 Djet in my CV carb when I first got it. It would barely run anything other than idle. WAAAY rich. So I settled on the 160 Djet, still a touch rich, but ran well.

Now with the FCR, I have settled on 158/55 as the perfect setup for my L at 4300 ft.

Just an observation.
S

maratinfan30,

Is that your L in your Avatar? Where did the blue come from?

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Denn10

Posted February 12, 2008 - 12:51 PM

#31

The question here, is the DJ kit needle a different taper design than the stocker?

I believe the stock main jet is a 160. Am I correct on this?

What is the main problem with these bikes? From looking here, it's not that they run lean if people are backing off to a 158 Keihen. Are they a little rich from the factory but mainly need the needle raised, a different main, smog block off, a filter and a new muffler?


stock on a L is not 160 main its like 150ish i think?? DJ needle is different than a stock needle from CV carb.

  • Denn10

Posted February 12, 2008 - 12:52 PM

#32

maratinfan30,

Is that your L in your Avatar? Where did the blue come from?



Hes so GHEY hes bleeding blue!!! DONT ask him about it hes REALLY SENSATIVE to that!!

  • martinfan30

Posted February 12, 2008 - 03:28 PM

#33

maratinfan30,

Is that your L in your Avatar? Where did the blue come from?


DENN is jealous..

That is just photoshop!LOL

  • XR650L_Dave

Posted February 12, 2008 - 03:50 PM

#34

The question here, is the DJ kit needle a different taper design than the stocker?

I believe the stock main jet is a 160. Am I correct on this?

What is the main problem with these bikes? From looking here, it's not that they run lean if people are backing off to a 158 Keihen. Are they a little rich from the factory but mainly need the needle raised, a different main, smog block off, a filter and a new muffler?



The DJ needle has a significantly different taper, and it has a very abrupt diameter change at one point.

Some run the DJ kit and it works great, for some it never seems quite right.

The stock XRL main jet is a 150? 152? something like that, and the 160 DJ jet is about a 158 keihin, and the 165 about a keihin 160, but those are very (very) rough equivalences.

The main XRL problem is too lean, everywhere.
Next is a very slow throttle response which is helped a little by the DJ kit, but helped a lot more with drilling the vacuum-port holes in the slide.

The stock muffler restricts the upper RPM range quite a bit, I hear. I ride mostly tight technical stuff so extra power is less important than better controllability.


Dave

  • CReffex

Posted February 12, 2008 - 05:44 PM

#35

Not to start an argument....

I ran the 165 Djet in my CV carb when I first got it. It would barely run anything other than idle. WAAAY rich. So I settled on the 160 Djet, still a touch rich, but ran well.

Now with the FCR, I have settled on 158/55 as the perfect setup for my L at 4300 ft.

Just an observation.
S



Not sure.. Because i'm only at 500 ft.. But i do have a Uni filter, w/ almost the whole top of my Airbox removed, and a Q2 w/ the baffle removed... those could be the balancing point on mine... It's probably on the rich side of just perfect, but i really wouldn't change anything....

  • Rman of 237

Posted February 12, 2008 - 08:00 PM

#36

The DJET kit is most common. It is sometimes sold under different brand names, but is the basic same kit. Drilling the slide, There are two outer holes that can be enlarged to 5/32". This helps the throttle response a bit.

The "tab" is a stop on the float bowl exterior that wont let you adjust the fuel screw more than 1/3 of a turn roughly. When you rejet, you WILL need to adjust the fuel screw to get your pilot circuit correct. By grinding the tab off the bowl, you now have full adjustment of the screw. It is just an emissions device and not needed.

Drilling the slide is typically done when doing "Dave's Mods". Although I did the drilling and the DJET kit with great results like I said earlier.

Well this thread sure came back to life!!:banghead:
I was still pretty new on TT when I bought the L. The guy I bought it from already had the Djet kit but hadn't installed it yet because he didn't know how according to his wife.:eek: She was selling all his stuff cause she caught him cheating on her. Got it for pennies on the $$. HaHaHa!!!:eek:
I rode it about 20mi back to my bro's house so I had a feel for how it rode stock. Lean? Man was it ever running lean!! I installed the kit that night and WHOA what a difference!!:foul:
The only thing I did different was instead of grinding the tab off the bowl I ground the tab off the screw itself. I couldn't fathom the reason for it and it was funny to see how everyone else does basically the same thing.:)
I wondered if drilling the slide along with the Djet kit would be too much so it's good to see that you tried it 1st.:eek: LOL Seriously though I was afraid to commit to it cause there would be no turning back.:cry: I didn't want to have to replace it if it was a failure. Oh well, time to start drillin'!!:applause:
Here's a pic of mine....

Posted Image

  • martinfan30

Posted February 12, 2008 - 10:05 PM

#37

Nice L RMAN. I also ground the tab off the screw. :applause: I found out later that if I had ground the tab off the bowl, there is alot more "finger feel" when the tab is left on the fuel screw. Oh well.

When I was using the stock CV carb, I did the DJET kit AND drilled the slide holes. I had great throttle response!

Now that I have the FCR, the throttle response is even better. Almost instant response. A step above all the CV carb mods I performed.

  • crashmonkey85

Posted February 13, 2008 - 06:11 AM

#38

I'm still looking for anyone that ones the answers to these questions:

1) Does the DJ kit needle have a different taper design than the stocker or does it just give you the clip position option?
2) What foam filters have you found for '07?
3) Where is this "Daves mods" that I have heard here?
4) What is the difference of the DJ kit spring and the stock spring?
5) I am trying to understand what the DJ kit really is and if it really is different than jetting on my own. Has anyone tried both? Does anyone have actual specs of each?

Sorry, I was on the wrong page so I see some of these things are being addressed. Thank you.

  • Rman of 237

Posted February 13, 2008 - 06:20 AM

#39

Nice L RMAN. I also ground the tab off the screw. :applause: I found out later that if I had ground the tab off the bowl, there is alot more "finger feel" when the tab is left on the fuel screw. Oh well.

When I was using the stock CV carb, I did the DJET kit AND drilled the slide holes. I had great throttle response!

Now that I have the FCR, the throttle response is even better. Almost instant response. A step above all the CV carb mods I performed.

Thanks, it's a tight bike!!
What are you talking about though when you say "FRC"? Did I miss something? If you're referring to this little $2500 peach, http://www.mcnews.co...R650RHRCkit.htm
Oh well, another day!!! HaHaHa

  • Rman of 237

Posted February 13, 2008 - 06:58 AM

#40

I'm still looking for anyone that ones the answers to these questions:

1) Does the DJ kit needle have a different taper design than the stocker or does it just give you the clip position option?
2) What foam filters have you found for '07?
3) Where is this "Daves mods" that I have heard here?
4) What is the difference of the DJ kit spring and the stock spring?
5) I am trying to understand what the DJ kit really is and if it really is different than jetting on my own. Has anyone tried both? Does anyone have actual specs of each?

Sorry, I was on the wrong page so I see some of these things are being addressed. Thank you.

Don't sweat it. The Dyno Jet spring is longer and "springier" than stock and the kit comes with 2 different mains. 160 and 165 I think. The needle has a completely different profile as well. The instructions say that if you are using the stock exhaust then use the 160 and if you're using aftermarket use the 165. Again "I think", it's been awhile.
If what I said is wrong someone will clear it up.
As for question #5, there is no way you can emulate the kit or "Dave's Mods" no matter how you configure the stock carb.:applause: Do one or the other and you will have a much better motorcycle. Like I said the Dyno Jet kit came with the bike when I bought it so installing it was a no brainer but remember it's expensive. "Dave's mods" is basically a "free mod" and it will produce the same general results.





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