Lighting a yz426f?

26 replies to this topic
  • umu24013

Posted September 23, 2009 - 11:26 PM


You'll need a WR CDI as well.

  • grayracer513

Posted September 24, 2009 - 05:57 AM


You'll need a WR CDI as well.

That's true of the 450's but not the 426.

  • dunerat

Posted September 25, 2009 - 10:05 AM


this info came from Mike....the pink wire coming from the WR stator needs to be cut, the end going to the harness grounded and the end at the coil tapped and safely tied away from becoming grounded.i cut mine as directed by the lighting pro at the stator and grounded it with the base plate mounting bolt.started rite up.gonna wire up the lights tomorrow and give an update:thumbsup:

update....stock YZ CDI,wired all electrical grounded to frame connect yellow wire to lights .all good 6 hrs on setup no problems:thumbsup:

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  • gumbellion

Posted October 01, 2009 - 10:57 AM


do you have a quick and dirty wiring diagram of how you did it. This weekend i will be tackling the job and would love to make it as easy as possible. Thanks

  • dunerat

Posted October 02, 2009 - 04:24 PM


do you have a quick and dirty wiring diagram of how you did it. This weekend i will be tackling the job and would love to make it as easy as possible. Thanks

i do not know how to post attachments sorry.i used a Baja designs head light tail light harness with bar switch and regulator in the head light assembly(8inch halogen)that stuff bolted right on plugged in as if it were factory :busted: i just added a brake light circuit thats hot all the time (head light on or off)

  • Anjosam

Posted June 17, 2014 - 10:13 AM


Not nearly that simple, no.

The YZ stator has two coil sets, both for the ignition. The WR400/426 has one set that is split into two electrically, and another dedicated to auxiliary power (lights, etc.). The YZ and WR stators both have the following leads:

  • Red
  • White
  • Pink
  • Green
  • Brown
  • Black
The WR has an additional yellow lead, which is from the lighting coils.

To use the WR stator with a YZ CDI, you have to separate the lighting coil from the shared ground at the black lead. The black lead to the harness must remain grounded somewhere, and if it were me doing this, I would split the black wire between the connector at the CDI and the stator, so that I could ground the piece of black wire connected to the CDI, but keep separate the lead coming up from the stator.

You will now have a black and a yellow wire coming from the stator. These are your power source for the lights, etc. If you do not want or need a battery (you don't care if nothing works with the engine off), you can simply run your wiring in pairs out to the lights and such as if it were house wiring, and leave it at that. No part of your lighting system may be grounded to anything on the chassis, though, and that includes the horn button. You should include a voltage regulator.

If you do want a battery, or you need to run anything that needs DC power, you have to first run you AC power through a Rectifier to convert it to DC, then attach a voltage regulator. But again, the entire secondary wiring system that you add on should never use any ground on the chassis, be cause the YZ ignition system uses that, is is not built to be able to deal with a mix of AC and DC currents, or out of phase polarity changes from the lighting coils.



I understood what you just said, but if I can not mix the two grounds (the AC and the DC) where do if find a place to ground the DC current?

I have intention of using a battery and R/R, can I use the negative of the battery as a ground for DC conversion?

thank you  for the help

  • grayracer513

Posted June 17, 2014 - 02:03 PM


What's done instead is to "float" the ground on the AC side:



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