Lighting a yz426f?

[Auggie427s]

I have wired my 2000 yz426f with a wr stator. Now that it is all wired what else do I need to make the lights work properly. Right now I have everything wired in and ground out. When I use the brake lights, horn or headlight it kills the bike. It's like it's being used as a kill switch. I know it's not drawing to much power. So my question is do I need a battery or restrictor in there some where? Please help before I rip my head off.

[grayracer513]

If you are trying to use the YZ stator, that's where your problem is; you can't. There is no reserve power in that system, and both coil sets, are dedicated to the ignition. You need an after market stator, or one from a WR.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=787361

[Auggie427s]

Thank you for your reply but As stated I changed out the YZ stator with a WR stator. My question is did I hook something wrong or do I need a battery?

[grayracer513]

Obviously, you did. You cannot attach ANY of the electrical components other than the ignition system to the ignition side of the system. It sounds like at least your horn is now attempting to draw from it.

Furthermore, the YZ ignition is a straight AC system that does what conversion to DC is necessary entirely within the CDI unit. If you add a DC lighting system, at least the DC portion must be isolated from the chassis; nothing running DC can ground to the frame, not even a light bulb.

Most people who use a WR stator find it necessary to "float" the ground of the lighting coil set, which is to say that the lighting coils are no longer grounded to the chassis, but to wiring run for that purpose.

It may be helpful to pull down manuals for a 2000 YZ426, and for a 2000 WR400, and compare the circuitry of the two.

http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/?r=0

[Auggie427s]

So can I run the power wire from the stator to a battery then from there power to everything else?

[grayracer513]

Not nearly that simple, no.

The YZ stator has two coil sets, both for the ignition. The WR400/426 has one set that is split into two electrically, and another dedicated to auxiliary power (lights, etc.). The YZ and WR stators both have the following leads:

• Red
  
• White
  
• Pink
  
• Green
  
• Brown
  
• Black
  

The WR has an additional yellow lead, which is from the lighting coils.

To use the WR stator with a YZ CDI, you have to separate the lighting coil from the shared ground at the black lead. The black lead to the harness must remain grounded somewhere, and if it were me doing this, I would split the black wire between the connector at the CDI and the stator, so that I could ground the piece of black wire connected to the CDI, but keep separate the lead coming up from the stator.

You will now have a black and a yellow wire coming from the stator. These are your power source for the lights, etc. If you do not want or need a battery (you don't care if nothing works with the engine off), you can simply run your wiring in pairs out to the lights and such as if it were house wiring, and leave it at that. No part of your lighting system may be grounded to anything on the chassis, though, and that includes the horn button. You should include a voltage regulator.

If you do want a battery, or you need to run anything that needs DC power, you have to first run you AC power through a Rectifier to convert it to DC, then attach a voltage regulator. But again, the entire secondary wiring system that you add on should never use any ground on the chassis, be cause the YZ ignition system uses that, is is not built to be able to deal with a mix of AC and DC currents, or out of phase polarity changes from the lighting coils.

[Auggie427s]

Ok now I'm almost ready to rip my head off. Comeing out of my stator I have a

Red- ? Power maybe

Yellow- Plugs into the voltage regulator- Correct?

Cluster- that plugs into the CDI

Cluster is all plugged into CDI?

From the CDI I have the black wire ground to the frame?

From the voltage regulator I have a yellow (plugs into stators yellow?) and black (ground to frame?)

I am going to put in a battery. So which one am I running to my battery? Is there anyway you can just make me a diagram? Please, please help.

[grayracer513]

If your stator has a harness with 6 wires in it that terminate in a connector, and then still has a free yellow AND a red, then it's been modified, and someone will have to look at it to be able to say for certain. But my guess is going to be that you would simply plug it in at the CDI and it should run with nothing but the ignition connected. If that works, that much is correct.

Then, still just guessing, the yellow and red should be you AC power for lights. Since it's AC, it matters not which one you use, but I can't help you with the regulator, because I don't know anything about the one you are using.

Have you pulled down a manual yet?

[Auggie427s]

If your stator has a harness with 6 wires in it that terminate in a connector, and then still has a free yellow AND a red, then it's been modified, and someone will have to look at it to be able to say for certain. But my guess is going to be that you would simply plug it in at the CDI and it should run with nothing but the ignition connected. If that works, that much is correct.

Then, still just guessing, the yellow and red should be you AC power for lights. Since it's AC, it matters not which one you use, but I can't help you with the regulator, because I don't know anything about the one you are using.

Have you pulled down a manual yet?

Well now that I have ripped all my hair out and no one in this town knows anything about bikes. Today after work I'm going to pull the WR stator out and reinstall the YZ stator. I finally got everything wired up, lights work like a charm but I can't get the bike to rev up. Seeing how I was trying to get it done fast. After I put in the WR stator I never reved the bike. I started it, it idled fine. So I turned it off and started on the lighting. I disconnected the wiring, pulled and cleaned the carb and changed the spark plug and still the bike will not rev up. There for the last thing to do it put the YZ stator back in and see if it willl run correctly again. Unless you have any ideas. Please let me know.

[gumbellion]

Well im bringing this one back from the grave. Jason 427 did you ever figure out your issue with the stator. I have my wr stator and flywheel coming and want to make sure i have all my issues covered. I already have my bike wired as i was using a electrosport stator before so im hoping i can just plug in the new yellow wire into where the old one went. I used to run a battery but it is a waste of weight and a PITA. What was your revving issue? Im guessing the cdi was causing the bike to fire at the wrong time as you increased engine speed=stall. If you have any tips fill me in.

[rufusz]

To use the WR stator with a YZ CDI, you have to separate the lighting coil from the shared ground at the black lead. The black lead to the harness must remain grounded somewhere, and if it were me doing this, I would split the black wire between the connector at the CDI and the stator, so that I could ground the piece of black wire connected to the CDI, but keep separate the lead coming up from the stator.

So you say that the black lead coming from the stator is not grounded already by the stator plator actually being bolted to the frame (of course through the engine) ?

[dunerat]

So you say that the black lead coming from the stator is not grounded already by the stator plator actually being bolted to the frame (of course through the engine) ?

the black wire coming from the stator(lighting coils) needs to be seperated from the harness,the plug end(black) going to the CDI grounded and the lead from stator used with the yellow lead for lights etc. but do not ground the lighting system to the chasis(floating).it becomes its own system:banana:

[rufusz]

the black wire coming from the stator(lighting coils) needs to be seperated from the harness,the plug end(black) going to the CDI grounded and the lead from stator used with the yellow lead for lights etc. but do not ground the lighting system to the chasis(floating).it becomes its own system:banana:

I understood what Gray said about how to make it. I've asked if the black lead coming from the stator is already the same with the frame, since the stator plate is bolted to the frame.

[grayracer513]

I understood what Gray said about how to make it. I've asked if the black lead coming from the stator is already the same with the frame, since the stator plate is bolted to the frame.

None of the coils are grounded at the stator plate except by external leads.

If you float the ground of the lighting coil, and you want to use DC lighting or a battery, remember that the grounds for the lights must also float. Looking at the two wiring diagrams, and speaking only of the 426, I don't see a reason for floating the WR lighting ground if straight AC lighting with no battery is used.

[rufusz]

Will check next time when I get the tank down...

Question : Why do you think that sharing ground for 2 separate circuits (one AC - CDI, other DC - light) could cause any problems? The CDI has it's own voltage regulator / rectifier which takes cares of voltage peaks which could damage the internal ICs/transistors...

[grayracer513]

If the AC and DC circuits share a chassis ground, then the frame becomes, in effect one of the wires in the system, and both sides share it. That exposes DC circuitry and batteries to AC voltages, which cannot be allowed.

In a built from scratch AC/DC system, like the WR450, or any typical car, the AC side has no ground to chassis anywhere in the circuit, isolating it from the DC side.

[Auggie427s]

Will check next time when I get the tank down...

Question : Why do you think that sharing ground for 2 separate circuits (one AC - CDI, other DC - light) could cause any problems? The CDI has it's own voltage regulator / rectifier which takes cares of voltage peaks which could damage the internal ICs/transistors...

When you do do that. It will make the bike as a ground to a KILL SWITCH and everytime you use/turn anything on it will kill the bike.

[grayracer513]

When you do do that. It will make the bike as a ground to a KILL SWITCH and everytime you use/turn anything on it will kill the bike.

Only grounding the ignition kill wire will do that. The YZ electrical circuit already has a ground.

[rufusz]

Can you enlighten us pls on these wrong informations?

[dunerat]

Can you enlighten us pls on these wrong informations?

this info came from Mike....the pink wire coming from the WR stator needs to be cut, the end going to the harness grounded and the end at the coil tapped and safely tied away from becoming grounded.i cut mine as directed by the lighting pro at the stator and grounded it with the base plate mounting bolt.started rite up.gonna wire up the lights tomorrow and give an update:thumbsup: