i dont want to bottom out no more

[buggs bunny]

hey yall.

well i have a stock 08 wr450f and i had my local mec. add 10 cc of oil to my stock frt shocks and know i have a stiff ride and i still bottom out on four ft jumps.i wiegh 180 without gear.

what size springs and oil levels do you recomend. thanks

[oldmanx]

hey yall.

well i have a stock 08 wr450f and i had my local mec. add 10 cc of oil to my stock frt shocks and know i have a stiff ride and i still bottom out on four ft jumps.i wiegh 180 without gear.

what size springs and oil levels do you recomend. thanks

After trying the extra oil trick, here's where I went for fork and shock springs to accomodate my weight.

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchdirt.asp

[tribalbc]

I weigh around 190-195 and I use 0.48 springs and a 100mm oil level.

Stock springs are 0.46 and oil level is 130mm.

Works good for me, I even ride a little moto and no probs with harsh bottoming. I just go a few clicks in on compression when I'm going to ride the track.

[buggs bunny]

After trying the extra oil trick, here's where I went for fork and shock springs to accomodate my weight.

http://old.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchdirt.asp

that's all good to show me that site,i tried it before posting this question.

but the problem is they recomend a smaller spring for my wieght so i'm confused?

do thier kits with recomended springs work? or do i need more options?

thanks oldmanx:ride:

[buggs bunny]

I weigh around 190-195 and I use 0.48 springs and a 100mm oil level.

Stock springs are 0.46 and oil level is 130mm.

Works good for me, I even ride a little moto and no probs with harsh bottoming. I just go a few clicks in on compression when I'm going to ride the track.

cool,glad your still looking out for me!

i want to try your set up.

are your .48 springs yamaha or aftermarket.

[tribalbc]

cool,glad your still looking out for me!?

i want to try your set up.

are your .48 springs yamaha or aftermarket.?

Aftermarket

I have Eibachs, race tech are the same springs as well. They're a little lighter than stock for a little unsprung weight loss

If you get the Eibachs make sure you get the model # from Eibachs website catalog. TR and the rest have the wrong model spring listed for later WR's. They're 20mm to short.

I know, I went through this

[buggs bunny]

Aftermarket

I have Eibachs, race tech are the same springs as well. They're a little lighter than stock for a little unsprung weight loss

If you get the Eibachs make sure you get the model # from Eibachs website catalog. TR and the rest have the wrong model spring listed for later WR's. They're 20mm to short.

I know, I went through this

thanks i'll check them out,sorry about your pit fall with the wrong ones:bonk:

[HTElectrical]

Changing the springs won't stop you from bottoming out. You need to do that with valving. The springs just insure that you have the correct sag. You should post this in the suspension forum.

[SJMC_DON]

Changing the springs won't stop you from bottoming out. You need to do that with valving. The springs just insure that you have the correct sag. You should post this in the suspension forum.

True on the rear.... in that you cannot properly set sag with out enough spring rate but when is the last time you set the sag on a fork?

Of course springs will aid in bottoming:bonk: Is it the best way to go? NO, but it's cheaper and something most of us can do our selves.

I am 200 - 220 lb. "A" rider/racer and I can testify that changing to a heavier spring rate will help especially if you don't want to fork over the dough for re-valving...

The best suggestion anyone can make here is that if you have enough money for a re-valve spend it rather on a set of YZ forks (if you can find them)

[tribalbc]

True on the rear.... in that you cannot properly set sag with out enough spring rate but when is the last time you set the sag on a fork?

Of course springs will aid in bottoming:bonk: Is it the best way to go? NO, but it's cheaper and something most of us can do our selves.

I am 200 - 220 lb. "A" rider/racer and I can testify that changing to a heavier spring rate will help especially if you don't want to fork over the dough for re-valving...

The best suggestion anyone can make here is that if you have enough money for a re-valve spend it rather on a set of YZ forks (if you can find them)

Exactly

Of course you could make it better but this is the cheapest fix.

[Brian2071]

The best suggestion anyone can make here is that if you have enough money for a re-valve spend it rather on a set of YZ forks (if you can find them)

I have heard a lot of people say go with a set of YZ forks. My question is if you have the stock WR forks re-sprung and re-valved for your weight and riding style are the stock YZ forks still that much better than the "worked" WR forks?

[SJMC_DON]

My question is if you have the stock WR forks re-sprung and re-valved for your weight and riding style are the stock YZ forks still that much better than the "worked" WR forks?

YEP.... They are a completely different design and make.

[jams229]

Then... WHY would Yamaha not use them on the WR?

I know they are for two different applications, but if the YZ forks are that much better all around, why would they not use them?

[matthew trachsler]

I recomend an mx bike. No just jokin buddy u can add more oil and turn the clickers down a bit that might help set ur sag personally ive never had my sag set properly i have my suspension set up for my riding style not my weight and all i do is jump it makes it harder on the track but i just deal with it and no im not on a wr450f shes a yz125

[srfdwg2]

I have your answer:ride: I have a set of yz450f forks and shocks in mint condition,if interrested send me an im.

[srfdwg2]

Typo forks and shock from a 2007 yz450f.

[SJMC_DON]

Then... WHY would Yamaha not use them on the WR?

I know they are for two different applications, but if the YZ forks are that much better all around, why would they not use them?

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I can only assume the following.

Yamaha's true opinion, (real opinion here, not what they say in their ads), is that the typical WR buyer is a weekend warrior at best and perhaps they are right?

So why put a set of SSS forks on a bike that in their opinion will never be ridden by someone that can tell the difference or care?

Hey, I love the WR's... I just bought my 5th WR:busted: but I can say without a doubt that Yamaha misses the mark on many features with the bike.

[tribalbc]

Anyone know if this bike started with YZ or WR suspension ?

http://www.dirtrider.com/reviews/dirt_bike/141_0905_torture_test_am_pro_fmf_yamaha_tucker_rocky_wr450f/index.html

I've never tried modern YZ forks to compare to but I've always thought the open bath makes a better woods fork.

With different valving and the check spring removed maybe the WR fork could really rock

[ep87]

True on the rear.... in that you cannot properly set sag with out enough spring rate but when is the last time you set the sag on a fork?

Of course springs will aid in bottoming:bonk: Is it the best way to go? NO, but it's cheaper and something most of us can do our selves.

I am 200 - 220 lb. "A" rider/racer and I can testify that changing to a heavier spring rate will help especially if you don't want to fork over the dough for re-valving...

The best suggestion anyone can make here is that if you have enough money for a re-valve spend it rather on a set of YZ forks (if you can find them)

I agree changed out my stock springs with the race tech recomended weights

this weekend what a difference. like a new bike.

From now on I'll change the springs out first thing when I get a new bike.

[davidl9999]

Fwiw, after talking to both RaceTech and Factory Connection folks, and posting a similar question about YZ vs. WR forks, it seems that the concensus is that modifying the valving of the open-chamber WR fork will get you better performance than a stock YZ fork, and near the performance of a modified YZ fork. Plus, the open chamber design is better for trails, wood, and desert stuff, whereas the split-chamber design of the YZ fork is better for MX and jumping.

So, if you're mostly doing "WR" riding, then it seems to me that it would be cheaper to modify one's existing fork instead of buying someone's (potentially problematic) YZ fork and then modifying it, as well as giving better performance for what the bike is being used for.

Makes sense to me at least.