Anyone tried after market camshafts?
Posted September 03, 2002 - 06:17 PM
Has anyone tried them yet?
[ September 03, 2002, 09:19 PM: Message edited by: tk421 ]
Posted September 04, 2002 - 03:44 AM
they couldn't give any info either. if you're at all interested get yourself a spare set of cams and go get a base grind. anyone who tunes production racers will know what this is.
can't go wrong and worth 1-2 horsepower.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 04:15 AM
Tell me more about your Adjustable Cams (sprockets).
Theoretically, what would be the benefit?
You purchased them from Florida?
How difficult to set them up properly?
Posted September 04, 2002 - 05:09 AM
Hot Cams... http://www.mxsouth.c...cams/hottoc.htm
Stroker or white bros repackage web cams.
Web can sell you adj. sprockets as Taffy uses or just go to Falicon.
I have yet to try any of these, I also just adjusted my cam timing via adj sprockets.
Will report back with any news of my tests.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 06:32 AM
Any hints on where to mount my dial indicator base?
Posted September 04, 2002 - 07:44 AM
I used a stud mounted to the head stay engine mount. I also made a curved indicator extension to hook around the cam to reach the bucket.
I used .040 as my base lift or zero for open and closed and I didn't shim the clearance to zero, I was in the middle of the clearance range.
Here is a good cam degreeing link, BTW.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 09:05 PM
i really can't remember now. i think i meant to go for 109d on both cams but by the time i tightened the head down it had changed to 107d -i think. if you find it could you provide a link?
yes it was definately worth it! i could feel the difference so to feel it you must gain at least 1 BHP i would have thought. it produces more grunt. you can rollit on in third and just wrench your arms off.
i can't see the point in timing them at 106d BTW but there you go. i always said that RR was a winker. i know more than him any time and i haven't had 6 zillion on a rolling road just to get it half cocked either.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 11:58 AM
SFO: Thanks for the links and good luck to you on your cam setup. Let us know how it turns out.
Back in the eighties NASCAR racers were playing around with titanium valve spring retainers, it helped on acceleration and valves from floating.
It would make a nice addition to the YAMAHA.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 01:07 PM
Every one in the industry that I have talked to loves Ty Davis.
I believe the weight difference of ti retainers vs steel retainers is minimal.That difference creating more hp or throttle reponse is somewhat suspect.
The oem stuff has decent seat pressure and free travel for any cams that are being made today for consumer use.
If I wanted more seat pressure I would run a pre-ti valve spring for another 5lbs on the seat.
The track record of R&D springs is kinda shaky in my experience.
I have seen their springs break on my rfvc motors, f-2 motors, and ex500, not to mention retainer pull through on rotaxes.
I would stick with stock springs and retainers and I believe the hotcam to be the set-up.
They don't require your core, they come with degreeable spockets, and you can buy just an intake or just an exhaust.
Just my 2cents, sorry for running on.
Posted September 04, 2002 - 02:23 PM
Thanks for the heads up on the R & D springs. It surprises me that the titanium retainers would pull through.
Maybe stock springs with the titanium retainers and skip the heavier R & D’s? Just thinking out loud.
Have you tried the Falicon Wheels, or do you use something else?
Posted September 04, 2002 - 04:26 PM
This leads to retainer failure.
This was a few years ago I noticed this on a rotax I was working on then I checked my rfvc and it had 2 broken springs and the 3retainers were pulling through.
These are just my experiences and I am just sceptical about their hard parts now.
Not my intention to flame.
Falicon sprockets are pretty much it, don't think you can buy the hotcams sprockets solo.
I think they are 175$ installed.
[ September 04, 2002, 07:29 PM: Message edited by: SFO ]