I told this in a neighbor who has bought his bike couple days , he's waiting to finish the brake in period and he'll do this mod !
Derestrict klx250 2009 EFI for FREE
Started by stratosa, May 21 2009 07:44 AM
124 replies to this topic
Posted 14 July 2009 - 04:04 AM
Hey Stratosa, wasn’t derestricting enough for you What is the purpose to increase to 300cc?
Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:00 AM
I got mine KLX250 EFI derestriced yesterday and had a test ride today. I did derestriction Stratosa’s way. I travelled 160km, max speed around 140km/h and more - too fast for original tires as front end was getting wobbly. I must admit this way of derestriction works, ECU is not getting any hotter than before. My personal opinion is that the engine power was not as great as it was on a test ride I did earlier with disconnected speedo (it also derestrics bike by not sending speed sensor information to ECU, but makes FI light to come up).
In order to avoid possible problems I installed after market switch to give me a freedom to ride standard way or derestricted. If anyone interested in how I installed the switch just post in forum.
Now the next thing I am going to do is replace original D605 tires to more road orientated. D605 are 50/50 (in some pages I found 40/60), I think getting 90/10.
Efharisto Stratosa!
In order to avoid possible problems I installed after market switch to give me a freedom to ride standard way or derestricted. If anyone interested in how I installed the switch just post in forum.
Now the next thing I am going to do is replace original D605 tires to more road orientated. D605 are 50/50 (in some pages I found 40/60), I think getting 90/10.
Efharisto Stratosa!
Posted 17 July 2009 - 12:43 AM
I took the speedo cable plug off today.
Using my gps, I got 115km/hr best speed,with it unplugged.
I could only get 104 max with it connected(before and after)
I don't know how accurate the gps or speedo is.
It went up to 10000 in 4th, maybe 9000 in 5th
I'm not sure what size the sprockets are, it's a rental
Using my gps, I got 115km/hr best speed,with it unplugged.
I could only get 104 max with it connected(before and after)
I don't know how accurate the gps or speedo is.
It went up to 10000 in 4th, maybe 9000 in 5th
I'm not sure what size the sprockets are, it's a rental
Posted 14 August 2009 - 06:35 AM
Hey Stratosa
I just signed up for thumpertalk forum to say thanks for your mod. Immediately clocked 120 on the speedo on a short run out. Never seen more than 110 before. There is a replacement ECU / regulator upgrade available in Thailand. Not sure how 'clever' it but it costs over 200 USD. I just spent a couple of dollars on a switch (not actually necessary) and see an immediate performance improvement.
Good stuff!
Cheers
T
I just signed up for thumpertalk forum to say thanks for your mod. Immediately clocked 120 on the speedo on a short run out. Never seen more than 110 before. There is a replacement ECU / regulator upgrade available in Thailand. Not sure how 'clever' it but it costs over 200 USD. I just spent a couple of dollars on a switch (not actually necessary) and see an immediate performance improvement.
Good stuff!
Cheers
T
Posted 15 August 2009 - 04:45 AM
Coming up on 2500 plus km’s with the mod; just had it’s second oil change since doing it - forgot to switch off the wiring last week when in the shop. Mechanic told me that it runs so much faster than other D-Trackers, and asked what someone did to it. He laughed when I told him that only he and I have ever worked on the bike.
Trying it both ways, meaning pulling the snorkel off and putting it back on, find that without the snorkel the bike certainly pulls better above 8000 rpm. But feel certain that gas octane numbers don’t make any difference in this small engine. Even pulling the snorkel on a rented KLX resulted in slightly more pull over 7000 rpm.
Trying it both ways, meaning pulling the snorkel off and putting it back on, find that without the snorkel the bike certainly pulls better above 8000 rpm. But feel certain that gas octane numbers don’t make any difference in this small engine. Even pulling the snorkel on a rented KLX resulted in slightly more pull over 7000 rpm.
Posted 10 September 2009 - 10:15 AM
Stratosa it seems your method is becoming quite popular!
Link to a Greek forum (sorry guys) http://kawasaki-bike...&p=41819#p41782
Hope you don't have a problem I post it there.
Cheers, Lampros.
Link to a Greek forum (sorry guys) http://kawasaki-bike...&p=41819#p41782
Hope you don't have a problem I post it there.
Cheers, Lampros.
Posted 05 February 2010 - 02:41 PM
klx250s 2009 said:
I got mine KLX250 EFI derestriced yesterday and had a test ride today. I did derestriction Stratosa’s way. I travelled 160km, max speed around 140km/h and more - too fast for original tires as front end was getting wobbly. I must admit this way of derestriction works, ECU is not getting any hotter than before. My personal opinion is that the engine power was not as great as it was on a test ride I did earlier with disconnected speedo (it also derestrics bike by not sending speed sensor information to ECU, but makes FI light to come up).
In order to avoid possible problems I installed after market switch to give me a freedom to ride standard way or derestricted. If anyone interested in how I installed the switch just post in forum.
Now the next thing I am going to do is replace original D605 tires to more road orientated. D605 are 50/50 (in some pages I found 40/60), I think getting 90/10.
Efharisto Stratosa!
In order to avoid possible problems I installed after market switch to give me a freedom to ride standard way or derestricted. If anyone interested in how I installed the switch just post in forum.
Now the next thing I am going to do is replace original D605 tires to more road orientated. D605 are 50/50 (in some pages I found 40/60), I think getting 90/10.
Efharisto Stratosa!
Hi,
I'm interested to see how you installed the switch on the derestiction modification.
Cheers,
Dave
Posted 07 February 2010 - 04:19 AM
stubzi said:
Hi,
I'm interested to see how you installed the switch on the derestiction modification.
Cheers,
Dave
I'm interested to see how you installed the switch on the derestiction modification.
Cheers,
Dave
I took the cut wire leading to the ECU, put a switch inline to the new line, plus added a second switch inline with the new wire lead. Had the same two switches on hand, and just strapped them together down low behind the ECU. If I bought a switch I would have bought a multi switch, not sure if that’s the correct term for a switch which changes one path for another (three way?).
Planned to take pictures after the soldering was done, but the angles wouldn't show in pictures.
Only time I have used the switches in the last months is when experimenting for mileage; recently getting 210 km's out of 5 1/2 litres – BORING!
Posted 26 September 2010 - 05:22 AM
Hi there
As my KLX250S has just passed its 1.st inspection I have not yet tampered with any wires ;o)
But I can see that it's restricted; i 5.th it wil go to 100 km/h reasonably fast and then clim slowly to a 105 / ~8.200 revs.
In 6.th it has been over 120 in strong wind - GPS reading 118 !
But that was helped by a force 6-7 in my back ;o)
On flat hwy it'll doo around 110 on the GPS - generally the speedo shows 10% more than the GPS at all speeds - at least the error is consistnént ;o)
But what bothers me about this way of beating the rev limiter is that you'll trick the ECU into thinking that the bike is running in either neutral or 1.st gear - which mapping will the ECU the be using ?
The fact that many states that the bike seems to accelerate faster indicates to me that a richer mapping is used throughtout - which may be OK - if it ain't too rich !
It would seem more appropriate to cut the wire ad solder in a resistor to trick the limiter into delaying it's action - but what size resistor should you start with ?
Maybee I'm just overrating the ECU's abilities - if it is so simple that it only utilises i.e. info from the Lambda, revs and intake pressure ? Thus not having any preset maps.
Then I would have no fears using this method ;o)
As to the 2BR Juice Box: does it connect to the ECU og to the Lambda ?
One strange solution to doo without the Lambda sond is to unpluf it and replace it with a plug with a resistor in.....I would really hate to resort to such a simple and unsafe solution.
As my KLX250S has just passed its 1.st inspection I have not yet tampered with any wires ;o)
But I can see that it's restricted; i 5.th it wil go to 100 km/h reasonably fast and then clim slowly to a 105 / ~8.200 revs.
In 6.th it has been over 120 in strong wind - GPS reading 118 !
But that was helped by a force 6-7 in my back ;o)
On flat hwy it'll doo around 110 on the GPS - generally the speedo shows 10% more than the GPS at all speeds - at least the error is consistnént ;o)
But what bothers me about this way of beating the rev limiter is that you'll trick the ECU into thinking that the bike is running in either neutral or 1.st gear - which mapping will the ECU the be using ?
The fact that many states that the bike seems to accelerate faster indicates to me that a richer mapping is used throughtout - which may be OK - if it ain't too rich !
It would seem more appropriate to cut the wire ad solder in a resistor to trick the limiter into delaying it's action - but what size resistor should you start with ?
Maybee I'm just overrating the ECU's abilities - if it is so simple that it only utilises i.e. info from the Lambda, revs and intake pressure ? Thus not having any preset maps.
Then I would have no fears using this method ;o)
As to the 2BR Juice Box: does it connect to the ECU og to the Lambda ?
One strange solution to doo without the Lambda sond is to unpluf it and replace it with a plug with a resistor in.....I would really hate to resort to such a simple and unsafe solution.
Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:19 AM
Well - as I got no answer here I decided to mess a little with some wire and a soldering iron yesterday.
Did the deed at my brothers house some 30 km from my home - he has a garage with ligt (here in DK in gets dark around 4.30 PM this time of the year).
Oh - and I had a little side projekt with making a high-mount bracket for my GPS. Now its sitting high above the speedo - behind my hone-made windscreen ;o)
Going tp my brother on the hwy ind almost no wind (hardly 1 knot) it would pull just around 115 on the GPS - for a very short while. You couldn't count on much more than the official 105 km/h.
And I have been annoyed by the foolish throttle handle - accelerating at lower speeds you can turn it all the way - and the engine reacts fine. But on the hwy you cannot utilize the last 3/4 - 1 inch of the handle's travel - the engine would hold back and actually slow you down !
But after doing the wire-trick to derestrict the bike I was able to hit 125 km/h on a flat stretch (~9.500 rpm) for a short while - 120 (~9.000 rpm) was pretty esay to hit - again and again ;o)
Now the bike wil accelerate from e.g. 100 km/h to 120 in a manner that makes you aware that you ARE accelerate !
Even in town it feels like it accelerates faster than before. Not noticeable below around 5.000 revs - but hit the gas and it seems to be faster from ~5.000 and up than before.
The bike is as stable at 120 as You can expect from a tall, light bike. It wil start swaying a little from side to side when you are in the (wind)wash from cars in front of you. Depending on the car's aerodynamics you can feel it up to a coupple of 100 meters behind. Before it was a nuisance - now I just overtake ;o)
BTW - my old BMW F650 did the same swaying - though it has more than 50 extra kg's dryweight.
Now i'm a little curious as to what it does with my gas-milage - last tankfull gave me 27,5 km/l. 157 km with just about 50% hwy and 50% town. This tankfull wil be about the same spread over hwy and town.
Did the deed at my brothers house some 30 km from my home - he has a garage with ligt (here in DK in gets dark around 4.30 PM this time of the year).
Oh - and I had a little side projekt with making a high-mount bracket for my GPS. Now its sitting high above the speedo - behind my hone-made windscreen ;o)
Going tp my brother on the hwy ind almost no wind (hardly 1 knot) it would pull just around 115 on the GPS - for a very short while. You couldn't count on much more than the official 105 km/h.
And I have been annoyed by the foolish throttle handle - accelerating at lower speeds you can turn it all the way - and the engine reacts fine. But on the hwy you cannot utilize the last 3/4 - 1 inch of the handle's travel - the engine would hold back and actually slow you down !
But after doing the wire-trick to derestrict the bike I was able to hit 125 km/h on a flat stretch (~9.500 rpm) for a short while - 120 (~9.000 rpm) was pretty esay to hit - again and again ;o)
Now the bike wil accelerate from e.g. 100 km/h to 120 in a manner that makes you aware that you ARE accelerate !
Even in town it feels like it accelerates faster than before. Not noticeable below around 5.000 revs - but hit the gas and it seems to be faster from ~5.000 and up than before.
The bike is as stable at 120 as You can expect from a tall, light bike. It wil start swaying a little from side to side when you are in the (wind)wash from cars in front of you. Depending on the car's aerodynamics you can feel it up to a coupple of 100 meters behind. Before it was a nuisance - now I just overtake ;o)
BTW - my old BMW F650 did the same swaying - though it has more than 50 extra kg's dryweight.
Now i'm a little curious as to what it does with my gas-milage - last tankfull gave me 27,5 km/l. 157 km with just about 50% hwy and 50% town. This tankfull wil be about the same spread over hwy and town.
Posted 25 December 2010 - 09:35 AM
Jesper Hedegaard said:
Hi there
As my KLX250S has just passed its 1.st inspection I have not yet tampered with any wires ;o)
But I can see that it's restricted; i 5.th it wil go to 100 km/h reasonably fast and then clim slowly to a 105 / ~8.200 revs.
In 6.th it has been over 120 in strong wind - GPS reading 118 !
But that was helped by a force 6-7 in my back ;o)
On flat hwy it'll doo around 110 on the GPS - generally the speedo shows 10% more than the GPS at all speeds - at least the error is consistnént ;o)
But what bothers me about this way of beating the rev limiter is that you'll trick the ECU into thinking that the bike is running in either neutral or 1.st gear - which mapping will the ECU the be using ?
The fact that many states that the bike seems to accelerate faster indicates to me that a richer mapping is used throughtout - which may be OK - if it ain't too rich !
It would seem more appropriate to cut the wire ad solder in a resistor to trick the limiter into delaying it's action - but what size resistor should you start with ?
Maybee I'm just overrating the ECU's abilities - if it is so simple that it only utilises i.e. info from the Lambda, revs and intake pressure ? Thus not having any preset maps.
Then I would have no fears using this method ;o)
As to the 2BR Juice Box: does it connect to the ECU og to the Lambda ?
One strange solution to doo without the Lambda sond is to unpluf it and replace it with a plug with a resistor in.....I would really hate to resort to such a simple and unsafe solution.
As my KLX250S has just passed its 1.st inspection I have not yet tampered with any wires ;o)
But I can see that it's restricted; i 5.th it wil go to 100 km/h reasonably fast and then clim slowly to a 105 / ~8.200 revs.
In 6.th it has been over 120 in strong wind - GPS reading 118 !
But that was helped by a force 6-7 in my back ;o)
On flat hwy it'll doo around 110 on the GPS - generally the speedo shows 10% more than the GPS at all speeds - at least the error is consistnént ;o)
But what bothers me about this way of beating the rev limiter is that you'll trick the ECU into thinking that the bike is running in either neutral or 1.st gear - which mapping will the ECU the be using ?
The fact that many states that the bike seems to accelerate faster indicates to me that a richer mapping is used throughtout - which may be OK - if it ain't too rich !
It would seem more appropriate to cut the wire ad solder in a resistor to trick the limiter into delaying it's action - but what size resistor should you start with ?
Maybee I'm just overrating the ECU's abilities - if it is so simple that it only utilises i.e. info from the Lambda, revs and intake pressure ? Thus not having any preset maps.
Then I would have no fears using this method ;o)
As to the 2BR Juice Box: does it connect to the ECU og to the Lambda ?
One strange solution to doo without the Lambda sond is to unpluf it and replace it with a plug with a resistor in.....I would really hate to resort to such a simple and unsafe solution.
Jesper Hedegaard said:
Well - as I got no answer here I decided to mess a little with some wire and a soldering iron yesterday.
Did the deed at my brothers house some 30 km from my home - he has a garage with ligt (here in DK in gets dark around 4.30 PM this time of the year).
Oh - and I had a little side projekt with making a high-mount bracket for my GPS. Now its sitting high above the speedo - behind my hone-made windscreen ;o)
Going tp my brother on the hwy ind almost no wind (hardly 1 knot) it would pull just around 115 on the GPS - for a very short while. You couldn't count on much more than the official 105 km/h.
And I have been annoyed by the foolish throttle handle - accelerating at lower speeds you can turn it all the way - and the engine reacts fine. But on the hwy you cannot utilize the last 3/4 - 1 inch of the handle's travel - the engine would hold back and actually slow you down !
But after doing the wire-trick to derestrict the bike I was able to hit 125 km/h on a flat stretch (~9.500 rpm) for a short while - 120 (~9.000 rpm) was pretty esay to hit - again and again ;o)
Now the bike wil accelerate from e.g. 100 km/h to 120 in a manner that makes you aware that you ARE accelerate !
Even in town it feels like it accelerates faster than before. Not noticeable below around 5.000 revs - but hit the gas and it seems to be faster from ~5.000 and up than before.
The bike is as stable at 120 as You can expect from a tall, light bike. It wil start swaying a little from side to side when you are in the (wind)wash from cars in front of you. Depending on the car's aerodynamics you can feel it up to a coupple of 100 meters behind. Before it was a nuisance - now I just overtake ;o)
BTW - my old BMW F650 did the same swaying - though it has more than 50 extra kg's dryweight.
Now i'm a little curious as to what it does with my gas-milage - last tankfull gave me 27,5 km/l. 157 km with just about 50% hwy and 50% town. This tankfull wil be about the same spread over hwy and town.
Did the deed at my brothers house some 30 km from my home - he has a garage with ligt (here in DK in gets dark around 4.30 PM this time of the year).
Oh - and I had a little side projekt with making a high-mount bracket for my GPS. Now its sitting high above the speedo - behind my hone-made windscreen ;o)
Going tp my brother on the hwy ind almost no wind (hardly 1 knot) it would pull just around 115 on the GPS - for a very short while. You couldn't count on much more than the official 105 km/h.
And I have been annoyed by the foolish throttle handle - accelerating at lower speeds you can turn it all the way - and the engine reacts fine. But on the hwy you cannot utilize the last 3/4 - 1 inch of the handle's travel - the engine would hold back and actually slow you down !
But after doing the wire-trick to derestrict the bike I was able to hit 125 km/h on a flat stretch (~9.500 rpm) for a short while - 120 (~9.000 rpm) was pretty esay to hit - again and again ;o)
Now the bike wil accelerate from e.g. 100 km/h to 120 in a manner that makes you aware that you ARE accelerate !
Even in town it feels like it accelerates faster than before. Not noticeable below around 5.000 revs - but hit the gas and it seems to be faster from ~5.000 and up than before.
The bike is as stable at 120 as You can expect from a tall, light bike. It wil start swaying a little from side to side when you are in the (wind)wash from cars in front of you. Depending on the car's aerodynamics you can feel it up to a coupple of 100 meters behind. Before it was a nuisance - now I just overtake ;o)
BTW - my old BMW F650 did the same swaying - though it has more than 50 extra kg's dryweight.
Now i'm a little curious as to what it does with my gas-milage - last tankfull gave me 27,5 km/l. 157 km with just about 50% hwy and 50% town. This tankfull wil be about the same spread over hwy and town.
Hi Jesper,
I have been meaning to repy to your post for some time so sorry for the delay. Now I have a chance after Christmas dinner :thumbsup:
You make some very valid points about the de-restriction method that were all questions I was asking myself at the time I de-restricted my KLX.
- which mapping will the ECU the be using- well I'm not sure is the honest answer though I really need to check the condition of the spark plug to ensure it isn't running too lean. Like you say the increased accelleration would indicate to me that it is a richer mapping that would be ok as long as it's not too rich.
I agree that a better way would be to offset the mapping, I don't think a resistor would work however with some simple (ish) electronics you could trick the speedo feed pulses to the ECU. That is to make the ECU think that the bike is traveling slower than it actually is and therefore in a lower gear than it actually is. Something that halfs the number of pulses should do the trick. nnnnnnn - n n n n Thinking out loud a pulse width modulation circuit would be on the right lines. I had a pulse width generator at one point, I would have loved to hook this up to the feed to the ECU and turn the knob and asses the preformance differences!
I have the wiring Diagram if you would like a copy?
Regarding all your other points, measurements and observations, my experince and results are exactly the same which I hope gives you confidence.
Oh, I also caught a post about engine stalling, this also seemed to cure itself on my bike too.
Overall, I have fallen in love with my KLX since making the modification and have covered many happy miles on her.
Cheers,
Nick.
PS one other tip is to adjust the suspension - wind the pre-load to max with a screw driver and hammer. Also adjust the rebound and damping and it will really feel like a nice bike to ride :thumbsup:
Posted 15 January 2011 - 02:49 PM
is the light green wire (B) the same light green wire that goes into (F)diagonal to the black/red wire?could i just cut the light green wire here and solder to the black/red wire without the need to run a wire from near the ECU?
Posted 19 January 2011 - 11:13 AM
Hello.
I have a problem with my klx. i have 2 black/red wire. One in the corner and the other in the midle. which one i cut?
My bike is from Portugal.
Thanks
I have a problem with my klx. i have 2 black/red wire. One in the corner and the other in the midle. which one i cut?
My bike is from Portugal.
Thanks
Posted 27 February 2011 - 06:55 AM
just unplugging the speedo feed wire should have the same result,
just to check if your bike is indeed "restricted" before you hack into the wiring loom.
just to check if your bike is indeed "restricted" before you hack into the wiring loom.
Posted 31 March 2011 - 08:23 AM
paulocabanas said:
Hello.
I have a problem with my klx. i have 2 black/red wire. One in the corner and the other in the midle. which one i cut?
My bike is from Portugal.
Thanks
I have a problem with my klx. i have 2 black/red wire. One in the corner and the other in the midle. which one i cut?
My bike is from Portugal.
Thanks
see this
http://www.thumperta...18&postcount=34
i think it should be the one at the side.
Posted 30 June 2011 - 10:06 PM
Hi all
Finally a few minutes off before going to work - been spending far too much time there the lates 6 months !
I have had a series of unexpected stops in early spring - did the wire-trick to circumvent the rev limiter last fall and all seemed great.
But then this spring I experienced 5 occasions of engine pretty much dying - completely !
Allways happened on a cold morning when stopping at a red light - the engine would kind of just stop firing - no coffing' og studdering - just as if the ignition was cut off.
As it would'nt restart I had to push it home....Grrr !
After 4th time it went to the shop (did get it started before it went there) - they changed the rectifier with no result - engine died twice going home from the shop - but could re-start.
Before sending it to the shop I restored wires to original - and it still is, but I then read about the trick with shortening out the wires for the clutch-grip and tried that.
Works just as well - tops out at just over 120 km/h again (as per GPS-reading).
But a few days later it died again......finally got it restarted after removing the shortening of the wire.
As the haults seems to happen at about same distance from home I have a suspicion that circumventing the rev-limiter, cold to cool weather and some kind of sensor relating to a choke function (well - it's FI so its more like a regulation ;o) doesn't really communicate and ends up overrichening the mixture to a point where the spark plug is fouled up.
Last time it happened I discovered that the original tools does include a "thin" that should enable You to remove the spark plug - it might fit the plug but it is too fat to go down in the hole where the spark sits......therefore I didn't see how the plug looked when the engine died.
If I can't find a work-around for that (could be as simple as adding a switch to the wire for the clutch handle so I can easily remove the shorting) I'll start looking at other solutions like PowerCommander etc - any news on what's available now ?
Finally a few minutes off before going to work - been spending far too much time there the lates 6 months !
I have had a series of unexpected stops in early spring - did the wire-trick to circumvent the rev limiter last fall and all seemed great.
But then this spring I experienced 5 occasions of engine pretty much dying - completely !
Allways happened on a cold morning when stopping at a red light - the engine would kind of just stop firing - no coffing' og studdering - just as if the ignition was cut off.
As it would'nt restart I had to push it home....Grrr !
After 4th time it went to the shop (did get it started before it went there) - they changed the rectifier with no result - engine died twice going home from the shop - but could re-start.
Before sending it to the shop I restored wires to original - and it still is, but I then read about the trick with shortening out the wires for the clutch-grip and tried that.
Works just as well - tops out at just over 120 km/h again (as per GPS-reading).
But a few days later it died again......finally got it restarted after removing the shortening of the wire.
As the haults seems to happen at about same distance from home I have a suspicion that circumventing the rev-limiter, cold to cool weather and some kind of sensor relating to a choke function (well - it's FI so its more like a regulation ;o) doesn't really communicate and ends up overrichening the mixture to a point where the spark plug is fouled up.
Last time it happened I discovered that the original tools does include a "thin" that should enable You to remove the spark plug - it might fit the plug but it is too fat to go down in the hole where the spark sits......therefore I didn't see how the plug looked when the engine died.
If I can't find a work-around for that (could be as simple as adding a switch to the wire for the clutch handle so I can easily remove the shorting) I'll start looking at other solutions like PowerCommander etc - any news on what's available now ?
Posted 01 July 2011 - 05:38 AM
Jesper Hedegaard said:
Hi all
Finally a few minutes off before going to work - been spending far too much time there the lates 6 months !
I have had a series of unexpected stops in early spring - did the wire-trick to circumvent the rev limiter last fall and all seemed great.
But then this spring I experienced 5 occasions of engine pretty much dying - completely !
Allways happened on a cold morning when stopping at a red light - the engine would kind of just stop firing - no coffing' og studdering - just as if the ignition was cut off.
As it would'nt restart I had to push it home....Grrr !
After 4th time it went to the shop (did get it started before it went there) - they changed the rectifier with no result - engine died twice going home from the shop - but could re-start.
Before sending it to the shop I restored wires to original - and it still is, but I then read about the trick with shortening out the wires for the clutch-grip and tried that.
Works just as well - tops out at just over 120 km/h again (as per GPS-reading).
But a few days later it died again......finally got it restarted after removing the shortening of the wire.
As the haults seems to happen at about same distance from home I have a suspicion that circumventing the rev-limiter, cold to cool weather and some kind of sensor relating to a choke function (well - it's FI so its more like a regulation ;o) doesn't really communicate and ends up overrichening the mixture to a point where the spark plug is fouled up.
Last time it happened I discovered that the original tools does include a "thin" that should enable You to remove the spark plug - it might fit the plug but it is too fat to go down in the hole where the spark sits......therefore I didn't see how the plug looked when the engine died.
If I can't find a work-around for that (could be as simple as adding a switch to the wire for the clutch handle so I can easily remove the shorting) I'll start looking at other solutions like PowerCommander etc - any news on what's available now ?
Finally a few minutes off before going to work - been spending far too much time there the lates 6 months !
I have had a series of unexpected stops in early spring - did the wire-trick to circumvent the rev limiter last fall and all seemed great.
But then this spring I experienced 5 occasions of engine pretty much dying - completely !
Allways happened on a cold morning when stopping at a red light - the engine would kind of just stop firing - no coffing' og studdering - just as if the ignition was cut off.
As it would'nt restart I had to push it home....Grrr !
After 4th time it went to the shop (did get it started before it went there) - they changed the rectifier with no result - engine died twice going home from the shop - but could re-start.
Before sending it to the shop I restored wires to original - and it still is, but I then read about the trick with shortening out the wires for the clutch-grip and tried that.
Works just as well - tops out at just over 120 km/h again (as per GPS-reading).
But a few days later it died again......finally got it restarted after removing the shortening of the wire.
As the haults seems to happen at about same distance from home I have a suspicion that circumventing the rev-limiter, cold to cool weather and some kind of sensor relating to a choke function (well - it's FI so its more like a regulation ;o) doesn't really communicate and ends up overrichening the mixture to a point where the spark plug is fouled up.
Last time it happened I discovered that the original tools does include a "thin" that should enable You to remove the spark plug - it might fit the plug but it is too fat to go down in the hole where the spark sits......therefore I didn't see how the plug looked when the engine died.
If I can't find a work-around for that (could be as simple as adding a switch to the wire for the clutch handle so I can easily remove the shorting) I'll start looking at other solutions like PowerCommander etc - any news on what's available now ?
Hi Jesper,
Had a similar problem myself after winter - I filled up at a different gas station (Petrol Station) and wound up the tick over screw fraction and it's been fine so far fingers crossed.
Another couple of tips while I type - to start the bike after cut out - turn off the keys, wait for a second, turn back on again then immediately press the start button with no throttle. I think the FI pumps needs to be re-primed first in order to start without trouble. I've sat there cranking the bike over for 15 mins or so after cut-out before I realised this.
Secondly, remember the bike will rev to 10,500 rpm. Don't be afraid on taking it there in all the gears - each time i do this the bike just seems to ride better and better and boy what fun it is :banana:
Circuitsight.
PS. my bike has been unrestricted since almost new and I checked the plug recently after 2500 miles - still looked like new!!
