running both hi&low filaments


15 replies to this topic
  • atitagain

Posted May 15, 2009 - 12:45 PM

#1

Has anyone wired their headlight to run both filaments at the same time? Will the stator handle it? Was the light output any better? I was thinking about doing this since it is getting hot here in AZ and now is the time for night rides!
Thanks for any input. :doh:

  • William1

Posted May 15, 2009 - 02:24 PM

#2

Stock stator, no, it will not. Additionally, the wires will be a bit over taxed too, they are not thick enough for the current draw.

  • SJMC_DON

Posted May 15, 2009 - 03:54 PM

#3

since it is getting hot here in AZ and now is the time for night rides!
Thanks for any input. :doh:


You ain't kidding. I was in Fort Mojave last week and being from WA state all I could do is ask myself... "how in the hell do they ride in this heat?" Even at night it was like 85 degrees... 105+ during the day!

Sorry no info on your lighting but I just had to comment on the AZ heat:ride:

  • Birdy426

Posted May 15, 2009 - 09:35 PM

#4

What year? 426 or 450? On my 426, I am running a trail tech voltage regulator/rectifier and have floated the ground on the lihgting coil per their instructions. I have wired in a low/hi beam switch, and appropriate wire. There's enough juice to light both filaments, power an LED tail lihgt, and a Garmin GPS...but not much else. Even turn signals cause the light to dim...

  • snaggletooth

Posted May 16, 2009 - 06:30 AM

#5

I have been doing it for some time (200+ miles) on my 07 Wr and I love it. Most people will say don't do it! I'll agree That it's not a "bright" idea, LOL. After running it this way I'm hooked. I love the light coverage it puts on the trail at night but I do understand the risk I'm taking.

It also sucks not having a high to low beam option anymore. I would like three options: 1-high, 2-low and 3-both to be used for short periods of time. I have an idea on how to make the three possition option work. What I should be doing is working on getting more juce to the head light so I can run a HID set up or a super bright standard bulb.

Again, not a good idea but since it put's out such good usable light I'll keep it this way untill I do the proper mods. Wish me luck, I might verywell need it some day (I mean night) when I'm left in the dark with some fried wires. I do keep a super bright flash light and tape in my off road tool pack. I'm smiling now but could be crying later, so far sooo good for now.

BTW, my head light is on the A/C circuit. It has a veeery slight flicker at low idle. The slightest rise in RPM makes the beam solid. Think about the risks involved before you try it, S/T.

  • William1

Posted May 16, 2009 - 07:35 AM

#6

I have been doing it for some time (200+ miles) on my 07 Wr and I love it. Most people will say don't do it! I'll agree That it's not a "bright" idea, LOL. After running it this way I'm hooked. I love the light coverage it puts on the trail at night but I do understand the risk I'm taking.

It also sucks not having a high to low beam option anymore. I would like three options: 1-high, 2-low and 3-both to be used for short periods of time. I have an idea on how to make the three possition option work. What I should be doing is working on getting more juce to the head light so I can run a HID set up or a super bright standard bulb.

Again, not a good idea but since it put's out such good usable light I'll keep it this way untill I do the proper mods. Wish me luck, I might verywell need it some day (I mean night) when I'm left in the dark with some fried wires. I do keep a super bright flash light and tape in my off road tool pack. I'm smiling now but could be crying later, so far sooo good for now.

BTW, my head light is on the A/C circuit. It has a veeery slight flicker at low idle. The slightest rise in RPM makes the beam solid. Think about the risks involved before you try it, S/T.



Well said!

  • 1991cbr600f2

Posted January 07, 2010 - 11:48 PM

#7

hello, I have a variation to this question, does any one make a higher wattage bulb, like 50/50 watt??? I will be wiring my high-low beam switch (using a old banshee switch I have) and dont really want to spend alot of money on a new HID light and stator mods.
I am almost happy enough with the stock light, with the lower speeds I ride at night when at the sand dunes.
I read that some guys have wired both filiments on at same time making for a total of 70watts.
So I figure if there is just a different bulb, then it could be a tripple win-win-win for me.
so I could have both a brighter low / high beam, very cost efective, less strain on elec system than both filiments on at same time.

anyone????
this is for my 07 wr450, that I am very very happy with.

Thanks, Corey

  • William1

Posted January 08, 2010 - 03:43 AM

#8

Again, the stock system does not have the power available to run a higher wattage bulb. In addition to that, the plastic lens and reflector may noy be able to handle the greater heat generated from the more powerful bulb.
Keep in mind too, doubling the draw does not double the output, in reality, output only increases about 10%

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  • klossWR450

Posted January 08, 2010 - 05:08 AM

#9

I have the light on my '07 WR wired through high/low beam switch, LOW is for low only, HIGH to run both filaments, it's definately brighter than one, stock stator, have done 2100 km no problems

  • SXP

Posted January 08, 2010 - 11:47 AM

#10

Again, the stock system does not have the power available to run a higher wattage bulb. In addition to that, the plastic lens and reflector may noy be able to handle the greater heat generated from the more powerful bulb.
Keep in mind too, doubling the draw does not double the output, in reality, output only increases about 10%


I thought the stock 03+ plus bikes have a AC/DC 100W/20W split. As the stock headlight is on the AC side of things, and the stock bulb is a 35W/35W bulb, then combined they total 70W which is within the 100W AC output limit. Apart from potential heat related issues and assuming the stock wire feeding both filaments can handle the load, I see no problem combining both filaments (as some have successfully done above).

  • William1

Posted January 08, 2010 - 12:20 PM

#11

I believe it is 55/55 from the stator, totaling 110 watts. Headlight is 30/35 AC I think. It will light but you are over loading the system. You want more lighting juice, you need to float the ground, get a larger R/R and go DC. Then you can replace the headlight and get one that is actually meant to be used at night.

  • SXP

Posted January 08, 2010 - 01:56 PM

#12

I believe it is 55/55 from the stator, totaling 110 watts. Headlight is 30/35 AC I think. It will light but you are over loading the system. You want more lighting juice, you need to float the ground, get a larger R/R and go DC. Then you can replace the headlight and get one that is actually meant to be used at night.


I believe the OP has an 07 (same as me), and I'm pretty sure the stock bulb is 35W/35W. From Baja Designs website:
Bike - WR250F '03+ / 450F '03+
Stock O/P - 100AC/25DC (Dual Output)
Modified O/P - 130DC
Notes - W/Ground Float and BD Voltage Reg

  • yz450fguy

Posted January 08, 2010 - 08:31 PM

#13

Stock stator, no, it will not. Additionally, the wires will be a bit over taxed too, they are not thick enough for the current draw.


I disagree. The stock stator has dual outputs. The stock stator on a WR450f puts out 25W to the battery (converted to DC), and 100W AC for the headlight. The stock H6M bulb is a 35w/35w bulb. The high beam takes the same 35W the low beam takes. If you wanted, you could even run both the high and low at the same time (70W) with a 100w stator output.

The wiring is there on your WR. All you have to do is run the (+) wire to a switch with Hi/Low, then run the correct wires from the switch to the hi or low filiment on the bulb. I have done it to my WR and have never had a problem. i like low in some places and high better in other places.

  • yz450fguy

Posted January 08, 2010 - 08:39 PM

#14

I thought the stock 03+ plus bikes have a AC/DC 100W/20W split. As the stock headlight is on the AC side of things, and the stock bulb is a 35W/35W bulb, then combined they total 70W which is within the 100W AC output limit. Apart from potential heat related issues and assuming the stock wire feeding both filaments can handle the load, I see no problem combining both filaments (as some have successfully done above).


You are absolutely correct. The AC output your lights run on is 100W. High or low is only 35 (07-09 models). Pre 07 (or 06 - which ever got the new design) used an H4 bulb which is a 60/65W. On all the WR's you can safely run the high filiment - it takes the same watts as the low (ok 5W more on the 01-06 model). The stator has dual outputs. What ever you do to your headlight (running on the 100w AC output) won't effect the 20 or 25W output used to feed your battery, tail light, and speedo.

  • 1991cbr600f2

Posted January 08, 2010 - 09:08 PM

#15

anyone try these, are they actually better/brighter or just a gimick??

http://www.yamaha-mo...5/0/detail.aspx

and yes you can get same piaa bulb #70023 for alot less on ebay etc.
just asking if anyone here has tried em before. :moon:

  • William1

Posted January 10, 2010 - 06:13 AM

#16

I just reviewed the BD tech info, there is a bunch of very, very wrong data in it. I know the WR stator is Def. not 25 watts on the DC side but 55. I know the DRZ E/S/SM bikes are 200, not 150.

Take a look at the OEM stator. Look at the coils and how it is wired. For there to be a single 25 watt coil, it'd be a tiny thing and all the coils on the stator are the same size. Then think logically. The OEM lighting draws (include extra for wire resistance) 50 watts. Why have excess there (50+ watts, AC) and such a little amount to recharge the battery. Many of our brethren in other countries get road ready Wr's. These bikes have a horn, tail light, signals. You really think 25 watts will run all that and still keep the battery charged?

For those of you that are driven to prove a point, put an ammeter on each leg along with a volt meter and a varistor. Run the bike at 5K rpm. Keep adding resistance until the voltage falls under 12.8. Take an ammeter reading, calculate the watts. I've floated the ground on my WR so I cannot do this test.




 
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