Here are some 07+ WR duel sport ideas for you


10 replies to this topic
  • snaggletooth

Posted May 11, 2009 - 04:28 PM

#1

I just wanted pass on some duel sport ideas that I have applied to my 07 WR450F. I’m sure there are better ways of doing things but this has worked for me, maybe for you.

Most of my parts are from Procycle - Dual Sport Kits, Components, & Accessories . They are a great company with good prices but most importantly (for me) they have excellent customer service.

I wanted to keep my factory head and tail light so I purchased the duel sport kit that only came with a multi switch, wire harness, horn, LED signals with electronic flasher, and mirror. It looks like they changed the multi switch in the kits to a slimmer design. Mine came with the larger BD type switch (Procycle - Dual Sport Kits, Components, & Accessories). I would rather have the slimmer design. They let me swap out the standard mirror for a keyed kill switch (It looks like they now give a kill switch in all their kits). I like the Acerbis mirror(Acerbis Rear View Mirrors - Chaparral Motorsports), it’s almost useless but meets legal requirements, and it folds out of the way and is indestructible.

The BD type multi switch required a slight mod to the mounting of the hot start lever. All I did was trim off one of the mounting lobes and move it over to the inside mounting hole. You don’t have to trim off the mounting lobe I just like the way it looks.
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I wired the bike so only the flashers, horn, and brake portion of the tail light run off the D/C circuit. The head light and running portion of the tail light run on the A/C circuit. I like it like this because the stuff that stays constantly on while ridding never drawls off the battery. This way my battery is never stressed and is all ways fully charged for my starter. It also allows me to fully black out the bike if I chose to do so. All I have to do is keep off the turn signals and rear brake if I don’t want to be seen at night.

The brake portion of the tail light can’t be deactivated. As a safety measure, if I forget to turn the head and tail lights back on my brake light will still activate. I also left a D/C plug in place so I can switch to D/C power in a couple of seconds if I decided to use the headlight with the bike off (like an expensive flash light).

I recently wired my headlight to run both high and low beams at the same time. The light it throws out on the trail is fantastic. I have heard negative things about doing this, it’s not recommended. Some have had reported problems (street bikes) running both filaments at the same time. I have a lot of hours with the head light in this mode with no bad results so far. One day I’ll go the HID route, until then wish me luck.

I have tried all sorts of turn signals for duel sporting and only one type stood up to my abuse. They are the mini-scoop marker lights Lightworks Scoop LED Marker Lights - Chaparral Motorsports . All other signal lights that I tried would either get kicked off when mounting or get scrubbed off during a crash. Don’t waste your time with non-LED lights unless you like changing bulbs often. Vibration and hard dirt ridding beat the heck out of filament type bulbs. These LED mini-scoops have taken a beating and have never failed me. They can be mounted easily and are bright enough to get the job done. They have a factory adhesive tape but I used a little RTV to ensure they stay put.
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After ridding with my KTM buddy I decided that I would like to have a keyed kill switch for the WR. All I did was wire it to the kill switch wires. It mounted to the sub frame bolt with no mods and looks like a factory set up. For a cheap rotor lock I use one of the many useless trigger locks I have (I prefer to keep my pistol closely supervised and loaded when not in the safe). They used to give them to you on all pistol purchases. Now, I think, they make you buy a small cable lock.
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I won’t get into tires, that can be a can of worms. But I’m still looking for the “perfect“ tire. One that wears like iron on the pavement but hooks up great in the dirt. I could care less about street ride-ability, I’m about 98% off road.

The plate holder “was” a big issue for me. My XR650R ate up a lot of my plate holder designs and so did the WR. My neighbor (retired aero space tech) designed one for me that was perfect for my needs. It worked so well that I had no need for the two extra that I had. The design is simple but well thought out. It’s made out of high grade aluminum that is black powder coated. It has cutouts that make it very lightweight and allow for the use of the stock mounting screws. It is made to fully support the license plate at all four corners and doesn’t require you to drill new holes in the plate. I have well over 1,000+ hard off road miles with it and it has never drooped, bent, cracked, fallen off, or hit the tire during full suspension compression.
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My neighbor just made a bunch more and they come with stainless steel hardware. They are very much discounted for TT’ers. Give Don Lee at Buckeye Lubricants a call (909) 838-0619 if you want one or go to the for sale section. PM me if you have any questions about my WR duel sport ideas or any improvements that I can use.

S/T

  • SXP

Posted May 11, 2009 - 05:17 PM

#2

Looking good, Robert. I'm hooking up with Don tomorrow at noon to buy two of the holders. I'll provide feedback as soon as I've had a chance to test it out.

  • BAHeron

Posted May 12, 2009 - 06:29 AM

#3

"But I’m still looking for the “perfect“ tire. One that wears like iron on the pavement but hooks up great in the dirt. I could care less about street ride-ability, I’m about 98% off road."

Nice set-up Snaggle, I did a lot of the same mods this year. I went with a Kenda 778 for my rear tire, 100 miles on the pavement and it still Hooks good in the dirt. They said it's 90% dirt/10% street and DOT. I'm the same 98% dirt, but who can resist riding to work every now and again. Where did you get the keyed ignition? I kind of leaning that way.

  • snaggletooth

Posted May 12, 2009 - 04:06 PM

#4

I got the key switch from procycle. Bummer, it doesn't look like they sell the same one anymore. They have one that looks close but the mount doesn't look the same as mine (kind of like half of a yin/yang symbal for lack of a better descriptor). I realize that anyone could still push it away but it's better than nothing when you don't have a proper lock with you. Besides, I think it "looks" a little more secure when someone see's you take a key out when parking for a quick stop.

I have tried the K778 but wheelies and hard starts in the street ate it up like the rest : 0 I'm sure it would have lasted longer if I wasn't so hard on it while getting to the dirt.

I'm now trying the Kenda K270 rear ($47.85). They claim that it's a 50%-50% DOT tire. The tight lugs of the K270 reminded me of a trials tire so I'm giving it a try. I have heard many people brag about how well trials tires do off road but I also hear that a trials tire will get eaten up fast on the pavement.

So far the K270 rear is holding up pretty good aginst the pavement. As far as the dirt goes, it hooks up great on the hard pack but totaly sucks in sandy washes and deep soft soil. I liked the Dunlop D606 but it didn't last as long as I hoped and cost @$80.00. I realy want to try the Dunlop D908 but at $130 it won't be in the near future.
S/T

  • SXP

Posted May 13, 2009 - 10:58 AM

#5

My neighbor just made a bunch more and they come with stainless steel hardware. They are very much discounted for TT’ers. Give Don Lee at Buckeye Lubricants a call (909) 838-0619 if you want one or go to the for sale section. PM me if you have any questions about my WR duel sport ideas or any improvements that I can use.

S/T


I picked up my plate holder from Don yesterday and have been considering alternate fastening options. As the holder sits flush up against the underside of the stock tail light, I was thinking about attaching it with some industrial quality velcro instead of permanently screwing it in. My reasoning for this are:

1. It's almost instantly removable if you so desire
2. It would detach without damaging/ripping out the underside of the tail light in the event of a hard crash.

Of course, I would also have some sort of unobtrusive lanyard (like a thin bungee cord) connecting the plate to the fender just in case the velcro connection separated from vibration/gravity (or a crash), and I wouldn't lose the plate.

So, do you think the velcro option will stand up to the rigors of off-road use?

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  • DIX

Posted May 13, 2009 - 01:49 PM

#6

From experience, there is always some sort of bush or tree or what not along the trail that would rip a velcro mount off the bike. Ive hardly ever taken my WR off road and not come home with a newly bent plate. Seems I am straightening it out after every ride.

  • TommyTheKid

Posted May 13, 2009 - 03:17 PM

#7

I was looking for something like this.. I heard the tail light has brake like capability and the headlight has hi/lo beam.. (fwiw, its it high or low by default?).

I wanted to try just getting the TTR-125 (230?) part that replaces the push button ignition switch with a keyed switch.. should almost be a plug/play operation. Although that option isn't cheap...

16 MAIN SWITCH ASSY
5HP-82510-00-00 1 $62.97

... but I might try to swap with my dads TTR-125LE that he always just leaves the keys in anyhow.

For a plate holder I have used a bungee type cord through the holes on the plate and over the rear fender right in front of the tail light. It didn't fall off and I tried hard dropping it in the mud. Of course I really didn't want the plate too visible as it was for a suzuki SV650 anyhow :snore: (I was on trails the whole time anyhow, so I didn't even need it) I do like the looks of that one tho.

I am not too keen on paying insurance and street-taxes on my WR, but now that its motarded, it would be really nice :doh:

Tommy

  • snaggletooth

Posted May 13, 2009 - 07:16 PM

#8

SPX, I wouldn't try the velcor idea. The plate and holder takes a ton of abuse hanging off the back end of the fender while off road. I don't think the velcro will hold up. This plate holder was "originally" designed with only two screw holes, see the above picture. It lasted many hard miles with only two machine screws holding it to the tail light housing. I had Don add two more (total-4) machine screw holes so it's even more secure. It's so secure and robust that I never take mine off, even when I plan on jumping. Full suspention compression, even with lots of fender flex, has never been an issue with this mount. See the below pic where I fully compresed the suspention. lots of room left for fender flex. As far as normal crashing goes, I haven't had a problem there, I'm the king of crashing. I have even fliped the bike several times end over end on a giant steep hill. Lot's of damage to bike parts but the plate held strong. I say mount it and forget it!

One more thing, take a close look at my plate (above pic)! My bike was been plated since the first month away from the dealership. It has been ridden hard enough to justify buying another bike to reduce the high off road milage it was getting. I never had to straighten out my plate after a ride. My XR650R's plate was a different story : (
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If you insisted on velcro the lanyard "might" save you but I think the plate hanging off a lanyard might let it hit the tire and get ripped away any how. Kind of like throwing a small chunk of wood at the blade of a table saw, good o'l high school wood shop stuf.

TommyThe Kid, If I remember right it has a 35w/35w bulb and I'm sure that in factory form it's set to the low beam filament. Let us know how the TTR key switch idea comes out. My son had a TTR125 and I thought about taking his key switch to replace my push button. I can't remeber why I didn't swap it. I think that there was a little more to it than just a plug and play transfer? I still like the idea, let us know how it goes. S/T

  • SXP

Posted May 13, 2009 - 07:43 PM

#9

SPX, I wouldn't try the velcor idea. The plate and holder takes a ton of abuse hanging off the back end of the fender while off road. I don't think the velcro will hold up. This plate holder was "originally" designed with only two screw holes, see the above picture. It lasted many hard miles with only two machine screws holding it to the tail light housing. I had Don add two more (total-4) machine screw holes so it's even more secure. It's so secure and robust that I never take mine off, even when I plan on jumping. Full suspention compression, even with lots of fender flex, has never been an issue with this mount. See the below pic where I fully compresed the suspention. lots of room left for fender flex. As far as normal crashing goes, I haven't had a problem there, I'm the king of crashing. I have even fliped the bike several times end over end on a giant steep hill. Lot's of damage to bike parts but the plate held strong. I say mount it and forget it!

One more thing, take a close look at my plate (above pic)! My bike was been plated since the first month away from the dealership. It has been ridden hard enough to justify buying another bike to reduce the high off road milage it was getting. I never had to straighten out my plate after a ride. My XR650R's plate was a different story : (
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If you insisted on velcro the lanyard "might" save you but I think the plate hanging off a lanyard might let it hit the tire and get ripped away any how. Kind of like throwing a small chunk of wood at the blade of a table saw, good o'l high school wood shop stuf.

TommyThe Kid, If I remember right it has a 35w/35w bulb and I'm sure that in factory form it's set to the low beam filament. Let us know how the TTR key switch idea comes out. My son had a TTR125 and I thought about taking his key switch to replace my push button. I can't remeber why I didn't swap it. I think that there was a little more to it than just a plug and play transfer? I still like the idea, let us know how it goes. S/T


Thanks Robert. I'll probably just bolt it on. Regarding the TTR switch, if I remember back to some old posts, I believe the switch is plug but not play. You have to rearrange some of the wires in the connector and then you are good to go.

  • TommyTheKid

Posted May 14, 2009 - 08:20 AM

#10

Thanks Robert. I'll probably just bolt it on. Regarding the TTR switch, if I remember back to some old posts, I believe the switch is plug but not play. You have to rearrange some of the wires in the connector and then you are good to go.


Dang! I will have to look for that, I was just looking at the parts on the fiche thinking they both had a square 4-wire plug :doh:

Oh well, for now my engine is in multiple pieces and not attached to my bike, so the difference between a push button or keyed ignition switch is rather insignificant :snore:

~tommy

  • 05-WR450F

Posted May 14, 2009 - 04:03 PM

#11

anyone have a picture of this keyswitch?




 
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