I just bought a mxc 300 after years of riding four strokes. So far i find it to be more enjoyable than a 4 stroke but when i get into tighter single track i cant keep it on the pipe. Are there any mods i can do that make it easier to keep on the pipe? I was kind of thinking different gearing might help, im currently running stock. Are there any 2 stroke riding tips you guys can give me?
I cant keep it on the pipe
Started by Braedon12, May 09 2009 05:58 PM
18 replies to this topic
Posted 09 May 2009 - 05:58 PM
I just bought a mxc 300 after years of riding four strokes. So far i find it to be more enjoyable than a 4 stroke but when i get into tighter single track i cant keep it on the pipe. Are there any mods i can do that make it easier to keep on the pipe? I was kind of thinking different gearing might help, im currently running stock. Are there any 2 stroke riding tips you guys can give me?
Posted 09 May 2009 - 06:01 PM
Have you adjusted the power valve? You can make it open as soon as you twist the throttle.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 06:28 PM
I always thought the whole point of the 300 was you did not need to always be on the high end of the dyno.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 06:48 PM
everything I have read you should be able to chugg around and the power is always right there.. wonder if the pv is stuck? My cr250 chuggs and the power is right there ready to shred. I had to install a fww on the cr85 (no pv and a nasty powerband hit) that killed the dead spot right before the pb hit and now it chuggs too. I would check the power valve in the exhaust it might be gunked up from crappy 2t oil. I think the ktm comes with a decent flywheel already, not sure though still riding red!
Posted 09 May 2009 - 08:27 PM
there is a small cover with 2 bolts holding it on and a brass "plug" with a square hole just below the water pump. this is the power valve adjuster. KTM has 3 different springs you can put in there, a red, green, and yellow. the yellow is stock in the bike. New, the bike should have come with the other two. your probably did not, seems with most used bikes the extra springs get misplaced. these springs make a big difference.
even if you don't have the springs, you can still adjust it. the brass looking plug is the adjuster. i use a 1/4" flat screwdriver, it fits fine. turn it in for less of a hit, or out for more of a hit.
with my bike, i use the red spring (softest) and turn it all the way out for the biggest hit possible. its very easy to keep in on the pipe in the woods, and yet its very easy to lug around if i want that too (one thing i love about the 300)
you can get the springs at the KTM dealer if you don't have them.
even if you don't have the springs, you can still adjust it. the brass looking plug is the adjuster. i use a 1/4" flat screwdriver, it fits fine. turn it in for less of a hit, or out for more of a hit.
with my bike, i use the red spring (softest) and turn it all the way out for the biggest hit possible. its very easy to keep in on the pipe in the woods, and yet its very easy to lug around if i want that too (one thing i love about the 300)
you can get the springs at the KTM dealer if you don't have them.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 08:52 PM
ok i understand how to adjust the hit of the power valve but how do i adjust when it opens?
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:04 PM
2 strokes are just a different breed.there is a lot of power but,it's not all usable like the 4t. You have to learn how to make those burst of power work for you. I came from a 4t to a 2t, so I know what you are talking about. I find the 2t more challenging and thats why I love it. keep riding and you will learn to love it also.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:18 PM
1. carry more speed
2. down shift and rev it
If those don't work you can add a tooth to the rear spocket. A FWW won't help you stay on the pipe, it will smooth out the hit, and make the motor easier to ride at low RPM, but it WON'T help what your looking for.
2. down shift and rev it
If those don't work you can add a tooth to the rear spocket. A FWW won't help you stay on the pipe, it will smooth out the hit, and make the motor easier to ride at low RPM, but it WON'T help what your looking for.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:34 PM
mtman said:
1. carry more speed
2. down shift and rev it
If those don't work you can add a tooth to the rear spocket. A FWW won't help you stay on the pipe, it will smooth out the hit, and make the motor easier to ride at low RPM, but it WON'T help what your looking for.
2. down shift and rev it
If those don't work you can add a tooth to the rear spocket. A FWW won't help you stay on the pipe, it will smooth out the hit, and make the motor easier to ride at low RPM, but it WON'T help what your looking for.
What really kills me is my first gear isnt slow enough for some of the technical stuff i ride.
Posted 09 May 2009 - 09:48 PM
sit up on the fuel tank
use the clutch more than the throttle
use the front brake much much more
use the rear brake to set up the change in direction
back to step 1
use the clutch more than the throttle
use the front brake much much more
use the rear brake to set up the change in direction
back to step 1
Posted 10 May 2009 - 06:50 PM
TMrooster said:
sit up on the fuel tank
use the clutch more than the throttle
use the front brake much much more
use the rear brake to set up the change in direction
back to step 1
use the clutch more than the throttle
use the front brake much much more
use the rear brake to set up the change in direction
back to step 1
Sit on the tank=good
Clutch more than throttle = not so good
Front Brake = the only brake you have to have
Rear Brake to steer = Only when necessary, its faster to make rounded corners. Using the rear brake is a necessary evil, but it will lead to bad habits, like cut and shoot riding.
Braedon12 said:
What really kills me is my first gear isnt slow enough for some of the technical stuff i ride.
Thats why you need to carry more speed, that will make 1st work better. But if that doesn't happen, then add a tooth to the rear sprocket, this will make the bike come on the pipe at a slower MPH, and thus make your tranny more to your liking.
Posted 11 May 2009 - 05:19 PM
wheels2 said:
Have you adjusted the power valve? You can make it open as soon as you twist the throttle.
How do I do that? If the valve opened sooner all my problems would be solved.
Posted 11 May 2009 - 05:28 PM
If 1st gear is too fast, why do you feel like you need to be on the pipe?
The 300's make good toquey power below the powerband.... learn to use it.
If the bike is stumbling, clutch it up.
I would try final drive ratios if I were you.
I run 13-50 and ride pretty technical stuff mostly in 2nd gear. Not sure what 'stock' is.
I suppose, if I wanted to rev the piss out of my motor for some unknown reason, I could be in first :excuseme: .
The 300's make good toquey power below the powerband.... learn to use it.
If the bike is stumbling, clutch it up.
I would try final drive ratios if I were you.
I run 13-50 and ride pretty technical stuff mostly in 2nd gear. Not sure what 'stock' is.
I suppose, if I wanted to rev the piss out of my motor for some unknown reason, I could be in first :excuseme: .
Posted 11 May 2009 - 06:54 PM
gear it down if riding tight woods. thats what i did, my 505 will only do 120 kmph but dammm its fast to that speed and back wheel all the way there
Posted 11 May 2009 - 07:12 PM
keeping the 300 on the pipe? WHY?
get a 200 then...
300 dominates all terrain for me, trails, then into single tracks
its simple.. if you want it on the pipe drop the gear... more than likely u wont be going slower than 1st and want the pipe... and if u do its right there..
pipe on technical single track? not needed all the time but just drop a gear
i have a 300 mxc also, it already has shorter gears, and it rips, just add some top end and it can work great on fireroads
but still not needed for any other riding condition, stock pipe is very good compared to the gnarly i just tried...
get a 200 then...
300 dominates all terrain for me, trails, then into single tracks
its simple.. if you want it on the pipe drop the gear... more than likely u wont be going slower than 1st and want the pipe... and if u do its right there..
pipe on technical single track? not needed all the time but just drop a gear
i have a 300 mxc also, it already has shorter gears, and it rips, just add some top end and it can work great on fireroads
but still not needed for any other riding condition, stock pipe is very good compared to the gnarly i just tried...
Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:55 PM
mtman said:
Sit on the tank=good
Clutch more than throttle = not so good
Front Brake = the only brake you have to have
Rear Brake to steer = Only when necessary, its faster to make rounded corners. Using the rear brake is a necessary evil, but it will lead to bad habits, like cut and shoot riding.
Thats why you need to carry more speed, that will make 1st work better. But if that doesn't happen, then add a tooth to the rear sprocket, this will make the bike come on the pipe at a slower MPH, and thus make your tranny more to your liking.
Clutch more than throttle = not so good
Front Brake = the only brake you have to have
Rear Brake to steer = Only when necessary, its faster to make rounded corners. Using the rear brake is a necessary evil, but it will lead to bad habits, like cut and shoot riding.
Thats why you need to carry more speed, that will make 1st work better. But if that doesn't happen, then add a tooth to the rear sprocket, this will make the bike come on the pipe at a slower MPH, and thus make your tranny more to your liking.
i disagree with your therory on the rear brake, although it doesn't help much with stopping power (although is might wel give you an extra 20% in that regaurd over front brakes alone) using the back to set yourself up for a corner is vital, using the rear brake incorrectly won't help your times, but not using it at all is just as bad, learn to use the back brake to control the bikes aditude and your speed will go up, on a four stroke you can be lazy with the rear brake due to engine braking, but on a two stroke you have to get your technique right.








