I just got a brand new 2009 200 XC-W. I think it has a cast piston, at least this is what it says in the manual. I am wondering if you guys are doing any kind of Break-In other than what the manual says. The manual recommends you don't rev it up all the way for 300 miles/5 hrs, and drive with varying loads/RPMs. I recently put a new forged piston into my KX250 and I went through the heat cycle deal to begin the break-in for that bike. Do you think heat cycling is necessary for the new KTM? Or would it be a good idea even if it is not totally necessary like with a forged piston? Thanks for your help. I can't wait to go ride it of course, but I want it to last a long time too so I'll be patient with the Break-In if need-be.

Asking how to break in an engine is like asking what 2-stroke oil to use. 2 billion opinions on how it should be done. Everyone has their own method. If you're worried about it, follow the factory procedure. Just be nice to it until the engine is warmed up....but you should do that to any engine.

Joe

joebiodiesel said:

Well, here is one method out of that 2 billion...


http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

IdaSpode said:

I just did that on a new top end that I installed last weekend. I finished the top end Friday night, warmed her up and took a 30 minute ride varying the throttle but not babying it by any means. Did the same thing Saturday - just a 30 minute ride but opened it up some more and wound it out once or twice.


Then on Sunday I went on a ride with some aggressive riders and went balls-out. The bike absolutely rips, and I'll be checking up to see how the engine looks to see if this procedure really works.

BASSic said:

Did exactly that on a new 250 exc. no heat cycles just warm and ride.

My first couple of tanks through my bike (same as yours) were at 1/2 throttle or less, just puttering around not really hammering or making sudden changes in engine speed. After that, I just started ripping around. I have around 14hrs on the bike now, no issues other than tinkering with the carb jetting.

Oh, and mine's a 300...for some reason I was thinking you were on a 300, so the jetting may differ a bit....

Shuffler said:

What have you done with your carb jetting on the 200XC-W? You are in Colorado too like me so its probably somewhat relevant. When they did the setup on my bike at the shop I got it at, they changed the needle clip position down one from 4 to 3. That was it. In the owners manual, they recommend a smaller pilot, different needle, and a smaller main. I will probably go to the settings given in the manual for my elevation/temp once I am all broke in. Keeping it a little rich now is fine for breaking it in.

Elite jetted mine at clip #2, 38P, 160M, 1.5AS. Seemed to run pretty good, but my mileage sucks. I'm running a Gnarly pipe and Q silencer. Haven't touched the needle yet.

Tried a 40 pilot and 158 main and it was rich on the low end. The other night I tried a plug chop with 38P & 155, and it was way lean (white plug capacitor)

Tonight will try it with a 158 & 38P. I'm guessing it will still be lean on top.

I ordered a JD kit since many guys here are running the red needle with good results, and some are running pretty lean on top with a 152 main and fatter on bottom with a 40 pilot. This is all voodoo to me.

While my low end and top end feel 'okay' to me, there seems to be a major flat spot across the mid range, so I'm thinking the stock needle is too rich for this altitude.

This is my first 2s in a long time, and I have nothing to benchmark against...it's a little frustrating but I'll get it running right.

IdaSpode said:

100% agree. I usually completly warm up the bike check fluids and for leaks. then run it hard through the rpm range and keep it moving so it does not over heat. New engines will build more heat than a broken in one will. No tight single track for at least a hour. CJ

This is slightly different but...
I run nitro r/c's. A few years ago I got "my baby". I really took it easy and broke it in like they suggest - heat cycling.
It broke a conrod after a few months. Got in my new one and I decided to just rip it up so if it wanted to blow it would still be under warranty.
That dang engine is still ripping it up to this day which is crazy for a nitro engine in a heavy monster truck.

I ride my 08 200XCW at or near sea level and it spooged really bad for the first 15 hours with stock factory jetting. After that it spooges less but still to some extent. As for breakin, I just heat cycled it a couple of times and took it somewhat easy for the first 5 hours. Then just warm it up and go. It now has 22 hours on it and I had to change the plug because it fouled out. I think the stock jetting is a little too fat. Some guys said to get a needle for a Honda 2 stroke 250, don't recall what year, but I have had trouble locating one.
Frankly, the bike is a bit of a disappointment overall and I find myself wanting to ride my 4 stroke most of the time. I hope you like yours better than I do mine.

The one critical difference between a re-build and a entirely new motorcycle break in, is that a majority of the bearings have been run-in on a re-built motor. ( which is why the flog it mentality tends to survive ) So that first couple of hours, it's really worth it to 'play nice' on a brand new vehicle - because not only is the motor bedding in, but so are all the of the bearings in the crank, transmission, rear wheels, drive train, etc etc. The resident resistance of new bearings ( called stiction ) adds a significant load to your new motor. So... it's worth it to let everything run in a bit before you really nail it - the motor will feel like it's 'come up' in power as the stiction load decreases during the run-in period.

I just putted mine around for about a half hour, went through the gears but didn't get on it too hard at all, then let it sit a half hour, then ripped and everything was all good.