00' WR mods.
Posted March 27, 2001 - 05:55 AM
What I've got is a stock bike, and would like to start out doing some of the most inexpensive things, and then leading up to pipes and things.
All of the items that I've found in other post seem to keep being debated. I know that this is not an exact science, but there should be some general guide lines.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Posted March 27, 2001 - 06:03 PM
For technical stuff I dropped my primary drive gear 1 tooth. Some folks like to replace the rear by two teeth. But try the front first and go from there.
Removed the air filter lid. Added White Brothers air filter. I kept the original so I always have one clean and swap back and forth.
Added White Brothers E series exhaust and for now kept stock header.
My bike didn't have the throttle stop since it came from Canada. But I would definitely trim it down. Check TT archives for instructions on how to do this.
Added Scotts triple clamp and stablizer with Pro-taper bars.(Bitchen).
Added Acerbis bark buster hand guards mounted to the Yamaha triple clamp mounts.(very cool and sturdy).
Added Works Conection radiator guards for a little extra protection.
Optional...removed head light and ODO since I don't use them and didn't want to trash it in case I want to sell the bike later and include them. I replaced the light with an after marked number plate.
I find that WR timing is fine with me. Especially with the lower gearing the bike produces monster power.
Uh, I probably forgot something but that is basically it. I have had my bike now since last summer and am still jazzed about it. Oh, one last thing. There is a breather tube that is routed on the left side bottom of the engine. If you ride through streams you may want to re-route it up towards the handle bars just in case you stall in the water. I have ordered the Ty Davis hot start system but haven't received it yet. Therefore, can't comment too much on it. But from the research I have done it will be a valuable addition. If you didn't get a spoke wrench with your bike, get one! Check the spokes for tightness after every ride. They will loosen up. Hope this helps.
Posted March 27, 2001 - 06:09 PM
It's your world, I just play in it!
'00WR 400, WB E-Series S-Bend w/7 discs, Stock header, throttle stop removed, airbox cover removed. Elev 4500ft. Stock jetting.
Posted March 28, 2001 - 10:19 PM
1) Remove or make a very large opening in the airbox cover.
2) Main jet around 172-180
3) pilot jet around 45
4) Shorten or replace the throttle stop screw with the YZ 426 screw.
5) Air filter
7) optional timeing(?)
Anything I've missed?
Posted March 28, 2001 - 10:59 PM
I would suggest looking at a YZ style tank and seat (allows better cornering) or a steering damper (stability, safety and less arm pump). These items are slightly less in cost than a pipe and after having all three on my bike. I would not buy the pipe first. If I had it all to do over again.
As they say IMHO
97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards, Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC.
Posted March 28, 2001 - 02:10 PM
i would do whatever i thought the bike suffered from, next. that is the most important thing.
when i bought my WR99 i went from 14 x50 to 15 x 48. then i went back to 14 x 50 & now i'm on 15 x 48 even for racing.
i had the forks & rear shock done which were woeful in 98 & 99.
the next problem was stalling so i put a 10oz flywheel weight on. then i put a magura juice clutch on so that i could feather the clutch. i have cleaned up the low speed jetting as well so that i can run the taller gearing. i now ride the bike doing trials manuevres that were simply impossible a year ago.
the next problem was front wheel washout, so the tank/seat became a YZ by IMS & the tank by clark.
i was getting hand cramp, also that i wasn't getting far enough forward, so i bought a top clamp that took protapers & i could now send them forward 40mm.
to also help the hand cramp i went to progrip handlebar rubbers.
i dropped the forks through 13mm & infact i'm now up to 18mm. the rear end was jacked up for my 200lb by fitting a 5.5kg spring & setting the sag is hard as i felt comfortable. the resulting quick steering & lack of washout has improved the bike immensely.
here is a list of my silly nik-naks;
hot start button on right bar for after stalling in races.
kill button on right for plug chops.
bent levers so that i can pull with two fingers.
grease nipples on the rear brake, S/A (x4), steering head.
metal strip to keep mudflap 'open' & therefore stop undue rubbing.
ducati valve stem welded to top of gear lever for optimum foot position gearchanges.
grind down S/A so that chain guide doesn't wear.
taff cam timing.
carb as per other posts.
both top engine plates on the left for 1-minute carb work.
bunjy hooks holding top of headlamp so i can squeeze gloves & maps down the back.
no clamps to hold fork sliders.
rear subframe 1 1/2" cut out to lower the seat height.
that's about it i think.
if my order from two-dads hadn't been lost i would have also fitted;
fmf pb header
scotts short offset triple clamps
i would like to find a used YZ tank here in the UK but there aren't any about. i don't think USPO would have appreciated that one!