VIN Replacement?


17 replies to this topic
  • intensem1rider

Posted April 25, 2009 - 05:44 PM

#1

I sent my frame out to be powder coated since I don't have a big enough oven to do it myself. And the goof sandblasted off my VIN number. What options do I have to get one legally put back on? I have my title and everything but when I bring this bike across the Canada/USA boarder, eventually it's going to get looked at and I want to prevent my bike from being seized.

Any suggestions?

  • Nosebag

Posted April 25, 2009 - 05:53 PM

#2

Powder coating is thick. The VIN is still under there somewhere.

  • intensem1rider

Posted April 25, 2009 - 06:32 PM

#3

Trust me, it's gone, I had it coated a candy blue, it is transparent.

Is there government issued stickers or anything I can get printed to replace it?

  • Chuck.

Posted April 25, 2009 - 06:37 PM

#4

Sandblasting for paint prep will not remove the VIN if it was steel stamped into the steering head. If it was on a tag that was rivited to the steering head then they should have removed it before sandblasting.

You should be able to remove the powder coat over the VIN number area by sanding or filing, the paint will still be in the depressions of the stamped numbers.

  • XHMXR

Posted April 25, 2009 - 06:42 PM

#5

I sent my frame out to be powder coated since I don't have a big enough oven to do it myself. And the goof sandblasted off my VIN number. What options do I have to get one legally put back on? I have my title and everything but when I bring this bike across the Canada/USA boarder, eventually it's going to get looked at and I want to prevent my bike from being seized.

Any suggestions?


Typically in CA you will have to scrape off the powder coat over the vin. If you are stopped by a ranger he will give you a knife and watch you do it. If you have a steel frame its easy but with an aluminum frame be very careful or you will obliterate the number. That will cost you a fixit ticket. Then you will have to go to a CHP office and make arrangements to meet with the officer that verifies and/or issues (new construction) numbers. I have heard that in San Joaquin county there is a waiting list that.s a couple of months behind. This process can be a catch 22. Usually a fix it ticket has to be taken care of within 1 to 11/2 months and if you can't get an appointment for 2-3 months you have to get an extension. A lot of the knock off bikes that are coming into the USA dont have VINs so thats the reason for the waiting list.

  • intensem1rider

Posted May 03, 2009 - 09:17 AM

#6

Well, I just went out a scraped off the PC with a razor blade and yes, the vin is 100% gone. FRIG!

  • kc_450_X

Posted May 03, 2009 - 10:02 AM

#7

go to a parts store and buy a # punch set... probably going to need a few sets. Line all the punches up in correct order and weld them together. Then re-punch the VIN #.

You could do it by hand with a single number at a time but it very hard to get all the #'s nice and straight.

  • JB MCS

Posted May 03, 2009 - 10:03 AM

#8

picture?

if he could sandblast off the vin on the steel frame, you should have a talk about it. no one should be that dumb at sandblasting...

assuming the VIN IS stamped on the frame, not just riveted?

  • londonbkokblockin

Posted May 03, 2009 - 10:56 AM

#9

i know California calls for the Vin on the case , even if its a tag riveted on , has to be affixed to the bike

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  • intensem1rider

Posted May 03, 2009 - 11:36 AM

#10

I was just going to ask about those number punches :excuseme: I measured a friends vin number (same bike) and I need 4mm punches. I then took the measurements and played with microsoft word until I had an identical vin number (spacing and all) i'm going to get some of those metal stamp punches and tape the printed off vin number to the steer tube and hammer in the vin number again.

How well do those metal stamp punches work? Are they a pain in the but?

  • kc_450_X

Posted May 03, 2009 - 11:52 AM

#11

They work good as long as you make the first hit count... Aluminum is obviously easier that steel... good luck, that stencil idea is good:thumbsup:

  • klxd

Posted May 03, 2009 - 01:22 PM

#12

I'd look into doing it the right way first. It takes some skill/technique to make the numbers look consistant especially on a curved surface and I doubt if you can get the right "font". A sharp inspector might catch it.

  • DIERDORF_237

Posted May 03, 2009 - 01:54 PM

#13

OP, are you sure you scraped the PC off in the right place? According to your signature you have a steel frame, so the only way the VIN would be gone is if your powdercoater took a grinder to it. Sandblasting won't remove any material. Don't you think if sandblasters were strong enough to blast away steel, they wouldn't use them on something like a frame because of what it would do to the structural integrity? It has to be buried under the powdercoating.

  • intensem1rider

Posted May 03, 2009 - 03:04 PM

#14

I know where the vin number is/was. I could see it ever so faintly shining a light on it. But when I used paint stripper to strip the paint away then tried to highlight what was left of the vin, there wasn't enough to show the numbers. Only about 3 numbers can be seen very very faintly. The other 14 numbers/letters are completely blasted away. He blasted it twice since he screwed up the PC the first time around. Trust me, the Vin IS gone.

  • db330

Posted May 03, 2009 - 04:12 PM

#15

I know where the vin number is/was. I could see it ever so faintly shining a light on it. But when I used paint stripper to strip the paint away then tried to highlight what was left of the vin, there wasn't enough to show the numbers. Only about 3 numbers can be seen very very faintly. The other 14 numbers/letters are completely blasted away. He blasted it twice since he screwed up the PC the first time around. Trust me, the Vin IS gone.


put up a picture it is the only way they will believe you, but stmping is the only way out of it, the best way to do it is to put the head in a vice and weld the stamps and a big lump hammer.

and good luck with it

  • Chickenhauler

Posted May 03, 2009 - 10:35 PM

#16

I'd look into doing it the right way first. It takes some skill/technique to make the numbers look consistant especially on a curved surface and I doubt if you can get the right "font". A sharp inspector might catch it.


Not only that, but most VIN numbers are not punched with a conventional die, but done with a micro-pin punch. Essentially, it's a bunch of little pins that stamp the VIN instead of one sharp edge.

  • schrode

Posted May 03, 2009 - 10:43 PM

#17

the vin for the frame on my v-twin was stamped on the underside of the trans-mount, which was going to be totally blocked by the shocks so i used a stamp kit from harbor freight to stamp it onto the plate under the seat that i welded to the frame for the rear fender. this was a ground up custom bike that the washington state patrol inspected and they had no problem with the location of the vin or the fact that all the numbers/letters weren't perfectly straight. but they did match the mso and whatnot. good luck

  • jc7622

Posted July 04, 2009 - 08:02 AM

#18

I had the same problem on my bike. The KX VIN's are so faint that blasting-painting-stripping-blasting-powdercoating has obliterated them. I bought a punch set from Harbor Freight and did some test punches on an old frame. The results were not really readable. I'm pretty good with my hands and usually don't have trouble getting things to work right, but these punches didn't work very well - especially on a curved head tube.





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