Please I need help with an oil change


12 replies to this topic
  • Maxed-out

Posted April 21, 2009 - 06:52 AM

#1

I just want some tips on how to change the oil on the yz426. I’m new to this, it’s my first time, if you can help i would appreciate all the info i can get:thumbsup:

?1) Now is there only one oil that runs through the whole bike, or is there two separate oils, (trans & motor)? Im thinking theres one?

?2) Off the top of your head what parts do I need to do this maintenance project (oil change)? Do they make a re-useable oil filter?

?3) should I replace the oil pump?

?4) What kind of oil should I use if im riding on the street/SM?

I Thank you all in advance for your help and feed back, I really like to come here and rely on all you TT members because I feel you all know the most with hands on experience.

  • 426 NOOB

Posted April 21, 2009 - 08:52 AM

#2

I just want some tips on how to change the oil on the yz426. I’m new to this, it’s my first time, if you can help i would appreciate all the info i can get:thumbsup:

?1) Now is there only one oil that runs through the whole bike, or is there two separate oils, (trans & motor)? Im thinking theres one?

?2) Off the top of your head what parts do I need to do this maintenance project (oil change)? Do they make a re-useable oil filter?

?3) should I replace the oil pump?

?4) What kind of oil should I use if im riding on the street/SM?

I Thank you all in advance for your help and feed back, I really like to come here and rely on all you TT members because I feel you all know the most with hands on experience.


1.There is only one oil for trans and motor. There are two drain plugs though. One on frame behind front tire, and one on bottom of case.
2. The only things you will need is oil, maybe new copper washers for the drain plugs if they leak, and a filter. The best SS oil filter you can get is a scotts, so i would highly recommend one (do a search on this there are many threads).
3. The oil pump probably does not need to be replaced, there is a test you can do by loosening one of the feed lines and if oil pushes out you are good. This is in detail in the manual, which are in the common threrads sticky (highly reccomend getting one for free).
4. The best oil that you can run is amsoil mcf hands down as will say grayracer. Especially when youre running long stretches of high rpms. Dont run cheap stuff, it will save you heartache if you run good oil.

The procedure to change oil is to start bike and let idle for a min or two, then shut down. Pull drain plug on frame behind tire and pull the dipstick out of the frame as well. When frame stops draining, put the plug back in and pull the crankcase plug and let that drain. Button them both back up, then lean the bike over on its left side and take the oil filter cover off. Replace filter and inspect the rubber seals for the cover. If they are worn replace them. Button that back up and add about 11/2 qt. of oil. This is about what mine takes, but start at 11/4 and go from there. Start bike and let idle for minute. Shut off, pull dip stick, wipe it and replace it but do not thread it in then check oil level.
Hope this helps.

  • Maxed-out

Posted April 21, 2009 - 10:25 AM

#3

1.There is only one oil for trans and motor. There are two drain plugs though. One on frame behind front tire, and one on bottom of case.
2. The only things you will need is oil, maybe new copper washers for the drain plugs if they leak, and a filter. The best SS oil filter you can get is a scotts, so i would highly recommend one (do a search on this there are many threads).
3. The oil pump probably does not need to be replaced, there is a test you can do by loosening one of the feed lines and if oil pushes out you are good. This is in detail in the manual, which are in the common threrads sticky (highly reccomend getting one for free).
4. The best oil that you can run is amsoil mcf hands down as will say grayracer. Especially when youre running long stretches of high rpms. Dont run cheap stuff, it will save you heartache if you run good oil.

The procedure to change oil is to start bike and let idle for a min or two, then shut down. Pull drain plug on frame behind tire and pull the dipstick out of the frame as well. When frame stops draining, put the plug back in and pull the crankcase plug and let that drain. Button them both back up, then lean the bike over on its left side and take the oil filter cover off. Replace filter and inspect the rubber seals for the cover. If they are worn replace them. Button that back up and add about 11/2 qt. of oil. This is about what mine takes, but start at 11/4 and go from there. Start bike and let idle for minute. Shut off, pull dip stick, wipe it and replace it but do not thread it in then check oil level.
Hope this helps.



AWSOME!!! Thats what i need to know, THANK YOU SO MUCH!:banghead:

  • 426 NOOB

Posted April 21, 2009 - 12:34 PM

#4

AWSOME!!! Thats what i need to know, THANK YOU SO MUCH!:banghead:


no prob.

  • Maxed-out

Posted April 21, 2009 - 04:09 PM

#5

no prob.



Sweet man i did it all and it all worked out nice! But there was only one thing, when I took out the frame drain plug it squrited all over the place, all on my front tire!! totally missed my drain bowl! HAHAHAHA owell you live and you learn. Thanks again.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 21, 2009 - 04:12 PM

#6

Turn the wheel to the side and hold the pan up close. :banghead:

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  • Maxed-out

Posted April 21, 2009 - 04:19 PM

#7

Turn the wheel to the side and hold the pan up close. :banghead:


HAHAH I know i wish i knew that when i first did it:banghead: But forsure next time:thumbsup:

  • gbalias

Posted April 21, 2009 - 05:28 PM

#8

or loosen the line it feeds to at the side of the engine.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 21, 2009 - 06:59 PM

#9

or loosen the line it feeds to at the side of the engine.

Some like doing it that way. I don't. IMO, it unnecessarily disturbs a fitting and O-ring that are better left alone, and using the drain plug is easier, and completely mess free if the least caution is used.

  • gbalias

Posted April 21, 2009 - 07:27 PM

#10

ive done this since orings are 'more' reusable than the crush washers. the fitting isnt disturbed. i loosen the bolt enough to let the oil drain and voila. tighten her back up...good to go. then youre only using one big drain can once. :banghead: i dont make a mess either.

  • 426 NOOB

Posted April 21, 2009 - 08:18 PM

#11

Sweet man i did it all and it all worked out nice! But there was only one thing, when I took out the frame drain plug it squrited all over the place, all on my front tire!! totally missed my drain bowl! HAHAHAHA owell you live and you learn. Thanks again.


haha, sorry bout that, i knew I forgot something. lol

  • Maxed-out

Posted April 21, 2009 - 09:21 PM

#12

haha, sorry bout that, i knew I forgot something. lol


Its all good. Cant cover everything.:banghead:

  • Bkew

Posted July 24, 2009 - 12:35 PM

#13

Excellent info, I needed to know how much oil and what brand today and sure enough here it is. Great Forum this is...!





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