Change the intake valve shims? or let it ride?


11 replies to this topic
  • Diesel_Junkie

Posted April 07, 2009 - 11:14 AM

#1

I just checked my valve clearance at 120hours.
Exhaust side is fine.

Intake side takes a little nudge to get the minimum 0.1mm shim in there, and the 0.08mm shim slides in totally loose. The manual claims 0.1mm minimum. Same thing on all 3 intake valves.

Would you guys re shim? or let it ride for another 100 hours or so? I would rather leave the cam alone if I dont have to pull it off.

  • starfish

Posted April 07, 2009 - 11:28 AM

#2

Adjust them........ Mine where on the slightly tight side. It made the low/mid range better. Tight valves cause more overlap creating a egr effect. Its kind of a pain but worth it. jim

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 07, 2009 - 11:36 AM

#3

I just checked my valve clearance at 120hours.
Exhaust side is fine.

Intake side takes a little nudge to get the minimum 0.1mm shim in there, and the 0.08mm shim slides in totally loose. The manual claims 0.1mm minimum. Same thing on all 3 intake valves.

Would you guys re shim? or let it ride for another 100 hours or so? I would rather leave the cam alone if I dont have to pull it off.


"if the minimum isn't the minimum then its not really a minimum".

as I recall, last time we checked your valves, which was at around 40hours, you had to push the feeler to pop it in. which I thought was BS :thumbsup: . but, it was tight to begin with. so have they really changed? if they arn't changing then you are still fine.

  • init ref

Posted April 07, 2009 - 12:58 PM

#4

Dunno how much you hammer your WR but I just checked mine today (3rd time in 2+ yrs) and they are in spec. Did one adjustment at around 50 hrs (2 intakes a little tight) but since then they haven't moved. It's done probably 3000 miles of 70% trails, 10% fast track/fire roads and 20% street (70 and under) getting to/from riding areas.

Solid bikes. Just remember to give the swingarm and linkage a little love from time to time.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted April 07, 2009 - 01:40 PM

#5

"if the minimum isn't the minimum then its not really a minimum".

as I recall, last time we checked your valves, which was at around 40hours, you had to push the feeler to pop it in. which I thought was BS :confused: . but, it was tight to begin with. so have they really changed? if they arn't changing then you are still fine.


Well said :thumbsup:

  • diegox450

Posted April 07, 2009 - 01:44 PM

#6

4400 miles on my '06... still in spec !! :thumbsup:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Diesel_Junkie

Posted April 07, 2009 - 02:56 PM

#7

the first time I checked them after break in, I had to push the minimum spec shim in. This time it was a little tighter, They arent moving much.

I decided to go ahead and do it, i just got back from the local service shop with 2 new shims. I figure that $19 and 2 hours of work is worth putting the clearances in spec. Plus I have this week and next week off from work and its raining outside.....

The correct version of the quote is:
"If the minimum wasn't good enough, it wouldn't be the minimum."

  • GCannon

Posted April 07, 2009 - 04:28 PM

#8

Do not over torque the cam caps!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get this right whatever it takes!!!!! and lube the cap bolt threads!!

  • Frostbite

Posted April 07, 2009 - 05:30 PM

#9

A question to those who are checking valve clearances themselves - are your feeler strips straight or curved?
I bought 4 sets of feeler strips, and prebent a couple so they would slip in around the cam easier. What I found is that a curved feeler strip felt very loose, and the same size straight feeler strip had a good feel, like it was the proper clearance, but it was not. I think when using straight feeler strips, the drag you feel is more from the strip touching things as it makes it's way under the cam, and you're not feeling the actual clearance.

Has anyone else noticed something similiar?

  • Demo_Slug

Posted April 07, 2009 - 11:25 PM

#10

Do not over torque the cam caps!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get this right whatever it takes!!!!! and lube the cap bolt threads!!


I need a new torque wrench :confused: I don't trust mine anymore. we had it set to 5ft pounds and it snapped the cam tensioner bolt. :thumbsup: luckly it was just the bolt.

  • ncampion

Posted April 08, 2009 - 08:05 AM

#11

A question to those who are checking valve clearances themselves - are your feeler strips straight or curved?
I bought 4 sets of feeler strips, and prebent a couple so they would slip in around the cam easier. What I found is that a curved feeler strip felt very loose, and the same size straight feeler strip had a good feel, like it was the proper clearance, but it was not. I think when using straight feeler strips, the drag you feel is more from the strip touching things as it makes it's way under the cam, and you're not feeling the actual clearance.

Has anyone else noticed something similiar?


I agree with the bent feeler guage idea. I did the same with my guages and get a much more accurate reading with the bent guage. A straight feeler will have to bend to get under the cam and may feel tight when it's really OK.

  • WR_Dave

Posted April 08, 2009 - 09:10 AM

#12

I had a friend bring back a set of Draper tools feeler blades from the UK last year.( http://www.drapertoo...c/b2cbrowse.pgm ) Go to the top search header and type in feeler blades. I got the small sets and wish now that I had gotten the larger sets, but they are narrower and tapered. They work much easier than any of the standard ones that I have found in North America.
WR Dave




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.