loctite not hardening???


12 replies to this topic
  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:33 PM

#1

I just bought my first drz a couple of weeks ago and was doing the loctite fixes before i took it out. I cleaned the stator bolts and holes one @ a time applied a drop of red loctite and tourqed them back down to spec. I left the stator cover off when I came back 48 hours later to check how hard it would be to pull them back out they came out easily like i didnt even put threadloc on them. Should i put the cover back on and fill it up with oil and quit worring? Thanks for any help in advance.

  • chrisf608

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:41 PM

#2

I wouldnt use red loctite Once that stuff cures use most the time have to use heat to break it loose. Blue stuff is really all you need medium strength. side cover bolts arent really to much to worry about.

  • tedhone

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:41 PM

#3

Loctite in an anaerobic. It will not dry in the presence of air. OK, I have had very old bottles get all crusty, but in general......anyway.

Not sure if this explains or not. How much did you apply. Doesn't take much so you should have applied enough.

Were the threads free of greas and oil before you applied it? Try cleaning everything with Contact Cleaner or Brake Cleaner and try again.

  • Lecky

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:42 PM

#4

Did you use the correct thread locking locktite? I'm no locktite expert but some are aerobic and some anaerobic. Meaning some go off in air and some don't.

  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:43 PM

#5

no im talkin about the stator bolts i dont want them backin out and wreckin my stator

  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 22, 2009 - 06:49 PM

#6

I used brake cleaner to clean the bolt and threads and let it dry before putting it back together. I used permatex red thread locker

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 22, 2009 - 09:57 PM

#7

does anyone know how long a person should wait to put oil in the motor after they loctite the primary nut and the stator?

  • genbud78

Posted March 22, 2009 - 10:11 PM

#8

does anyone know how long a person should wait to put oil in the motor after they loctite the primary nut and the stator?


I don't think there is really a set time. I've read about people that let it stand a day or so and others that did the fix, topped off the oil and coolant and took off. I personally let mine stand a full day before I put oil and coolant back in it......:thumbsup:

  • Noble

Posted March 22, 2009 - 10:42 PM

#9

Well, it does sound fishy.

Were you using Loctite brand thread locker or another brand? Not really a problem either way unless it was some Harbor Freight imitation.

What torque is torque to spec?

What did you use to clean parts?

Loctite seals and bonds the threads. It is hard to say what you should see for break-a-way torque. I would expect to find it higher than assy.

Did you find red power or other residue on the threads?

You can degrease the screws but not very good on the threaded holes. This will reduce the effectiveness of the Loctite. But not to worry, even Loctite says it still has some affect on oily parts.

Use commonly available hi-strength "red". As you see, it is not all that permanent.

Loctite says you can add oil and put back into service right away, but I feel better with a 24 hr cure.

Thread lockers are anaerobic. Depending on product they need a restricted space to cure. Most products are less than .005 space to cure. Less space for best bond.

Are you stator screws zinc plated? (silvery color) If so, discard and go buy some grade 10.9 or 12.9 replacements that are black (black oxide). (Heads are marked with strength). With Zinc screws, a primer may be needed plus the zinc is an anti-seize

  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 23, 2009 - 06:34 AM

#10

It was loctite brand red thread locker. Tightend to 84 inch pounds. Ill go buy some grade 10.9 or 12.9 screws cause these look to be zinc plated or stainless steel. Thanks for the help.

  • Noble

Posted March 23, 2009 - 09:03 AM

#11

rs - OK

The original stator screws are 10.9. With grade 10.9 you can use 100 inch pounds. If you go with grade 12.9, you can use 120 inch pounds. As you probably know, the torque spec given in the manual is wrong so you are kind of on your own to determine the correct torque. The above numbers are conservative and work fine. 84 in lb is for grade 8.8 screws. Most of the time I recommend go light on torques but with the stator you want to use the full value.

I forgot to ask about temp. Temp does have an affect on cure time. It would be good if the temp of the parts was at least above 50 deg for a 24 hr cure. 70 deg would be better.

  • rsfoxrider

Posted March 23, 2009 - 09:57 PM

#12

i bought some grade 12.9 screws and put them in with red thread lock then tourqued them to 110 inch pounds

  • Noble

Posted March 23, 2009 - 10:09 PM

#13

Perfect





Related Content

Reviews

Suzuki DR-Z400SM 2015 by Bryan Bosch


Suzuki DR-Z400SM 2015
  • - - - - -
  • 0 reviews
Reviews

Suzuki DR-Z400SM 2013 by hondajon80


Suzuki DR-Z400SM 2013
  • * * * * -
  • 14 reviews
  • Last review by orundle
  • On September 19, 2014
Reviews

Suzuki DR-Z400S 2015 by Bryan Bosch


Suzuki DR-Z400S 2015
  • - - - - -
  • 0 reviews
Forums
Photo

Wheelie discussion by Chubs604


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Suzuki   DR-Z 400
  • Hot  136 replies
Forums
Photo
Nevada

MY BIKE WAS STOLEN LAST NIGHT…. 9/1-2/2014 Las Vegas. by ARMRD X


Dirt Bike   Dirt Bike Regional Discussion   Southwest
  • 8 replies
 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.