How to tighten rotor nut ?

7 replies to this topic
  • powerride2

Posted February 21, 2003 - 11:36 AM


Can you tighten the rotor nut thru the inspection cover? Or do you have to take the entire side case off?
It is 61 Ft. Lbs. according to my "updated" manual. It is frame number 584.

  • wr250rr

Posted February 21, 2003 - 11:43 AM


I tried through the inspection cover. In gear with the brake on, and did not work.
Tighten it to 47 ft-lb, losen it, then retorque to 47 again.

  • Jim_Patterson

Posted February 22, 2003 - 02:22 AM


Put it in 5th gear and have someone else press the brake pedal for you. Have him sit on the bike and have the rear wheel on the ground.

  • wr250rr

Posted February 22, 2003 - 05:51 AM


Is that how you did it? I tried that and found myself pushing so hard on the brake that it concerned me.
So I pulled the cover. :)

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  • Burnrider

Posted February 22, 2003 - 05:53 AM


If you torque on the crank its always best to use the holder for the stator or primary gear. Some tuners claim you twist the crank by applying pressure from the stator to the primary gear when you brake at the rear wheel. I don't know if its true or what options you have for special stator holding type tools.

  • Wrench

Posted February 22, 2003 - 07:01 AM


You don't need a special tool there is a backup built into the rotor all you need is a 15/16 wrench it's in the manual page 4-78 and 4-81. you need to pull the cover there is a hidden bolt under the electric starter gear cover access plate.

  • beezer

Posted February 22, 2003 - 12:05 PM


If I need to loosen or tighten a nut on the motor I put the bike in top gear and put a breaker bar through the spokes right against the nipple.

Crude but it works. If the bike has the side cover off I use a shop rag in between the primary gears.

  • Burnrider

Posted February 22, 2003 - 12:38 PM


If you have a built in puller you don't need this:

I will try to describe this without a picture. You can make a basic puller if you have 2 sections of schedule 40 pipe about 1-1/2" wide. For example 3" and 3-1/2".

1) Cut the 3-1/2" pipe section so you have an arc 3-4" long.
2) Then cut the smaller (3") about 1-2" long.
3) Drill and tap the larger section 1/2 to 5/8" for a threaded rod.
4) Weld a nut or base with a hole to the smaller inside section.
5) LAST- Cut a piece of 12-14 ga steel and use two screws on either side to secure it to the larger (3-1/2) section.
You then use the rod to thread through the large section and push the small section against the rotor to tighten the band of steel around the rotor.

This is basically an old Bultaco flywheel puller. I have changed the bands for anything I need to hold. To cushion the interior 'foot' I glued on a piece of leather.

If you can bend some 3/16" steel on your own all you need is some welding and a good drill or drill press.


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