Preliminary data on woodruff key failures
Posted March 24, 2003 - 04:10 PM
Thats the fix. Took Yamaha four months to come up with that one.LOL.
Probubly take another four months to figure out how to notify the dealer...
I shouldn't complain. My dealer is excellent and I'm completly satisfied with them, despite Yamahas attempt to sweep this issue under the table.
Posted March 24, 2003 - 04:31 PM
tell your dealer to call tom's... they still seem to be clueless. LOL.
Posted March 24, 2003 - 04:47 PM
Posted March 24, 2003 - 05:03 PM
Posted March 24, 2003 - 05:21 PM
the mechanic at Extreme is good. He wrenches for Sarah Whitmore,professional womens motocross #4. He read the unofficial TSB and said to me. "Do you want to do what this says. Or do you want it really fixed." I said "fix it like it was your bike".
So he removed the flywheel. Cleaned and inspected. Lapped the crank and rotor. Re-installed the flywheel with Red Loctite. Torqued to 47 lbs,backed off the nut and re-torqued to 47 lbs.
He said the flywheel/rotor wont go anywhere now. Like Superbike Mike said, the only way it's comming apart is with a torch.
Whens the last time you had to pull your flywheel??? Famous last words.LOL.
Posted March 24, 2003 - 08:53 PM
Posted March 25, 2003 - 07:43 AM
I beleive the flywheel is stock - although it came from California instead of the factory and was said to be hand machined. One thing I didn't mention, I've heard speculation from some of the Yamaha folks the taper is too short due to the space required for the additional e-start gears. Apparently the YZ 450 has a much longer taper hence no problems. I know there's been some TT discussion on this as well. Guess only time will tell. Looks like my days of riding alone are history.
Posted March 25, 2003 - 09:35 AM
Posted March 25, 2003 - 04:54 PM
Posted March 26, 2003 - 06:10 AM
I understand your concern on doing it right. However, I'd caution you to consider Yamaha may not want to provide any future warranty work for the defect if they learn that the initial work wasn't done by one of their own. The guy who did my work confirmed this saying I was correct in not attempting to fix the problem myself. It may not be an issue but you never know.
Posted March 26, 2003 - 03:45 PM
He says that Yamaha is jetting the bikes lean, which is causing the backfire which is breaking the woodruff key. He said this is unrelated to the torquing of the rotor nut. (huh?)
He said they were replacing the key. I asked if this would happen again since it's lean, and he said "Yup". He said I needed to richen the jetting which they wanted $100. He said now that I know about this problem, if the key breaks again due to the bike being too lean then they would NOT service the bike again at no charge.
What a load of bullshit!
I called Yamaha and complained, and they mentioned that their service tech should be calling the Regional Tech Advisor (RTA) for support. Once they call RTA for support, then your serial # should be in their database that a call was made.
I was told by Yamaha that jetting shouldn't matter, since your jetting will always be different for altitudes.
It really sucks being a consumer... we always seem to get f*cked!
If my bike isn't completely fixed the first time around, then i'm getting rid of it. Having to deal with crap from the dealership, and Yamaha making us waste our time researching this and making sure it gets fixed correctly is total BS!!!
Posted March 26, 2003 - 04:24 PM
He said now that I know about this problem, if the key breaks again due to the bike being too lean then they would NOT service the bike again at no charge.
I brought mine in with the baffle out, airbox cork out, gray wire cut, and jetting altered and it was fixed with no questions asked. No warnings about jetting or customer error. (You should re-jet because it runs much better that way.)
IF you have further problems, take it elsewhere, and don't give that dealer any more business. They probably didn't fix it right anyways.
For what it's worth, I use the electric start:
* To start a cold engine.
* To start a hot engine.
* With the throttle open.
* With the throttle closed.
* On sunny days.
* On cloudy days.
* For the joy of hearing it work.
* To make my riding buddies jealous.
And it's given me NO PROBLEMS and NO SHEARED KEYS since I let a competent dealer fix it.
Posted March 26, 2003 - 04:49 PM
Just a FYI there was no backfire when my bike sheared the key.Hang in there it is worth it.
Posted March 27, 2003 - 06:00 AM
"mandatory Modification WR450F"
serial numbers affected: CJ04W-0000037 to CJ04W-0003669
model types: 5TJ2 and 5TJ4
90280-03001-00 woodruff key
90890-04141-00 flywhell puller
reason: the woodruff key may break (no reason given
only a pic of a single key with an odd stripe,
probably wear, on the brink of dying?)
- disassemble and remove stock key
- reassemble with new key according to the following:
- put Loctite 648 on key and whole crank taper
- place rotor onto crank
- torque rotor nut to 40 Nm (29ftlbs)
- wait 2 minutes
- remove nut
- put Loctite (no specific number given) onto nut and washer
- torque to 65 Nm (47 ftlbs?)
- reinstall engine side case (my assumption: here you
should use the gasket, advisory doesn't say so explicitly)
- and refrain from starting engine for 24h! (very odd)
end of procedure
Posted March 27, 2003 - 10:38 AM
Is this something issued to CA dealers? I have a WR450 bought in CA. Should I call them?
Posted March 27, 2003 - 02:04 PM
Posted March 29, 2003 - 09:49 AM
Looking at Bulletin # M2003-005, it has the corrections that allow the dealer to "paste" the correct procedure in it's manual. Cutting through all the words, Bulletin # M2003-005 simply shows that one needs to remove the nut, put it back on and torque to 47 ft. lbs., remove, and repeat the 47 ft. lbs. torque. I do not see anything that indicates lapping the crank/flywheel or using any Loctite compounds except for the small bolts that attach the starter clutch. I’m not saying these additional steps are not warranted; these steps are not in said bulletin.
Posted March 29, 2003 - 11:27 AM
As of today, we just received Technical Bulletin # M2003-007. The essence of the bulletin is what has been posted before. As dealers, we are to modify all unsold units. Also, contact your Yamaha dealer and make an appointment to have them perform a "90 Code Warranty Request" from the Technical Bulletin cited above, that will be free of charge.
I cannot post the actual bulletin, as I have no way to scan for a PDF file.