munched piston, and cylinder......etc
Posted February 19, 2003 - 12:22 PM
officially: munched piston and cylinder, oil pump, bearings, scored con rod (livable) scored cam, (livable)
hmmmm any suggestions......besides a new 450?
Posted February 19, 2003 - 12:41 PM
Posted February 19, 2003 - 12:48 PM
Posted February 19, 2003 - 01:15 PM
Drain plug abandon ship during a harescramble!!
Wait til I find him!!!!! Traitor!!!
Posted February 19, 2003 - 01:35 PM
Posted February 19, 2003 - 04:12 PM
My vote would be a big bore kit, 450 cams, new rod/rebuilt crank, new oil pump. The safety wire is no longer optional. (I'm going out to 'just do it' right now after reading this post!)
I figure any bike that wanted to live that bad (the damage could have been worse), deserves a second chance. Besides, it isn't a very old bike.
On the other hand, parted-out, it is worth what? $1,500? Maybe $2,000?
Fixed 'economically': $1100 would get you $2,700(?)for the bike: $1600 net towards a new 450.
If my WAG on these values is anywhere close, you are better off parting it out than fixing it 'just enough' to sell or trade it. Leaving you with the choices of trying to find a cheaper way to rebuild it well enough to restore your confidence or just cutting your considerable loss by parting or selling as is and moving up to the 450.
Man, even I am going to lose sleep pondering that one... Anybody got some better guesses on the values?
Posted February 19, 2003 - 04:38 PM
The 450 cam would be sweet.
Weigh your options...
But do as much yourself as you can. If you are unsure, now IS the time to learn.
If you are refering to the main crank bearings, you can always pull the entire top end off and bring the bottom end into the shop where they will split the cases.
Posted February 19, 2003 - 05:30 PM
How do you plan on putting safety wire on the drain plug? Just curious so that the rest of us can maybe prevent this from happening.
The safety wire is no longer optional.
Posted February 19, 2003 - 07:25 PM
We used to do this on our small block chevy header bolts. There are special locking header bolts that do it in a slicker way, but the goal is the same.
Posted February 19, 2003 - 07:25 PM
If you plan to put yours back together, I'd go aftermarket as much as possible. Orig parts can be dramatically more expensive.
Whatever you decide, good luck.
Posted February 20, 2003 - 04:56 AM
It's easy.....put each bolt in a vise then drill a hole just big enough through the head of each bolt. I run the White Bros aluminum skid plates on both my WR and YZ so I have good material to drill a hole to secure the end of the wire to. The only thing you have to be careful of is to ensure that you "Positive" safety the wire so that it hold's tension on the bolt head in the direction of being tightened. If you "Negitive" saftey the bolt then vibration will allow the bold to back off and you could loose oil a little at a time until disaster strikes.
Also, Always use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts.
RM, Sorry to hear of your engine problem...Man that really sucks. Hope your back in the saddle again soon.
Posted February 20, 2003 - 06:17 AM
Posted February 20, 2003 - 07:06 AM
Also, go to your local bearing house for the bearings. Just give them the number stamped on the original bearing and they'll give you the right thing for a lot cheaper. I once bought crank main bearings from Suzuki for an old RM250 and then decided to try a bearing house. Guess what, both bearings were the exact same bearing. Same manufacturer, same stampings, etc. except that the Suzuki part came in a Suzuki box and cost twice as much. I checked a couple other bearings to convince myself and then took the Suzuki bearings back and bought and replaced every bearing in the engine (from the bearing house of course) for the cost of just the crank main bearings from Suzuki. As far as I was concerned I had an entirely new engine...and it never let me down.
Posted February 20, 2003 - 07:30 AM
examination by me found: one very minor "have to really hunt for it" scratch on one cam journal only. The piston is trying to be flat on a side that should be round, same with the cylinder, no heat damage on crank, no heat damage on con rod, journals smooth, wrist pin damaged, rings are history, metal in the oil pump.
Solution: repair to stock, replace wrist pin, all bearings, piston and cylinder, (I will get some pictures of the toasted parts for posting here)replace cam bearings and oil pump. new magnetic drain plug (many thanks to those that offered theirs) with predrilled hole for safety wiring, new bash plate, brake and clutch levers, acerbis barkbusters and guards, 756 dunlops front and rear, new one systems graphics, and YZ time that baby!!!
End of this season I will make a decision about it staying or going. But, I will know it runs and runs well before I sell it to someone. If it blows up again later this season would be a better time for a new bike than now. Or, maybe I will attempt the rebuild next time.
I really tend to agree that if you race its gonna break on occasion. And I will be more prepared next time. The only symptom I had of impending disaster, looking back on it, was the bike got a little stiffer to shift without using the clutch, so pay attention if that happens to you in the future. Pull over and check the levels right then. Dont assume its rider error like I did.
Yamakaze I have never seen or done a drain plug safety wire. If you get bored some time soon, please post a picture of how this is done.
This could have been a lot worse. As it is I will be out and riding by march 1st I hope.
Posted February 20, 2003 - 09:00 AM
Take your old bearing along with you whenever possible. Same goes for seals.
Nice to hear from you, Yamakaze! Hows the racing going?
Posted February 23, 2003 - 01:22 PM
Here are a couple of pics of the frame Drain Bolt, I'll shoot a couple of the Case Bolt the next time I pull one of my bikes out of the trailer....Can't get a good angle from the floor.
Posted February 23, 2003 - 05:34 PM
Posted February 23, 2003 - 08:27 PM