07 WR450 Clutch - Stumped


5 replies to this topic
  • crackjacker

Posted March 08, 2009 - 09:33 PM

#1

Okay guys, I am at my end here. Basically, I have zero clutch action until the last 1/2" to 3/4" of my lever, and it's pretty much all go, or no go. Here is what I've checked and how things are at the moment:

2007 WR450 (Original Clutch/Friction Plates)

1. Clutch cables and pivot points are lubed/greased, clutch pull extremely smooth. With clutch cover off, verified plate tension and correct movement with clutch pull
2. Oil in case is at correct level, clean & good, Yamalube 20w-50
3. Clutch spring bolts all check at 7.2 ft lbs.
4. Clutch plates have 0.000 warp, and zero discoloration
5. Friction plates within 0.002 of specs in book with no significant signs of wear (i'm pretty easy with the clutch)
6. All clutch plates are facing the same direction (rounded side out)

Normally, I figure this stuff out on my own. This one, I'm stumped. As I'm writing this I'm wondering if it's possible my plates are maybe a bit glazed...Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 09, 2009 - 08:21 PM

#2

Okay guys, I am at my end here. Basically, I have zero clutch action until the last 1/2" to 3/4" of my lever, and it's pretty much all go, or no go. Here is what I've checked and how things are at the moment:

2007 WR450 (Original Clutch/Friction Plates)

1. Clutch cables and pivot points are lubed/greased, clutch pull extremely smooth. With clutch cover off, verified plate tension and correct movement with clutch pull
2. Oil in case is at correct level, clean & good, Yamalube 20w-50
3. Clutch spring bolts all check at 7.2 ft lbs.
4. Clutch plates have 0.000 warp, and zero discoloration
5. Friction plates within 0.002 of specs in book with no significant signs of wear (i'm pretty easy with the clutch)
6. All clutch plates are facing the same direction (rounded side out)

Normally, I figure this stuff out on my own. This one, I'm stumped. As I'm writing this I'm wondering if it's possible my plates are maybe a bit glazed...Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!


I'm not sure I understand what the problems is. Are you saying the engagement point is very quick? That sounds normal to me. I have about a 3/4" of lever 'action' before engage/disengage.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted March 09, 2009 - 09:45 PM

#3

have you replaced a clutch lever recently? just because it fits doesn't mean it has the same leverage.

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  • crackjacker

Posted March 10, 2009 - 10:19 AM

#4

hmm, no. My clutch engages at the LAST 1/2"-3/4" when releasing my lever. So, 3/4 of my clutch lever does nothing, and then like I mentioned before, there is very very little transition between fully disengaged and fully engaged. It's basically clutch or no clutch with extremely little in-between. My lever and lower arm both have 3-4mm of free-play. I'm starting to think that even though the friction plates are at recommended thickness, somehow they are still slipping. I might end up just buying a new clutch kit and replacing just to see if it makes a difference. Thanks!

  • crackjacker

Posted March 10, 2009 - 10:26 AM

#5

have you replaced a clutch lever recently? just because it fits doesn't mean it has the same leverage.

Yeah, I replaced it with an MSR about a year and a half ago. This didn't start happening until about 4 weeks ago and up until this last weekend it was somewhat tolerable. This last weekend was flat out retarded.

  • Frostbite

Posted March 10, 2009 - 01:30 PM

#6

Yeah, I replaced it with an MSR about a year and a half ago. This didn't start happening until about 4 weeks ago and up until this last weekend it was somewhat tolerable. This last weekend was flat out retarded.


You replaced it last year, but have you had the clutch out lately for inspection or some other reason? There's a ball bearing that the push rod rides against. If you didn't know it was there, it may have rolled out before reassembly. That would cause a lot of freeplay in your lever.

If the clutch hasn't been apart lately, and the problem just appeared, the bearing wouldn't be the problem.

One possibility is that if you did reassemble last year without the ball, you would have had to really wind out your adjustments to take up the free play. This happened to me on my 400, and the cam that actually contacts the clutch pushrod is turned a lot more than it should be. It's nearly sideways instead of hitting the rod flat on. The tip of the cam eventually wears and you get less and less clutch pull. As you keep adjusting you could probably turn the rod right around.

Take a quick look at the lever on top of the engine that the clutch cable attaches to (not pulling in on the clutch lever). Does it look like it's at a sensible angle to the cable, like 90 degrees, or does it look like it's already turned in quite far towards the end of the cable.




 
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