E-series re-pack



5 replies to this topic
  • Shawbridge Husky

Posted August 08, 2002 - 04:17 AM

#1

Recently re-packed my e-series silencer using stainless steel fine grade wool from Mcmaster-Carr. Made huge difference in sound, the original glass woool was TOTALY burned out, omly about a inch left at both ends. Riding at high RPM is fun again and the bike seems to have better bottom end if that is possible. Highly recommended maintenance item no matter what silencer you run!

  • freestyle111

Posted August 08, 2002 - 04:52 AM

#2

i posted topic about this a few months ago.i thought i found answer to sound problem.too bad steel wool turned to ashes and clogged up space between silencer discs within about a week.does your exhaust stink now?mine smelt kinda weird after i packed with steelwool.

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted August 08, 2002 - 05:11 AM

#3

I've had coarse stainless wool in my FMF muffler for about 5 months and it's still as good as new. I took the muffler apart last month because I was sure it was time to repack because it had been in there for so long. The packing was black, but otherwise it was in good shape, so I just put it back in. No bad smell, no ashes and no clogging. Freestyle, are you sure you got stainless wool? Regular steel wool burns but stainless doesn't.

[ August 08, 2002: Message edited by: Rich in Orlando ]

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  • spazz

Posted August 08, 2002 - 09:04 PM

#4

Dumb question I'm sure but how do you go about re-packing the e-series pro meg muffler. Do you have to drill the old rivots out? Way over do...thanks :)

  • Shawbridge Husky

Posted August 08, 2002 - 11:05 AM

#5

Very easy, go over to a drill press and drill out with a 3/16'' dia bit. The rivet head will come right off, leaving the body of the rivet inside. Make sure you remove all the discs first so as not to damage them. Here is the trick part. Using a large shop vise thread two old 10-24 screws where the plates were. Leave the heads out by about 3/8'' or so so as to have a good grip on them in the vise. Basically the pipe is poining up and the end where the plates were are closest to the top of the vise. This gives you leverage to SLOWLY PATIENTLY pry the end cap off.Please post again if any other questions!

  • wrsm

Posted August 08, 2002 - 11:49 AM

#6

A good trick I do is to punch the centre of the rivet into the can first, then this allows the drill to follow the exact centre of the rivet so the hole stays round.

Use a round punch the same diameter as the shaft of the new rivet.




 
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