KIPS - Top End Info and How To kdx200



66 replies to this topic
  • hi_im_sean

Posted February 25, 2009 - 09:11 PM

#1

this is on a 98 kdx200 motor, this kips info wont apply to much else beside the last generation of kdx, but some info can be apllied to other bikes.

disclaimer: i am not liable for what you do to your bike, or any dmage you cause from info here, and all that fun stuff, this is not a replacement for the manual, go get a real kawi manual damit,

if anyone has anything to add, including the 220 specs, or finds a mistake or misinformation, let me know

i assume you can take your engine apart, if not repeat these steps in reverse, you of course will need to take the tank and seat off, get the intake out of the way, and remove the exhaust or at least the pipe, drain the coolant, remove whatever hoses are neccesaay etc, to get the top end off


Top end info:
for 95+ kdx200
usable compression range: 95-151psi make sure you hold that throttle open
plug: NGK BR8ES
bore/stroke: 66x58mm

the kdx motor is based off an older kx125 design, i found this on the inside of the resonator cover (the once that has "kips" in raised lettering on it)
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kdxs come stock with kawasaki's electrofusion bore coating. it wears quicky, and is inferior to nikasil. if there are any deep sctratches, chips, flaking, worn away or missing plating, then your cylinder needs replating. if you can feel it with your nail, then it probably needs replating. sometime the piston will deposit aluminum on the bore, this can feel like a scratch. you can try to use some strong acid and scotchbrite to remove it. HCL from the pool store:thumbsup: if you have a cylinder replated, run a chase or a bottom tap through all the holes. the cleaning process they use leaves a lot of burs in the aluminum threads as the contaminants leach out. there is enough to screw up the threads on the smaller bolts, and you will get very inaccurate tourque readings.

if it is in good shape, then to clean the bore, use hot soapy water and a scotchbrite pad. this is only to clean the plating, as scotchbrite wont affect it. when you are done cleaning it, inspect the crosshatching for wear, cleaning the cylinder reveals a lot of the crosshatching so always clean it before really inspectiing it. to be sure its completely clean take a clean paper towel with wd40 and wipe the bore, it should still be white, if anything comes off, keep cleaning. if the crosshatching is worn away, or starting to wear away in certain spots, it needs to be replated. if you do a top end with worn crosshatching, the rings will never seat and seal correctly, and you will loose performance and have blow by. you cannot hone electrofusion at all, it will fall apart. it requires a diamond ball hone for nicasil, but if you need to hone a used cylinder to restore crosshatching, then it needs to be replaced anyway, so just dont hone a plated cylinder ever.
this is what a fresh nicasil plating looks like, with good crosshatch
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this is worn the hell out stock electrofusion, notice the electrofusion wearing away around the ports, and no crosshatch to be seen
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a motor that ate some sand... oops
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also be sure to mic the bore for proper specs unless you are absoluely sure it is in good shape. here is the page from the 95+ kdx manual on the specs, sry for the blurryness.

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you also want to clean as much of the carbon and spooge on the power valve areas and where ever else you find it, use a screwdriver, scribe, or whatever to chip away at the stubborn stuff, brakeclean or any good solvent will disolve the spooge. hot soapy water will not. you want it as clean as possible, be careful not to sctratch or gouge anything while chipping away at those carbon deposits. when the kdx powervalve gets excessivly dirty, things will break, shafts can fall into the clutch hub, its not good, so clean it at every top end at a minimum.
dont leave it like this
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if you had some top end damage and suspsct something got in the bottom, you can clean it out by pouring clean premix into the crankcase and rotating the crank, dump and repeat. pour it out through a coffee filter or something to see what you get, this may also reveal a crank seal leak while youre at it. this is of couse assuming youve measured and checked that the bottom end is still good, always measue what you can while the top end is apart. for a kdx200/220 rod big end side clearance is 0.40mm to 0.50mm with 0.70mm service limit, radial is 0.026mm to 0.043mm with a sevice limit of 0.10mm.
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always replace your reeds when you do a top end. its cheap insurance, reeds wear and can/will break. this set went too long and caused some minor, damage, if caught early enough, just the piston ussually needs to be replaced. a bike will run rich, feel flat, and be slow reving when a reed is chipped or broken.
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aslo always replace the wrist pin bearing, dont be cheap:naughty:
head gaskets can not be reused, i dont like to reuse any gaskets that arent reusable, but if they dont get dmaged thats up to you. a whole top end gasket set from cometic is $30. dont reuse your plug, replace it with the correct type. this was a plug with relativly low hours on it, again cheap insurance. this was a fellow TT members 125
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and the resulting damage
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ALWAYS check your ring end gap when replacing rings or you have a new replate and new rings. all you need is a feeler guage. install the ring in the bore without the piston. i use the piston to drive them in sqaurly. if the are not square in the hole, you will get an inacurate measurment. try a thin feeler guage, work your way up until you get to the first one that is too thick to fit. the ring gap will be something between that feeler guage and the one before it.
this page is from the 95+ kdx manual
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  • hi_im_sean

Posted February 25, 2009 - 09:12 PM

#2

Kips: Kawasaki Integrated Power-Valve System

here are the parts that make up a kdx powervalve, the advancer shaft cover is missing from the pic, but everything else is there
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this is the main valve
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you can pull that pin out to separate the 2 peices for cleaning
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subvalves: the sublaves and their shafts are different, and it does matter where they go. for simplicity, i will refer to everything as left and right side as you are sitting on the bike. the subvalves shafts will not work if they are swapped, the teeth on the shaft will be pointing in the wrong direction when you install them, and you will not be able to get the gears on. the subvlaves can be mixed up and the bike will run and nothing will get dmaged, but the powervalve will not work correclty, and you will loose power.
thses are the subvlaves, notice one has a ring/groove in the top of the shaft. that is the right subvalve, the one wilout the grove goes on the left side of the bike.
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these are the subvalve shafts. notice one has a groove with an o-ring in it. that one also goes on the right side of the bike, the one without the o-ring goes on the left side of the bike
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on the top of each subvalve is a timing mark. its a small area where 2 of the gear teeth are cut short. in the pic, it is the 2 teeth point up and to the right
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also notice the timing mark grooves on the subvalve shafts, that correspond to the subvalve timing marks, this end goes into the cylinder first
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drop the subvlves in their holes without the aluminum bushings on top like so, make sure you oil the shaft with 2 stroke oil where the bushings rides and on the locating pin at the bottom of the valve
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install the subvalve shafts, make sure you install them the correct way, oil the shafts as well. this one is on the wrong side, notice the teeth pointing up and not down.
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now comes the tricky part. you must line up the timing marks on the subvlaves with the subvalve shafts. you will have to advace the subvalve, slide in the shaft and see if you got lucky, if not try again until you get it.
the top diagram in the pic
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the actual thing
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now you can put the aluminum bushings back on the subvalves in the cylinder, oil them.

now you can install the main valve, drop it in its slot, tighted the 2 bolts to 52in.lbs. install the little rod with the flange on the left side (right side of the pic)
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now you can install the main shaft. make sure both subvalve shafts are in the cylinder as far as they can go. this is the low rpm, or closed position. oil the seals in the cylnder and the main shaft. install the main valve arm on the main valve, and slide the main shaft through. make sure the dot on the gear lines up with the grove on the subvalve shaft on the right side. install the allen screw and torque to 35in. lbs
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bottom diagram in the pic
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now you can install the gear on the left side, again make sure the dot lines up with the groove. install the nut and torque to 78in. lbs. it is very impotant to have the main shaft in the closed/low rpm position, and the left subvalve shaft in the closed/low rpm position when you tightn the main shaft nut. if you dont do this, the left subvalves will be out of time , since the main shaft and the left side gear are not keyed.

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then install the little detent ball and screw thing, it goes just below the left side main shaft gear, torque to 69in. lbs
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you kips is now assembled and timed correctly, install the main valve cover and resonator cover, torque both to 52in. lbs. install the subvalve shaft covers and torque to 13ft. lbs. install the left side plug hand tight with a screwdriver.

  • hi_im_sean

Posted February 25, 2009 - 09:13 PM

#3

Kips Operation:

Low RPM:
the main valve is down and effectivly retards the exhaust timing, both subvalves are closed which blocks off the 2 smaller exhaust sub ports
High RPM:
the main vlaves lifts up and retacts behind a plate, the port timing is advanced, the subvalves open and allow more exhaust flow by way of the 2 additional subports

main valve down


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main valve up, and tucked away
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subvlave open (when main valve is up), couldnt get a good pic with it closed, the subvalve would just be turned until closed


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Top End Reassembly:

first install a circlip into the piston, the easiest way to do this, is to put it in sideways, then turn it till it pops in its groove. dont scratch anything in the wrist pin bore past the circlip groove, or the psiton itself, be careful. be sure you "clock" the circlip correctly. you want the opening away from the slot they cut to remove it, most manuals also show it pointing down (6 oclock), like i have it in the pic. the preferrened positions are either 6 or 12 oclock. the idea being that the clip wont compress and pop out under its own weight under acceleration and decceleration as the psiton reaches TDC and BDC. also be sure the groove is clean and the clip seats all the way.


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do not squeeze the clip closed to make it earier to install, only compress it enough to get it in the hole and no more. a clip that has lost its tension, or isnt clocked correctly can come out and do something like this, never reuse the circlips
these are from a TT meber's kdx, with a new piston in it.... well it was new


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clean the piston, see all the crap in the ring grooves in the previous pic, it all need to go, use the paper towel and wd40 trick to make sure its clean, wash your hands too if youve been handling dirty engine parts.


always read the directions with the piston you are using, see if they recomend a ring gap different than the manuals, always check this stuff, its no fun to seize a motor


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install the piston on the rod, oil the bearing, wrist pin and pin bore, install the other circlip. spiral the rings on. start by insterting the end of the ring into the groove right next to the locating pin, 90degrees to the piston.


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then spiral it on, hold the first end in the piston with your thumb, while you spread the ring gently apart and push down. if you see the ring making aluminum shavings you are doing something wrong. they should slip into place and not fight you.


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make sure the ring gaps are around the locating pin, sry its fuzzy


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get your cylinder, and insert the piston in the bore while you support the cylinder, while also lining up the cylinder studs. i lighty oil the cylinder to help instalation. some like to bath everything in oil, some like to install the piston and cylinder dry. i have no experiance with this so i cant comment. make sure the rings are lined up with the locating pins again, as you install the cylinder. use your fingers to compress the rings and help guide them in, the cylinder is chamfered at the botom and it should slide right in. dont forget the base gasket.


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install the 4 nuts and torque to 18ft. lbs. install the advancer shaft gear thing. make sure the main shaft is in its low rpm/closed postion, which is CCW when looking at it. line up the pin on the shaft with the hole on the gear thing.


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you will know its lined up when the white paint mark on the main shaft lines up with the dot on the gear. you can barely see some white pain between the teeth in the pic.


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the nut is left hand threads. hold the gear with a pair of pliers when you tighten the nut. if not you can break the advancer shaft or weaken it so it breaks later which can be disastrous. torque it to 74in. lbs. install the advancer cover and torque the bolts to 52 in. lbs. install the cylinder head, torque the nuts in a criss-cross pattern to 18ft.lbs. new plug, 20ft.lbs, reassemble you bike, break it in correctly, and go ride. kdxgarage take whatever you want, just mention my name


how to break in a 2 stroke, brought to you by Chokey
from moto814

1) Assemble the engine properly and torque all fasteners to specs.

2) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

3) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

4) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

5) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

6) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (top of the raidator hot to the touch). Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), take the bike off the stand and put it in gear. Take it for a ride. During this ride you want to keep the engine under a load at all times. Do not coast. Do not let the bike idle. Do not allow the engine to stay at one RPM. Riding on a mild slope is fine for this, as is slightly dragging the rear brake the entire time. Do this for about 15-20 minutes. Then shut the bike off.

7) Let the engine cool completely (at LEAST one hour). You want the engine to be dead-stone cold. Longer is better.

8 ) Re-torque the head and base nuts.

9) Go ride.

The cool-down steps are crucial to this operation. You must let the engine cool completely for the break in process to work properly.

Also, do the warm up procedure I outline here before EVERY ride. Your top ends will last much longer if you do.

  • no1clyde

Posted February 26, 2009 - 04:49 AM

#4

Very nice job sean. I still say your camera works great. The way I see it then it was a 125D model that the motor was bassed on, if so that model would be a close ratio trans that could be put into the KDX if someone wanted to. Also the KDX wide ratio could be put into those 125s if some one wanted to.

I am looking forward to seeing your bike back up and running. After it is running you could take some more rock pics for Jay, lol.

Good work. You should PM Chickenhauler and see if this could be added to the FAQ stickey.

Ed

  • hi_im_sean

Posted February 26, 2009 - 05:04 AM

#5

Very nice job sean. I still say your camera works great. The way I see it then it was a 125D model that the motor was bassed on, if so that model would be a close ratio trans that could be put into the KDX if someone wanted to. Also the KDX wide ratio could be put into those 125s if some one wanted to.

I am looking forward to seeing your bike back up and running. After it is running you could take some more rock pics for Jay, lol.

Good work. You should PM Chickenhauler and see if this could be added to the FAQ stickey.

Ed


already done, should be a sticky here soon

  • KDXGarage

Posted February 26, 2009 - 06:55 AM

#6

AWESOME JOB!!

I'll just put a link on my site over to this thread.

EXCELLENT!!

  • SAPPERS

Posted February 26, 2009 - 08:14 AM

#7

Very Nice, PM chickenhauler and get it up in the FAQs.
Good job.
Well, We got the minis w/ KIPS and this one. Keep 'em goin. Pretty soon we'll have a complete How-to on any Kawi 2 stroke right here on the biggest bike forum in the world.

  • Jeekinz

Posted February 26, 2009 - 08:53 AM

#8

Good job. Your bike is even smiling. :lol: lol

http://i222.photobuc.../topend2024.jpg

  • linustitus

Posted February 27, 2009 - 09:30 AM

#9

Thanks for the info. I'm looking at a 98 KDX220 soon and will be looking into this.

  • hi_im_sean

Posted March 01, 2009 - 08:46 AM

#10

i pmed chickenhauler and he hasnt replied or stickied it, someone sticky this!

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  • ronbuell

Posted March 01, 2009 - 07:48 PM

#11

Awesome work and good pics too.

  • Normski

Posted March 13, 2009 - 12:30 PM

#12

Good wor on the tutorial on KIPS just in the process of doin a top end re-build and was goin to do somthing similar to what you have done but as you have done a good job i might give it a miss:thumbsup:

  • theckeler

Posted April 15, 2009 - 07:39 AM

#13

Nice, I see you included picts of my mess ha

  • hi_im_sean

Posted April 15, 2009 - 07:40 AM

#14

Nice, I see you included picts of my mess ha


yea i hope you dont mind, wante to show everything that can go wrong

  • theckeler

Posted April 15, 2009 - 07:59 PM

#15

yea i hope you dont mind, wante to show everything that can go wrong


Not at all... learned a lot from that big mistake myself ha

  • MaverickAus

Posted April 16, 2009 - 12:19 AM

#16

Nice job

  • kdxphonedude

Posted April 16, 2009 - 11:25 AM

#17

Very nice Sean.
I'm actually looking forward to doing this myself now.:p

  • hi_im_sean

Posted April 16, 2009 - 03:57 PM

#18

Very nice Sean.
I'm actually looking forward to doing this myself now.:p


thanks! thats why its here, hopefully it will be less itimidating to first timers

  • theckeler

Posted April 22, 2009 - 04:20 PM

#19

Tip on those nasty circlips... once you get them in take a socket who will rest on the clips and push it. I didn't do that the first time, and thought they where in fine (why it came out) using my fingers but when I pushed this time I heard a couple clicks as it really settled into place. I also took a slightly smaller socket than the one I previously used, would fit inside the clip and still be on the wrist pin, I pushed on that pretty good to make sure both sides would stay. Even tapped it slightly with a hammer, very slightly to make sure it wouldn't pop.

For inserting the clip once you have it on the rod, it took me quite a while to get it in there but the best method was putting it on a needle nose making sure the open end of the clip was facing into the pin... pushed slightly and made sure that the nose of the pilers went into the hole which you remove the clip.

But overall those clips are just a pain in the butt.

  • crazymxrider_93

Posted April 22, 2009 - 07:17 PM

#20

WOWWWWWWWW NICE JOB SEAN... one question though: how long did it take u to make this thread??? lol. sticky please!! oh and also, that break in procedure would go for a 2004 kx125 too right??? im sending out my cylinder on saturday so when i get it back i will be breaking in the motor.. my motor is pretty much gonna be brand new lol. EVERYTHING (and i mean everything) in the top end is getting replaced, crank and all. :banghead: :banghead:





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